Preload setting

[haakon]

I'm rebuilding my front axle with new parts. I've set the preload to 1.5 kg without the seal in place. I checked again with all the parts mounted and the reading was about 3.3 kg. Should I increase the preload? Or just leave it as it is?

[tweetyduck]

I think under 4kg is ok. There seems t be a lot of confusion on this matter. Theres a range of about 3.5 to 4.5 IIRC.

However the inertia load isn't the pre-load as to get it moving requires the 4kg and to keep it moving is 1kg or something.

If you can move it with your finger it going to be OK as far as i can tell. Too tight and you bust your bearings.

47. Attach a spring balance to ball joint bore and pull

balance to determine effort required to turn

swivel pin housing.

Resistance, once initial inertia has been

overcome, should be 1.16 to 1.46 kg. Adjust by

removing or adding shims to top swivel pin.

[haakon]

Ok, I see. I find it difficult to measure after the initial inertia has been overcome. I've used max load as my measurement, but then this might be wrong then Do you really think the difference is 3 kg?

[tweetyduck]

i'm going to say one of the other much more experienced forum members should answer this.

I would say if you can move it easily with little resistance with your finger then you are OK. If it feels stiff and hard to move by hand you need to shim it out. The pre load will alter after its worn in but i'm not experienced enough to say by how much. I know i set one of mine much to hard and broke a bearing.

However i used the figures i gave you and have had no issues now in 2000+ miles.

If its a constant 3 or 4kg then its too much IMHO but i'm certainly no expert.

see here for some posts on the subject.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=58077&st=0&p=509664&hl=swivels&fromsearch=1entry509664

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=51665&st=0&p=465287&hl=swivels&fromsearch=1entry465287

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42632&st=0&p=399832&hl=swivels&fromsearch=1entry399832

[haakon]

The 3.3 kg was with the seal, cv joint, brake disc etc in place. I just rechecked. The preload with no seal was about 1.5 kg. So that should be correct according to RAVE. I guess my question is if this sounds ok? I understand that 4kg with no seal is too much.

[Maverik]

You should only be setting this with the whole unit together, *lubricated* swival ball wiper seals, attached hubs, discs etc. too be honest its difficult to get it too wrong, the main thing to avoid is too loose in which you will get wheel vibration at certain speeds, too heavy will cause excessive wear to the lower taper roller bearing and maybe damage them, but for this you have to do it well tight, if its a tad too tight with new bits then then thats no so much problem as they will bed down and settle a bit.

Best thing is to get a spring balance, I picked one up on fleebay for peanuts, it at least allows you to set both sides to a similar load. as long as there is no slack in the joint and you can move it with your own strength, feeling a bit of resistance, then you'll be fine.

Remember to give it a good wobble again when you get it back on the vehicle (if its off) when the wheel is on, this gives you more leaverage so will highlight the smalles ammount of play in the swival, if you get it start taking out some shims.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

FWIW

I always build up complete unit, but exclude the seal.

With all oiled etc I always aim for 12 LBS and get them not just spot on but matched is importnant,

11 minimum 13 maximum, then I put the seal in. I use a fishing scale pull jobbie, cheap enough but accuarte.

which goes in the track rod holes

Its also a case of not just the correct poundage but the travel must be smoooth without any steps or jolts

ensure the top 2 x bolts are tight as hell before testing, its a job that does sometimes take time

to do properly, have plenty of shims of varying thickness, thin ones for final fettling, avoid rusty ones as they can settle as the rust can give a 1st off false reading, then loosen in use

Nige