eastw77 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Hi, I was wondering if it is OK to do a body lift without doing a suspension lift as well? I want to fit some bigger tyres and this seems a cheaper option than doing a suspension lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teslo Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 No problem at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bille Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 No problem at all. Well it really will depend on how big the tires are that you're going to because it can make a difference to gearing, speedometer accuracy and you probably will have to modify your wheel arches....Might have been a good idea to let us in on the secret of what vehicle it is:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete The Biker Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 You will need extended gearbox and steering linkages, brake lines, fuel lines. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastw77 Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Hi, It is a 1988 RRC and the tires I am looking to fit are 32" Simex Extreme Treckers. I have been offered a set cheap and can't afford a suspension lift right now. I will in about 3 months though so it would only be temporary. I have no problem with trimming the arches if need be. thanks, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkrover Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Hi, I was wondering if it is OK to do a body lift without doing a suspension lift as well? I want to fit some bigger tyres and this seems a cheaper option than doing a suspension lift. Yes this is my prefered route, having done this both ways. Two things to watch, any body to chassis/ engine/gearbox earth straps and the rubber gaitor fixed to the top of the transfer box and the transmission tunnel body, ( I made a new one from a lorry innertube),. You will also need to watch the auto gearbox oil cooler solid pipes, maybe drill some holes higher up and cut through to allow the pipes to be clear and not chaff. the radiator top fixing lugs will need to be moved down and redrilled, ( or contact wizard, he has some extension tubes to save moving the brackets). Where are you in the world? I shall be lifting the body on my rrc next week and can take some photos if that helps. Pinkrover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastw77 Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Yes this is my prefered route, having done this both ways. Two things to watch, any body to chassis/ engine/gearbox earth straps and the rubber gaitor fixed to the top of the transfer box and the transmission tunnel body, ( I made a new one from a lorry innertube),. You will also need to watch the auto gearbox oil cooler solid pipes, maybe drill some holes higher up and cut through to allow the pipes to be clear and not chaff. the radiator top fixing lugs will need to be moved down and redrilled, ( or contact wizard, he has some extension tubes to save moving the brackets). Where are you in the world? I shall be lifting the body on my rrc next week and can take some photos if that helps. Hi thanks for the info! A few points there I hadn't considered. I am originally from Northumberland but am living down in New Zealand now. If you could take some pics that would be great. Thanks again, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastw77 Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 You will need extended gearbox and steering linkages, brake lines, fuel lines. Pete Gearbox should be OK as it's an auto. Why would I need to extend the fuel lines? I'm sure they run along the chassis. thanks, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkrover Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Gearbox should be OK as it's an auto. Why would I need to extend the fuel lines? I'm sure they run along the chassis. thanks, Ian Your fuel lines should have enough give to be ok, Auto selector is by cable again should be ok, but you will need to extent the the high/low lever, I used a piece of nylon bar with a hole through which threaded on to the existing shaft and a short piece of allthread screwed in ti the top to take the knob. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkrover Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 hi Ian, I forgot to mention the bumpers which are attached to the chassis, I fitted a winch bumper to the front using the bottom chassis mounting hole mated to the top chassis hole hole and cut a larger plate to extend the mtg to the bottom mounting hole and added extra bolting points. At the back I remade a new bumper from 5mm box section, ( a bit of overkill on thickness, but I just happened to have a piece lying around the right length) good luck, Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastw77 Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 hi Ian, I forgot to mention the bumpers which are attached to the chassis, I fitted a winch bumper to the front using the bottom chassis mounting hole mated to the top chassis hole hole and cut a larger plate to extend the mtg to the bottom mounting hole and added extra bolting points. At the back I remade a new bumper from 5mm box section, ( a bit of overkill on thickness, but I just happened to have a piece lying around the right length) good luck, Les Thanks for all the advice Les. I'm away at sea at the minute so won't be attempting it for a wee while. Lots of time for planning! cheers, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastw77 Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 Still planning on doing this body lift but I'm back at sea now and can't measure anything on my truck. I'm going to make an extension for the transfer case gear lever, can anyone tell me the thread size that the gear lever knob screws onto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 You will need a 2 inch body lift to clear 32 inch tyres. Whether you have to trim the guards will depend on the width of the tyre. Anything wider than 9.5 inches is likely to need a trim. If you are going wider than this you will also need to consider offsetting the rims to maintaining a turning circle and to stop tyres rubbing on the inside of the wheel arches. In such a case you a definitely looking at trimming the guards. I can't remember the thread on the transfer box selector, but you just buy a nut and bolt with the same thread. Then weld the nut onto the head of the bolt. The nut will then screw onto the existing shaft and the knob onto the thread part of the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastw77 Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 Yeah I have made up some lift blocks at 50mm so that should be ok. I missed out on the Simex tyres as they were sold by the time I got home But I'm going to get some new tyres next week. I would like to get 32" tyres as I really need some extra ground clearance under the diffs and I think this is a decent compromise in diff clearance and being so big I snap an axle every time I go out. I am really struggling to decide on what tyres to buy but most of the tyres in a 32" size that are in my price range are 11.5" wide (although they aren't really this wide if you look at the published dimensions), I have been looking into getting -'ve offset wheels but the only ones I can find for sale down in NZ are +12 offset. The Vogue alloys I have on just now are +33 offset and the wheel size is 225-75 R16 which is just short of 9". So if I'm moving the wheel 21 mm further away from the hub and the tyre is 2" wider (50.8mm) it will be roughly 26mm closer to the inner wheel arch. Take away the new wheel offset and they will only be 5mm closer to the inner wheel arch so I'm thinking hopefully I won't loose too much steering lock as I don't think I want that. (if any of that makes any sense at all.... ). Any way back to my last question, I was going to make an extender out of some stainless bar so if anyone could measure that thread for me it would be great.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 Yeah I have made up some lift blocks at 50mm so that should be ok. I missed out on the Simex tyres as they were sold by the time I got home But I'm going to get some new tyres next week. I would like to get 32" tyres as I really need some extra ground clearance under the diffs and I think this is a decent compromise in diff clearance and being so big I snap an axle every time I go out. I am really struggling to decide on what tyres to buy but most of the tyres in a 32" size that are in my price range are 11.5" wide (although they aren't really this wide if you look at the published dimensions), I have been looking into getting -'ve offset wheels but the only ones I can find for sale down in NZ are +12 offset. The Vogue alloys I have on just now are +33 offset and the wheel size is 225-75 R16 which is just short of 9". So if I'm moving the wheel 21 mm further away from the hub and the tyre is 2" wider (50.8mm) it will be roughly 26mm closer to the inner wheel arch. Take away the new wheel offset and they will only be 5mm closer to the inner wheel arch so I'm thinking hopefully I won't loose too much steering lock as I don't think I want that. (if any of that makes any sense at all.... ). Any way back to my last question, I was going to make an extender out of some stainless bar so if anyone could measure that thread for me it would be great.... 235/85/16 is a good size tyre (32inch) that will fit in on standard rims and a 2 inch body lift. It is a reasonably common size. It sounds like you need to put a block under your right pedal also if you are breaking an axle every time you go out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastw77 Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 235/85/16 is a good size tyre (32inch) that will fit in on standard rims and a 2 inch body lift. It is a reasonably common size. It sounds like you need to put a block under your right pedal also if you are breaking an axle every time you go out. I have never broken a axle! I just meant that I thought 32" was a good compromise between getting some more diff clearance and fitting 35" tyres on standard RR 10 spline axles.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastw77 Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 OK well I've just about made my mind up to go with either a 235/85 R16 or a 265/75 R16 tyre and a 2" body lift. Another thing I need to know though is how long the bolts need to be for the body mounts? Obviously 50mm longer than the originals but being on a floating prison in the Gulf of Mexico I can't measure the old ones and have access to a store full of shiny new ones..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teslo Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 I have never broken a axle! I just meant that I thought 32" was a good compromise between getting some more diff clearance and fitting 35" tyres on standard RR 10 spline axles.... I was running 34" Jungle Trekkers on 10 spline shafts for couple of years without a problem. I think all depends on driving style. As for bolt lenghts, 6 inches is far enough (for 2" bodylift) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Independent tests have shown that 10 spline axles are just as strong, if not stronger than 24 spline. 24 spline are slightly thicker but they used lower quality steel in them. It is just that if you want to go for aftermarket HD axles 24 spline are easier to find that 10 spline ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticbadger Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 I've run 32" tyres on a disco before with no lift, just plenty of wheel arch trimming required. I fitted a 40mm body lift to my RRC and other than the spacers and body mount bolts I used; spacer tubes for the radiator mounts, extended seat belt anchors and that was it. No changes to brake lines, fuel lines, transmission cooler or shifters. I had a front winch bumper which looked fine and I left the rear bumper off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkrover Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 quick picture of mine with 2" body lift to fit 305 x 70 x 16, ( 33x12.5x16) goodyear mtr , the front arches needed trimming but the rears did not, though I will have to put the extended arches for the MOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landybehr Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Mine has a 30mm lift. Some details to be seen here: http://landypedia.de/index.php/Umbauten_RangeRover-Classic_Bodylift That amount of lift makes it possible to "lift" the bumpers as well, therefore the "original" appearance of the RRC is kept. Furthermore there is no problem at all with the steering linkage in the engine bay or fuel filler tube or t-case shifter. The lift if backed-up with a H/D Spring set and after trimming of the wheel arches 255/85-16 wheels (rim offset +8mm) fit ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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