mikec Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Hi I need to do the radius arm bushes on the p38 are these a nuisance to do? Apparently it needs a special tool and a press?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Hi I need to do the radius arm bushes on the p38 are these a nuisance to do? Apparently it needs a special tool and a press?? The bushes for a Classic RR have a steel outer, which means they fit the hole 'exactly', and rust in place. The bushes for a 38A have a plastic outer, and out of the packet are too big for the hole. The special tool has an internal taper that starts large enough to take the relaxed bush, and finishes small enough so the issuing bush will fit in the hole in the radius arm. The associated mandrel has to be just the correct diameter, so that it will bear against the outer when relaxed, while also being no larger than the compressed size. Obviously you cannot push against the protruding centre sleeve. I think I've read of people grinding a taper on the plastic outer to give a lead into the hole, and pushing the bush in without the compressing sleeve, but I don't recall any detail. People may also have tried compressing the bush with an exhaust clamp or two, then pushing the bush in. It's been a while but I don't think the Classic and 38A radius arms have the same size bush hole, so I don't think that downgrading to Classic bushes will work. Dingocroft will sell you a tool, which also gives you a price to beat if you have to pay someone to do the job after you have taken the arms off, or pay someone to make a sleeve with the appropriate taper. Plastic bush makers will sell you their second rate product, but at a price, that will be repeated 'often'. At least with LR bushes fitted the vehicle is good to go for the best part of 100k miles. I called in a favour, had a compressing sleeve made, used 'bits I had around' to create a mandrel, and built a press. Oh, you may also need a support sleeve for the other side of the arm, for the old bush to fall into, and you also need some means of centering the new bush over the hole. If the old bush is still in-situ, then a long shaft or length of studding through the centres of both old and new bushes will work. All I don't have to hand is the dimensions, but it's breakfast time. Examine your resources :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 They are a PITA to fit, unfortunately. As Daivd said, ideally you'd want the LR tool or something similar made up. I used a grinder once to taper the plastic, worked more or less, but I did ruin 1 bush before getting all 4 fitted. Ever since, I use 2-piece poly-urethane bushes. Although I prefer genuine, the hassle of pressing them in justifies going the polybush way for this particular application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Ok I'll just have them done, thought someone might have had a good diy method no worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul goldring Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I replaced mine a few months ago Used sander to taper plastic, Used 3 jubilee clips to compress plastic bush, Then pressed in using a bench press with socket on top of bush, but you do need 4 hands, Done all 4 in just over half hour, Good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 Can anyone see a problem removing both arms together?was thinking to of just chucking the wheels? Obviously I won't be movin the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Can anyone see a problem removing both arms together?was thinking to of just chucking the wheels? Obviously I won't be movin the car! If you remove both, the axle will be able to move a bit, but the panhard and front prop will keep it more or less in place. A jack under the diffnose can help to align the axle when putting back the arms. Be sure to chuck both wheels, front and rear, to minimize movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vougese39 Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 stick with genuine bushs had a customer very recently who had had polybush fitted the car drove dreadfully and suffered tramlining and general lack of staright line stability when all the suspension bushs were loosened and retesed it drove fine i replaced with gen on the whole vehicle and it rides really nice supprised me as i have always pushed the polybush as the upgrade to do! dont take both arms out at a time as the air bag could pop due to excess axle movement! if you are doing the radius arms do the panhard rod bushs at the same time you will be amazed of the improvement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 You can take out old bushes by destrcutive means, drill them, cut them etc to remove the rubber then assemble a hacksaw through the middle of th outer sleeva nd cut a slot into it. A bit of hamering will crack it in tow and then it slides out. If you a bit of a firebrand then you can burn the out with a blowtorch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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