Chrissyg Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Hi all, I've discovered that some of the play in the transmission of my 90 is down to worn drive hubs (or whatever the name is, everywhere lists them as something different!) at the end of the half shafts. The half shafts appear to be in really quite good nick, with the hubs having taken most of the damage, so I'm only looking to replace them and see how the play reduces. On to my question, my Landy is a 1988 reg, however it has Range Rover classic (age unknown) axles on it. My question is, which hubs do I want to be fitting? I know it's 24 spline as I popped the dust cap off and had a count. There just seem to be so many that I really am unsure. I've been pointed to either FRC5988 (out of the parts book for a 90) or FTC859. Could anyone shed any light onto this for me please? Finally, I'm a tad skint this month, but I'm still going to try for OEM, anyone know where to get them from? I've seen ONE original going for £114 LRSeries have FTC859, but not the other. Many thanks guys, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 If they are RRC axles, with separate drive flanges, I *think* that makes them the narrow ones from an 86-92 RRC, i.e. they are metric axles. You can tell if this is the case by seeing how large the bolt heads are holding the flange in place, if they are 17mm they are metric. Next thing to check is the depth of the drive flange, earlier Defender items are much deeper than RRC ones (I think to clear the Alloy wheels). Deep ones are overall 55mm, narrow ones are just 38mm. FRC5806 Thick Defender FTC859 Thin RRC superceded by RUC105200 That's my understanding anyways...... *edit* non-ABS equipped cars had single piece half shafts, so you know yours aren't this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 That's fantastic mate, thank you very much. They are separate drive flanges, I'll go out and have a measure of them and see what I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 No problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 Looks like a 38mm to me. I'll get on and order two RUC105200's. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 First time I've done this, any hints on what sealant to use? I've ordered two new gaskets to go with the new hubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 If you have gaskets and the faces are good, no need for sealant, personally I just squidge some instant gasket round and bolt it up. Maybe slightly messier, but I've never had one leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 Once again, thanks Bowie I'll probably get some instant gasket and put a thin layer between each surface just to seal it properly! Just need some circlip pliers and some instant gasket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potato head Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Gaskets should be ok on their own as long as the mating faces are good as this is the way it was originally assembled. Don't forget to torque them up though - 60-70 Nm from memory ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 I've ordered some instant gasket anyway, some of the info I found on t'internet said apply a fine layer, but everyone on the forums says otherwise if the faces are fine. Oh well. I don't own a torque wrench, but I'll hopefully be able to borrow one from the Uni workshop to torque them up to 65nm as far as per the Haynes manual. Thanks for the replies guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 just before you refit the plastic end caps, warm them in hot water,dry, place a blob of wheel bearing grease or a blob of EP90 axle oil in each & refit, the splines will love you for ever more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 You've been great guys, thanks! Parts arrived today and I set about changing them over. It appears in the last few days my half shafts have worn more than when I last looking (probably due to me having a closer inspection today) and the offside rear is actually really worn at the end near the hub, so I'll be replacing that one, nearside seems ok (due to greater flex in the longer half shaft?) so I won't replace that one. Issue is, I haven't a clue about the part number for that half shaft. Could anyone shed any light? Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Right, I've found out that I've got a very specific rear axle on my 90.. It's from a Range Rover around 1991 with ABS, and it has a 10 spline inner that joins with the diff, and a 24 spline outer that joins with the hub. Part number FTC870, which costs, wait for it. £170!!!!! JUST FOR A HALF SHAFT! I really can't afford this at the moment, does anyone have one of these lying around that I could buy? Or anyone know of anywhere that I could find one cheaper than that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Have a look on ebay or put a wanted advert on the LRO,LRA & in our wanted section, try LR breakers like autocraft & equicar too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 a posible solution you'll have to ask for the spline count of the outer end though. have a browse through this lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I have no idea of specifics, but I know Rogers of Bedford have a couple of dozen old shafts down in their "old mill" workshop store, all in reasonable condition. I'm sure they'd let you have one at a very fair coffee-fund fee. The trouble is that they haven't labelled any of them, so you'd need to have your old shaft in hand to compare, and there's no guarantee that they have that type on the rack. You could try calling them, though: 01234 348469 - speak to Mark on the service extension (press 1 on the automated switchboard). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thank you both for the good advice. I'll have a ring/message the various people you've suggested and report back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 You can fit Disco one piece shafts from a 1993 ish with a seal land and thin drive member. You may get lucky in a scrappy....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Excuse my ignorance, what's a seal land? And do you mean there are two types of one piece driver members, and I need the thinner one? Alternatively, I guess I could get the old shaft welded to the new hub couldn't I? That would solve the play issues and would mean it didn't need a replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Welding might be tricky.... a seal land is just a small wider part to the shaft which is machine smooth for the axle oil seal to run on it.I'll try and find a pic.... Here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Ahh all is clear now. Cheers Bowie Going to wait a few days to see if anyone has an actual part anywhere, if not I'll look down the Disco route, and lastly would be welding (I know a guy near me who is excellent at welding, I'll see if he's up for it). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Might go ahead and order one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250627991420&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_3031wt_648 That's got the seal land, and looks to me to be 10 spline, with the low profile hub. If I go down that route, I'll send the two new hubs back and get two disco half shafts as you say they'll fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 It's never easy with a Land Rover is it? Found a replacement pair, however the new shafts are a different style and about 5mm too long for the hub to attach to the axle. Any ideas around this? Could I make a thick gasket? Or a rubber spacer? Seems like I'll need an elongated hub cap on this side. The other side I didn't replace the shaft as the original was in good condition, but I did test fit and yet again, it's 5mm too long on that side. Wondering if a machine shop could take 5-6mm off the diff end? Anyone had this done before? New hubs have made a fair amount of difference, I'm sure with a new shaft my backlash would be cured! Pics included below. Cheers guys, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Where'd you get the shafts from in the end? They look like they could be Defender wide flange items... They do look in good nick though As for turning the shafts down, I'd never thought of it TBH, but I really can't see why not, assuming there is enough length in the diff end splines. I'd take a touch more than 5mm off though, the circlips are designed to stop the shaft contacting moving parts inside the diff IIRC, so ramming the shafts home and saying "I'll take 5mm off" is probably not the best idea. I'd suspect the amount you want off is the same as the difference in drive flange thickness, 17mm -though you will probably want to measure this first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissyg Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 Where'd you get the shafts from in the end? They look like they could be Defender wide flange items... They do look in good nick though As for turning the shafts down, I'd never thought of it TBH, but I really can't see why not, assuming there is enough length in the diff end splines. I'd take a touch more than 5mm off though, the circlips are designed to stop the shaft contacting moving parts inside the diff IIRC, so ramming the shafts home and saying "I'll take 5mm off" is probably not the best idea. I'd suspect the amount you want off is the same as the difference in drive flange thickness, 17mm -though you will probably want to measure this first Got the shafts from a chap on LRA! These ones are the width all the way along the shaft, that the seal land was on the old one. They fit nice and snug with no movement. The main issue is that the hub won't slide any further back, if it moved toward the diff an extra three or four mm then it would fit. The length of the splines at each end is identical, it's merely a longer shaft by 5mm! A bit infuriating! The splines on these ones look near enough unused, that's why the thought of turning the shafts on a lathe (professionally done) might work. Alternatively I don't suppose I could get a thick square of rubber and cut it to gasket size and make that fit that as a wide gasket? Trying to think of outside the box solutions here! In the mean time I've popped the old shaft back into place with the new hub, and it's made quite a difference to the backlash when setting off! So some progress I guess, but the old splines really are worn and I'd hate for them to fail on me! Cheers Bowie, you've been a great help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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