Replacing brake rotors?

[Gringo]

The salt air and seawater and corrosion have finally caught up with all the disc rotors on our 2005 Defender 110. The rotors are scored and thin, and I have no doubts they wouldn't pass an inspection in any country that had inspections.

I looked at the topics in the tech section here, but didn't see anything about replacing the rotors specifically.

I'm fairly technical, and doing all my own maintenance on two of these ( a 90 and a 110 ) but I haven't had anything on the axles or brakes apart yet. I've fabricated brake pipes several times now, and replaced two clutch masters and a slave, and worked on various other bits and pieces. Is it a lot of work to replace the rotors and calipers or is this pretty simple when replacing old rusty stuff with brand shiny new ones? What's involved in replacing the rotors?

Also, Would appreciate it if someone could recommend a good supplier that can ship to the British West Indies, once I figure out the part numbers.

[western]

part numbers on this link http://www.numcat.ru...over/4/31/8420/

Replacing front brake discs from our tech archive

[Gringo]

Thanks for the help and info. I am running into the same confusion with that Russian parts site that I run into everywhere.

For example, looking at their first figure, there are four 'item 1" part numbers listed, even through there is of course only one Item 1. The disc itself.

I KNOW I need a front disc. What I don't know, so far, is which one? This diagram lists, for "Item 1" ( the disc):

1

FTC1381 Disc-solid brake 2

цена 1

SDB000330 Disc-solid brake 2

цена 1

SDB100980 Disc-solid brake 2

цена 1

FTC3846 Disc-solid brake

So, how do I know which of these four totally different part numbers is the one I need?

[western]

first diagram is for REAR disc brakes,

FRC7329 for front disc non-vented. on the upper right diagram.

or if the existing disc are vented then it'll be FTC902

obviously you will need 2 discs.

[Gringo]

Well, actually I need all four of them. But in this case, how do I know that I need the FRC7329 and therefore do not order the FTC902 by mistake?

And back to the rear rotors, I am trying to figure out which of those four model numbers I need. There are two FTC's and two SDB's. On that second diagram, for Item 12, the Без накладок,RH,Caliper assembly-front brake, there are eight part numbers listed.

I see there are prefixes for those, TRC and LR and STC and even an SEB. I really need to get my order right, because the shipping and import duties are going to make this some very expensive iron for me, and returning merchandise for exchange is totally out of the question. If I buy it, I own it. There is no such thing as warranty here.

what system do you use to tell you which of these various part number options is the right one for the vehicle in question?

Thanks for your patience. Once I figure out how which part numbers apply to my two Defenders, I can move on to a completely fresh set of annoying questions.

edit: I just figured out why I didn't find the topic in my search. You use the term 'disc' for what Americans call a 'rotor'. See, I'm learning already!

[western]

The vented disc look like this see first pic below, if your front disc look like that pic, then you need the FTC902 disc, if the are not then it's FRC7329

rear disc for a 300tdi 90 are these FTC1381 all rear disc are solid non vented on 90/110.

[Gringo]

Thank you, I understand slotted vs solid now.

But is there a system other than visual comparison for determining part numbers? I am trying to avoid having to plead for help online for every little part of this rebuild. I need caliper parts. Pistons, pads, bleeder screws, some kind of rebuild kit would be extremely helpful, with all the little springs and new gaskets and retaining hardware that has been eaten away. Do you know of anyone offering a complete caliper rebuild kit?

I think the caliper blocks themselves are serviceable. I can re-tap bolt holes etc. and have plenty of de-rusting tools of various calibers. A pneumatic needle gun , for example. I also have a small sand blasting cabinet and wire brushes and riffling files of all description. If the machined surfaces are still good, I can fix ugly.

Thanks again.

[zardos]

What's involved in replacing the rotors?

A quick list from the top of my head.

1. Jack up vehicle and take wheel off
   
2. remove calliper (you don't have to disconnect the brake pipe just secure it out of the way with cable ties), you might need a 12 sided socket for this and a breaker bar (as they can be tight)
   
3. Remove drive flange
   
4. Fold back lock washer and remove hub nut
   
5. Remove disc and hub from the stub axle catching the wheel bearings
   
6. On the back of the hub undo the bolts holding the disc to the hub (tip - lay wheel on the ground and re bolt the hub to it to make it easier to stop the whole thing turning), this will split the disc off the hub. Note that once the bolts are removed the disc still might be on very tight to the hub and need hitting with large hammer or pressed out.
   
7. Clean up, bolt back together in reverse order, re pack wheel bearings (might be worth replacing the bearings and oil seal as you are in there), torque everything up and set the wheel bearing end float (might not be required on later bearing)
   

I think it should take about 1 hour per wheel depending on how difficult it is to split the disc from the hub.

[Gringo]

Thanks. that makes perfect sense. I can easily handle that. And thank you for the suggestion on replacing the wheel bearings while I have it apart. Good idea.

I am plodding long. I just in the past hour found out that by loading Google Chrome I can now translate the Russian LR parts site. Big help to be able to read it.

