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Winch woes!


I.B.ASH

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Hey

I was fortunate enough to pick up a Warn M8000 for free! It was owned by the company I worked for, but they said it had stopped working and were going to throw it out. Anyway, I rigged it up to my battery and it went first time, no worries, so Im thinking GREAT, a free working winch! 4 months later I finally bought a winch bumper, fitted it up, ready...thumb on the trigger...NOTHING. For a very short time there was some clicking, then it kicked into life, then nothing, it kicked in a few times, but now I cant get anything out of it, no clicks/buzzes/knocks - nothing. I just bought a new motor as the copper inside had corroded, but the new one has made no difference at all, still no noise, no clicks, nothing. Any suggestions? Is it a new solenoid that Im needing (I thought it would click if it was broken?).

Thanks for any advice ;)

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If you apply power to the motor direct you will find out whether that is OK. If it is then I would suspect the solenoid. In my experience, solenoids can sometimes just give up through lack of use (moisture ingress)

The motor terminals are A, F1 & F2. A has a +ve cable from the battery, and F1 or F2 is connected via the solenoids depending on direction of rotation.

The -ve is taken through the casing, there's a threaded hole in the side of the motor body.

Hope this helps.

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That doesn't sound right...

My understanding is:

To test the motor:

+ve goes to either F1 or F2 depending on which way you want it to run, connect the other terminal to A with a spare jump lead, and the case to the -ve on the battery.

Kevin

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indeed, there's even a circuit diagram in the handbook: http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/images/58/36138-D4.pdf

Connecting +ve battery to the A terminal and the -ve to the case will likely result in a hot winch motor that doesn't go round at all, for a while at least, inevitably followed by lump of metal which was formerly identified as a winch motor.

Kevin

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Warn Motor Testing Procedure

If you find yourself in a situation where your winch is clicking but it is not working, you may have a motor problem....or you may have a solenoid problem. The following procedure, from Warn, will help you determine the status of your winch motor.

1. Put the winch in freespool.

2. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached).

3. Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor.

4. Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be "A", "F1" and "F2". Run a small jumper wire (5"-6" dead lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from "A" to "F1" and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to "F2". The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.

5. Next, place the jumper wire from "A" to "F2" and put power from the battery to "F1". The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time.

If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good.

Source

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Cheers for the replys. Like I said I bought a new motor as the copper contacts had corroded and broken, I haven't tested the new motor in the way suggested above, but to be honest its new, so I wont bother, I ordered a new solenoid last night so Im keeping fingers crossed that is the problem, if not that, then may be its the trigger?

Cheers for the replys so far! ;)

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I ordered a new solenoid last night so Im keeping fingers crossed that is the problem, if not that, then may be its the trigger?

Could the cable to the trigger be damaged? Surely a bit of probing with a multimeter would be more cost effective than just thowing money at new parts in the hope of a fix.

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No noticeable damage to the trigger or cable. I agree about the whole throwing money at things bit, but the motor was damage well and truly, so a new motor was in order anyway, and still with that there is no life, so I figured it must be the solenoid? The winch had apparently been sitting for 2 or 3 years with no use. Im a bit hopeless with electrics, how would I test the trigger itself? (I did pick up a sealed solenoid and motor very very cheep, Im not just throwing cash at problems!).

Cheers.

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Hello Jack. Cheers, I wont forget if I ever decide to sell! I don't have the roof or sides on yet as Im still looking for a rear door, but im in the process of sanding them down ready for a re-paint, sticking with the NATO matt-black. Did you manage to get the new skidoo out in the recent snow??? :D

Checked the trigger, its not that so it must be the solenoid.

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yeh it does sound like the solenoid. you know the rest is good, and the wander lead is easy tested as above with a multimeter.

glad your getting somewhere with the pannels. a door will pop up somewhere.

not really had the ski-doo out yet on the hill, just giving it the beans in our fields, :P its very quick :D lifts the front skis right off the ground on full throttle. does about 55mph so far on soft snow. hard frozen snow itl go like hell less resistence. hopefully get right out the tops, find something to chase, up2 and beyond 3000ft this week given no fog.

good luck with the winch.

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