HighlandRover Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Evening, Whislt on a journey today the Hill descent, Traction Control and ABS warning lights came on aslo known as the "Three Amigos". I stopped to check for any visible damage to the sensor cables or anything like that so carried on. Around 20 miles later a knocking sound could be heard from the drivers front wheel so I automatically thought Hub Bearing which I have read is a common problem on D2's. I continued until the knocking noise turned into the brakes rubbing excessively, started to pull to the right and vibrate quite violently. I pulled over to find the the whole front hub assembly was absolutely roasting and was smoking. I removed the front wheel and there was a small amount of play in the hub (which would be greatly exagerated with 35" tyres attached to it) and the CV joint was knocking slightly (Ashcroft CV Joint). Ive read that the bearing is non servicable so a whole new Hub assembly needs to be purchased, Ive seen a Hub and sensor assembly for around £180 on foundry 4x4 http://www.foundry4x4.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=TAY100060&cat=3 but may go down the genuine Land Rover part road for bit more. Whats peoples thoughts on the cause of the fault and recomended suppliers of hubs or should I just bite the bullet and go Genuine? The joys of a Land rover ay? Cheers Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie69 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 I bought mine from MM4x4 18 months and 10000+ miles ago and have not had any problems since Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy 1 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I'd change the Cv at the same time, being a mechanic it's easier to change them both now rather than the CV in a few months time. CV kit is £77 and Hub is £186,I got mine from Paddocks, cv kit 13 with all seals and clips and the Front half shaft seal all in the Kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinK Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I think it depends on how long you plan to keep the car. Some non-LR parts (such as fuel pumps) are known to be false economy. I used the OEM TAY100060. Failed at 94,000 miles (both front hubs) - it was £500 to replace both (from my local Indie). Only 1 rear hub has failed to date. If I were buying a non-LR, I would want to be sure the replacement part was good quality (i.e. not carp bearings!)...unless I was only planning to keep the car for a short while. Interestingly I just raised a thread about this elsewhere... Just a thought - now the cars are getting older, lots of people are losing air suspension for coil springs, and removing ACE (especially where the car is already on coil springs)... Making the car more simple and easier to maintain at low cost. Forking the best part of £500 for 2 new bubs is pretty painful (when the car's only worth £3k). I'm already de-ACE'ed and on coil springs. Would it be easy/feasable to use a hub from a different model of Land Rover? Even if this means losing the ABS/TC/HDC (and maybe installing a "normal" Diff Lock from Ashcroft to make-up for the loss of TC/HDC?). Dumping expensive hubs (and losing the troublesome "thee amigos" for ever), and gaining manual diff lock seems like a decent trade-off to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pecker Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I think it depends on how long you plan to keep the car. Some non-LR parts (such as fuel pumps) are known to be false economy. I used the OEM TAY100060. Failed at 94,000 miles (both front hubs) - it was £500 to replace both (from my local Indie). Only 1 rear hub has failed to date. If I were buying a non-LR, I would want to be sure the replacement part was good quality (i.e. not carp bearings!)...unless I was only planning to keep the car for a short while. Interestingly I just raised a thread about this elsewhere... Just a thought - now the cars are getting older, lots of people are losing air suspension for coil springs, and removing ACE (especially where the car is already on coil springs)... Making the car more simple and easier to maintain at low cost. Forking the best part of £500 for 2 new bubs is pretty painful (when the car's only worth £3k). I'm already de-ACE'ed and on coil springs. Would it be easy/feasable to use a hub from a different model of Land Rover? Even if this means losing the ABS/TC/HDC (and maybe installing a "normal" Diff Lock from Ashcroft to make-up for the loss of TC/HDC?). Dumping expensive hubs (and losing the troublesome "thee amigos" for ever), and gaining manual diff lock seems like a decent trade-off to me. Interesting thought that, do you know what the out come was ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinK Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Interesting thought that, do you know what the out come was ? The general concensus is that removing air springs for coil springs, removing ACE, or EGR blanking are things the insurance companies wouldn't be too bothered about...but altering your braking/safety facilities would be a big no-no. However I am suprised that no-one appears to have done this yet. There'a a lot of common parts between various Land Rover models...I would have thought someone would have tried a Disco1 or Defender hub at some time...? I am guessing there's more to change than just the hub (the disks would definitely be different, so maybe the calipers as well). I am sure someone who is using a D2 off-road-only will try it at some point - maybe fit a whole axle assembly from a D1/Defender, and throw away the SLABS computer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinK Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 HighlandRover - back to the original post, have a look at this - in case you are considering the job yourself - it'll give you some ideas on hub removal http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fronthub.html I used Whites Autos ( http://www.whitesautoservices.com/ for the things I can't/don't want to take on myself. The original hubs failed at 94000 miles, and the replacements are still OK at 175,000 miles. I do expect them to start playing-up in the next 20000 miles! They did both front hubs, supply & fit (original LR parts) for £500 inc all labout and vat. I thought that was pretty good, as you're looking at ~£400 just for the genuine hubs... I did try a LR independant in Invermess a while back for another job (ACE Removal) and I was less than impressed with their service... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighlandRover Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 HighlandRover - back to the original post, have a look at this - in case you are considering the job yourself - it'll give you some ideas on hub removal http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fronthub.html I used Whites Autos ( http://www.whitesautoservices.com/ for the things I can't/don't want to take on myself. The original hubs failed at 94000 miles, and the replacements are still OK at 175,000 miles. I do expect them to start playing-up in the next 20000 miles! They did both front hubs, supply & fit (original LR parts) for £500 inc all labout and vat. I thought that was pretty good, as you're looking at ~£400 just for the genuine hubs... I did try a LR independant in Invermess a while back for another job (ACE Removal) and I was less than impressed with their service... Cheers for the info guys. Ive purchased a new hub and the truck is sitting in the barn on axle stands awaiting the new hub. Martin K - Ive read that write up already, it explains the job perfectly. Unfortunately the bank balance will only allow for the single hub change at the moment. Going with the "If it aint broke don't fix it" mentallity right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighlandRover Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 Cheers for the info guys. Ive purchased a new hub and the truck is sitting in the barn on axle stands awaiting the new hub. Martin K - Ive read that write up already, it explains the job perfectly. Unfortunately the bank balance will only allow for the single hub change at the moment. Going with the "If it aint broke don't fix it" mentallity right now A wee update, I fitted the new hub and brake pads today with no problems. The car now drives with no vibrations what so ever Only problem now is that the three warning lights are still illuminated TC,Hill descent and ABS. Ive being reading up on this, some sites say that if the problem has been resolved then the lights will turn off after driving at 10mph or more for ten seconds. Ive also read that the faults need to be read and cleared of the ECU. Im going to head down to the local Landy garage in the morn to see if they can stick the fault reader on and see what the issue is? Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinhead Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 The faults need to be cleared they will not clear themselves just because you have cured the fault Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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