The Badger Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 Ok, so I need to change my head gasket, is there anything I should watch out for when doing this, any things to avid, better ways then just the more obvious route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 Make sure the heads flat before refitting. Make sure all the old gasket is removed from head and block.. If the head is flat then it should take a day to to the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 to make sure the head is flat get something that you KNOW is also flat, i.e. the edge of a steel rule, go to a darker corner of your workshop, put the steel rule on the surface of the head and shine a light behind it, there should be no irregularity of the amount of light coming through as you run the torch up along the ruler. do this in both directions and also in more than 1 location in each direction. i would do diagonals aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howitzer Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 I use a 3 thou feeler along a straight edge, pop the feeler under the straight edge and if you feel resistance, then you know the surface is less than 3thou out of line. I do this lengthways, then diaganolly. Dave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard1978 Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 if you take the thermostat housing off, make sure that you refit it before fitting the head back on or it is a PITA to fit back on in situ.. yes, i did that once. and the coolant hose which is bolted up to the head by the bulkhead needs to be put on whilst head can move and the two long head bolts at the back can be cable tied together when you remove/refit the head. also check dowels. also make sure the push rods sit properly in the cups or you will bend one or more when tightening down the rockers. bolts can be re-used but it is up to you. it is a fairly straightforward job though. if you use a metal gasket, you must be almost clinically clean on both surfaces before you even offer it up to the block. if it is a britpart dont use it, get an elring one if you use fibre type gasket. most likely it will be a 3 hole thickness gasket. might be worth checking the radiator core and flushing completely forward and reverse flush to get all the carp out too as this may well have duffed in your gasket in the first place. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 (edited) I just replaced the head on my TGV, apart from there being different sized head bolts and torque specs, it's the same as 300Tdi. Edit: In case you are removing them, the injector seating washers are a different thickness and design too, though M&D say you can use the tdi ones. I'm sure you know the HG itself is different. Be *very* careful removing the glowplugs, especially if you've not had them out before. I snapped one flush in the old head. If you don't find an obvious reason for head problems, get it crack tested. Mine was blowing coolant into the intake port of #1. Not a new failure, Tdis sometimes do the same thing. Edited November 26, 2011 by TSD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 Ok, thanks, tomorrow Im gonna re-fit a new clutch before the snow comes... Then I can drive it to a warm garage and do the head! Otherwise, its a tractor tow to the garage and I have already taken my hand brake off. opps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinfourth Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Be *very* careful removing the glowplugs, especially if you've not had them out before. I snapped one flush in the old head. Been there done that got the t-shirt and the t-shirt is firmly stuck hence i am also needing to shout off with its head. So rather then start a new thread i have a few questions How do i identify which gasket i need before i remove the head as i would like to get it done this weekend so want the right gasket before i start? Anything else worth doing while the head is off as everything works fine at the moment. Also 100% certainty of snow while the head is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Find a picture of a tdi head gasket, so you know where the indicator panel is. It hangs out of the side of the head above #3. The number of holes identifies the gasket required. I had a bear of a job getting the remains of the plug out. Welding a nut on the top just removed a few mm more metal. LH drills resulted in a scary big hole , with no sign of movement from the remains of the plug. In the end, I let a local engineering shop dig the remains out for me. Lucky, as it turned out, as the cost of that plus the crack test was less than the cost of the TGV head gasket I would have wasted If you're keen, you might take the opportunity to lap the valves and replace the stem seals while it's off, two of my stem seals were free floating up the valve stem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinfourth Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 For the crack test was that die penertration test or a pressure test? I should be able to drill out the glowplug no problems hopefully Didn't think of doing the valve stem seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Pressure test. Stem seals are easy to change with the head on, so no big need to mess with them now. I had no signs of problems with them so I wouldn't have bothered if I wasn't changing the head casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Ok, so got it jack up, took out all the gubbin's, got the old clutch out, it was completely gone after what 8000 miles... Release bearing was cracked and melted a little and the slave cylinder fell apart when it came out. All new bits in, back together almost, afew bolts to go, props and then all the interior stuff. Had one issue with the left transfer case mount, the bottom bolt started spinning. Can I replace it with-out taking the gearbox off again? Got to get it moving before the end of play tomorrow, don't have a garage and it has been below zero for the last few weeks. We have had a little bit of snow, and the sun comes up at 10 and goes at 2. the head can be sorted when I can drive to my mates garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Had one issue with the left transfer case mount, the bottom bolt started spinning. Can I replace it with-out taking the gearbox off again? I've changed the mounts in the Ibex by lifting the back of the transfer box on the jack. Can't imagine the Defender would be much different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Well gonna bolt it al back up tomorrow, then when the mount come just do that. Fingers crossed the clutch went all back together right and it will just work again. If not, then at least I can tow it to my mate garage before it gets really cold, -5, snowing and in the dark is not fun really. Wrapped up like Michelin man makes it hard to move about. Really wish I had the cash to put in a cab heater, but I guess it will come... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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