Jump to content

Defender/Disco/Freelander wing repeater lamps


Maverik

Recommended Posts

I've just purchased some of these XGB100310L My link As I've got the MOT looming and its needs some fitting to pass... I presumed they would be a NAS type plug... silly really it being a Land Rover and all. rather than butchering the bulb housing I wondered if anyone know what kind of plug fitting is needed for the lamps, it looks very similar to a NAS style connector, but the pins are pins as apposed to flat blades... My link

Bulb holder close up here My link

Cheers

Mav

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The connector for this type of Side Repeater is an AMP/Tyco (now TE Connectivity) 2-way Sealed MQS (Micro Quadlok System) connector -

th_C0012SideRepeater.jpg

Some LR vehicles use the fully-shrouded Black connector, some use the Grey half-shrouded connector but, AFAIK, they are interchangeable.

Sealed 2-way MQS Connectors can be bought from a BMW or a VAG Dealer, with the terminals and seals supplied separately or as a 'Repair Wire', which is a short length of cable with a terminal and seal pre-crimped onto it.

I've got a note of the BMW and VAG part numbers somewhere, but they're quite expensive from them.

Simtek sell the Black fully-shrouded connector -

2 way MQS female connector - £4.20 + postage (each)

1094_1570578.jpg

Or...

They're available on eBay for £5.95 + postage (each)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110680880690

$(KGrHqN,!hcE2hsqQRTfBNvFl93IM!~~0_12.JPG

Or...

I can supply them to you, brand new (as in the above pics), with terminals and seals to suit 0.75mm² cable, for £3.00 each + postage, PM me if you're interested.

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.lrseries....ER-HARNESS.html

might work with the lights you have, bulb holder id push in & twist lock/unlock

Ok a little update, I ordered some plugs from PaulMc - just in case! glad I did because STC966 does not fit these indicator leses.

You can see the difference in the pic, the one on the right is fitting from STC966 the fitting on the left is what goes into the lense.

post-20087-0-74319100-1315987301_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As promised to 'Maverik', here are some pictures and info on crimping the terminals and assembling Sealed MQS connectors.

(the pictures are thumbnail links to the fullsize pictures in my Photobucket account and should open fullsize in a new browser window/tab)

Here's a couple of pics - showing the top and bottom of a side repeater connector cut from an old loom -

th_DSC01667.jpg . th_DSC01666.jpg

1. Dismantling a connector

(you shouldn't need to do this, but it makes the terminal retainers easier to see)

Pointing to - The locking tab that holds the inner part to the outer shell -

th_DSC01668.jpg . th_DSC01669.jpg

Inner part removed, sliding terminal lock opened -

th_DSC01670.jpg . th_DSC01671.jpg

Pointing to - The terminal locking/release tabs, which are pressed through the 'windows', to release the terminals from the connector.

The bottom one is uncovered by the sliding terminal lock, the top one can now be accessed through the window in the sliding terminal lock -

th_DSC01672.jpg . th_DSC01673.jpg

Terminals removed -

th_DSC01674.jpg . th_DSC01675.jpg . th_DSC01676.jpg

2. Assembly

Inserting terminals (note terminal orientation in respect to connector shell) -

(you don't need the inner part and outer shell dismantled to do this, but I've pictured them like this for clarity)

th_DSC01677.jpg . th_DSC01678.jpg

(shown with connector shell assembled to inner part - this is how you would do it on a new connector)

th_DSC01680.jpg . th_DSC01681.jpg

Sliding terminal lock 'open' -

th_DSC01682.jpg

Sliding terminal lock 'closed' - terminals now locked into connector -

th_DSC01683.jpg

Sliding terminal lock viewed from above - showing how it covers the terminal locking/release tabs -

th_DSC01684.jpg

3. Crimping the terminals

You can see from the pictures above, the orientation of the wire seal and that the 'neck' of the seal should be crimped under the insulation grip part of the terminal's crimps.

Crimping of the wire's conductor needs to be done carefully, with a suitable crimping tool.

AMP/Tyco's crimp tools and dies are silly money, but a good job can be done with a hand crimper for UNINSULATED terminals (NOT the type for the Red, Blue and Yellow pre-insulated type)

I use one of these Hozan tools from Eastern Beaver -

http://www.easternbe...ools/tools.html

hozan_full.jpg

hozan-1.jpg . hozan-2.jpg

But a perfectly acceptable job can be done with crimp tools such as these from VWP (and all the usual suspects) -

D1

d1.jpg

MP71

mp71.jpg

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy