I.B.ASH Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Hello. Whilst driving the yesterday, I was shifting into 3rd when all of a sudden my clutch peddle went completely wobbly! There is no resistance to it at all. I was not far from a town so I thought I would shift through the gears whilst trying to time it. Anyway, I had not driven without a clutch before, and my timing was carp! Which unfortunately lead onto the next problem; So I shifting , without the clutch, coming up to a junction going down through the gears, Im getting a bit panicked (and very pi**ed off) when just like the clutch peddle my gear stick just goes totally wobbly (I was being forceful), just wobbling around all over the place! So Iv got a wobbly clutch peddle and a wobbly gear stick, I cant engage any gears what so ever (fortunately the landy is in neutral...Im assuming as it rolls freely ). So I got out recovery and got towed to my garage. Before this I was having no problems with shifting through the gears at all, 3rd has always been a bit stiff, but it has been like that since I bought it almost a year ago. I have serviced it regularly and the oils have always been clean, like I said there was no warning, one moment I was happly driving along (I may even have been singing along in the car! ), the next moment no clutch! And so on. Im just wondering if you guys have a prognosis of what you think could have happened, and perhaps an idea of how much you prognosis would cost to fix (thats the worrying part! (my garage is cheep on labor, bonus). Cheers for any impute Ash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve King Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Could be the master cylinder. Is there any fluid dripping down the clutch pedal? Something similar happened to me, but there was no doubt as to what occurred as the seals on the master cylinder had failed big time and I was sitting in a pool of hydraulic fluid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Hello. Whilst driving the yesterday, I was shifting into 3rd when all of a sudden my clutch peddle went completely wobbly! There is no resistance to it at all. I was not far from a town so I thought I would shift through the gears whilst trying to time it. Anyway, I had not driven without a clutch before, and my timing was carp! Which unfortunately lead onto the next problem; So I shifting , without the clutch, coming up to a junction going down through the gears, Im getting a bit panicked (and very pi**ed off) when just like the clutch peddle my gear stick just goes totally wobbly (I was being forceful), just wobbling around all over the place! So Iv got a wobbly clutch peddle and a wobbly gear stick, I cant engage any gears what so ever (fortunately the landy is in neutral...Im assuming as it rolls freely ). So I got out recovery and got towed to my garage. Before this I was having no problems with shifting through the gears at all, 3rd has always been a bit stiff, but it has been like that since I bought it almost a year ago. I have serviced it regularly and the oils have always been clean, like I said there was no warning, one moment I was happly driving along (I may even have been singing along in the car! ), the next moment no clutch! And so on. Im just wondering if you guys have a prognosis of what you think could have happened, and perhaps an idea of how much you prognosis would cost to fix (thats the worrying part! (my garage is cheep on labor, bonus). Cheers for any impute Ash Broke the gear selector on my 110, could move gear stick but just stayed in same gear. Was in France at time and local garage fixed it for £50! Have also had master cylinder suddenly fail (clutch goes straight to floor with no resistance) and then start working again? Changed it anyway at first opportunity. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Hey, no fluid dripping that I have seen, and I had a good look. Yeah Mark, sounds the same, it totally went, came back a wee bit, but I only had an inch or so of peddle working, then went completely I think I will be living in hope that it gets fixed for £50 though! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 perhaps the pushrod has broken through the operating fork, does the pedal move up/down or is it jammed down ? & the gearlever there's a cup at the bottom end which is secured by a grubscrew could be this screw has worked loose, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 It is likely that either your Master or Slave cylinder has let go the internal seal could have given out but the dust cover is keeping in the fluid, or its already gone onto the floor. check your fluid level and see if there is any left. You Should replace both cylinders as most people will tell you that if you only change one the other one will only let go... As for your gear selector it is likely that the ball joint at the bottom has broken off with the force, this is a really easy fix (if it is just that) replace it with a new/previously enjoyed one you can pick one up from a scrap yard/ebay for a few pounds easiest way to check this is to lift up the gaiter you should be able to see the top of the gear box and the gear selector top. It is probably that it is broken below the mounting bracket this is removed by four bolts. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Yeah Western, the pedal is moving up and down, the recovery guy said the same thing about the pushrod, is that a big/expensive job to fix? Im not so sure about the screw coming loose, as the gearlever was the same as it has always been, it just seemed to go loose/wobbly all of a sudden, I think I have broken something there as I was forcing it. Cheers Jason, that could be likely with the dust cover holding the fluid back, as a little fluid had gone, but it was only noticeable once I removed the cap to check the level. Fingers crossed for the gearlever being an easy fix. The guy who is working on the landy is a good bloke, plus its been a hobby of his doing up old landys so Im not worried about being stitched up or anything, the main worry is the cost of the fix, but so long as the gear box is sound it shouldn't be too bad Im guessing? Having said that I don't know how hard/easy it is to do any of the fixes mentioned above Cheers a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 if it's a busted operating fork, it can be changed without total removal of engine or gearbox, just shift the gearbox back so there;s a gap to work through, did my last clutch that way, there's a thread in the tech archive click here to read it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Cheers for that western, I recon thats what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Clutch pedal usually goes solid if the fork has punched through. 300Tdi clutch pedal will saty down when pressed, so has to be hooked up (it 'goes over' the return spring). 200TDi is normal and will return from the floor on the spring, but will still go solid on a second press of the pedal. On a rare occasion the guts of the slave will go into the bell housing and the pedal will always be floppy. In this scenario the fluid will immediately drain out of the master and come out of the drain plug. Check the master cylinder reservoir for fluid and top it up if necessary. Repeated pressing of the pedal may well restore clutch action for at least a short time - where any leaks (and the location of them), will tell you the problem. If no leaks, then clamp the flexible part of the clutch pipe with a brake pipe clamp or the careful use of mole grips, then press the pedal. If the pedal is solid, then the master and pedal assembly are fine, so slave, fork, or clutch itself is the problem. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MUDisGood Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 depending on what gear box u have this is, but on the LT77 gear box the clutch throw out arm (release arm) pivots on a stud with a ball and socket type assembely, it is verry common on older vehicles for the ball to work its way through the socket end pressed into the release arm. this will cause the clutch peddle to stay down with no fluid leaks and when it goes it goes instantly! if this is the case a cheap part to replace but when u do if u do, get ur garage to weld a small strip of steel on the back of the socket on the release arm to strengthen it and prevent it happening again. as for the gear lever, i did exactly the same as u when this happened to me, if it is the early LT77 box the gear lever assembly pivots and selector bars, sit in a crappy bit of cast ally on top of the box. this is NOT a strong bit of cast and i snapped mine in two. the gear lever stays attached and goes floppy, i think mine was already cracked though as like u, certain gears were already difficult to select. simple way to find out is to remove the rubber gaiter from the turret that the two gear sticks go through and slide it up the shafts and shine a torch in, u will soon see if this is the case or not. again u can pick up a second hand one cheap enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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