I am now to the point where I am trying to find out which part numbers to put on the shopping list for the items I have identified from the Russian site dwgs:

Front and read disc numbers all set, thanks to Western. I think I also will need:

LH and RH shields wherever they are used.

Pistons for the front and rear calipers

Kit-brake caliper piston seal ( any ideas how many are in a kit? enough for one piston, or for one caliper, or for two calipers?) I don't know how many.

Set-pad front brake system, and for rear brake systems, with same questions on quantities.

screw-bleed valve I know these are all the same, as are the protective caps.

Kit-brake pad retaining, for both front and rear, etc.

And now oil seals and bearings, front and rear.

At least I am making progress, with help. I need to assemble the order and then figure out which supplier is the best choice for export sales. Who takes Master Card, and can ship UPS, for example. Not everyone does, we have found.

[western]

Thank you, I understand slotted vs solid now.

But is there a system other than visual comparison for determining part numbers? I am trying to avoid having to plead for help online for every little part of this rebuild. I need caliper parts. Pistons, pads, bleeder screws, some kind of rebuild kit would be extremely helpful, with all the little springs and new gaskets and retaining hardware that has been eaten away. Do you know of anyone offering a complete caliper rebuild kit?

I think the caliper blocks themselves are serviceable. I can re-tap bolt holes etc. and have plenty of de-rusting tools of various calibers. A pneumatic needle gun , for example. I also have a small sand blasting cabinet and wire brushes and riffling files of all description. If the machined surfaces are still good, I can fix ugly.

Thanks again.

I don't know of anyone offering a complete caliper/brake system rebuild kit, there shouldn't be any need to split the calipers or clean out the bleed screw thread, if the existing bleed screw is OK, leave it fitted.

brake pad fitting kits [pad retainer pins/springs] are available for all the calipers used on LR's.

PM me your chassis number & I'll have a good look in my micrcat parts info & give you a list of pads/disc's/retainer pins, bleed screws, caliper piston seal kit.

[Gringo]

The bleeder screws are so corroded away that I have gone down a complete wrench size, and then the next time I just use ViseGrips ( your Mole Grips, I think) to turn them. I can probably find four of them here locally, though. I would imagine those are fairly standard amongst the caliper manufacturers.

VIN on it is SALLDHMF74A684829.

IF, and this is a big if,. the brakes are the same parts now as they were in 96, there is a chance I can get some of what I need from D.A.P. in the US. Saves me time if I can do that, as they can ship UPS here and I will get it usually within 48 hours.

[Retroanaconda]

If yours is a standard 2005 Defender 110 without ABS and with vented discs (all 110s from 300Tdi had vented discs in the UK, I would presume export would be the same) then the parts should be the same yes. Or at least the same fitment.

Front disc: FTC902 x 2

Rear disc: FRC7329 x 2

Front pads: STC2952 x 1

Front retention kit: STC8575 x 1

Front caliper rebuild kit (4 pistons and seals): STC1280 x 2

Rear pads: SFP000250 x1

Rear retention kit: Included with pads (when bought genuine at least)

Rear caliper rebuild kit (2 pistons and seals: SEE500130 x 2

Bleed nipples will be M10x1mm thread. Part no. SMG000010 x4

[western]

there you go, I've been beaten to the draw, cheers James.

[CwazyWabbit]

I had a look at your blog Gringo, Some of your engine pictures show how corrosive the sea air is where you are good luck with your de-rusting!

[zardos]

Personally I would not bother replacing the piston and seals in the calliper as I believe it can be a pain in the a**e to get right and not damage the seals.

If you really want to do it it might be easier and safer to replace the whole calliper and not much more money.

e.g. depending on exactly the part number you need a pair of brake callipers cost around £90, a seal kit and standard pistons and bleed nipple could cost you around £30 or you could go for stainless pistons for around £95

The time difference between swapping the brake calliper or just the pistons and seals in high.

If you are going to change the bearings, you might want to go the whole hog and change the bearing races as well, but these can be a pain to drift/ press out from the hub.

[Gringo]

I had a look at your blog Gringo, Some of your engine pictures show how corrosive the sea air is where you are good luck with your de-rusting!

the corrosion is unbelievable. this past weekend a visitor stepped on one of the folding steps that came with the 110 and it collapsed from rust under the rubber cover. Our 110 has 40k kilometers on it, and the 90 has about 28k miles ( the 110 has a metric only speedo) and both of them are essentially starting to fall apart, both 2005 models. It saddens me greatly, but until someone comes out with a fiberglass replacement body, I think I am stuck with it. We love the Defenders, but probably won't buy any more of them as they are just too expensive as consumable vehicles.. I suppose the answer is to just buy some cheapo vehicle that can handle the roads for two years, and trade them every two years. Also something that I can get parts for. Being in a Brit Overseas Territory, I had assumed LR parts would be plentiful. Not so. I might have to buy something like KIA or Jeep for the next vehicle. I can get parts easily enough from local auto parts (NAPA) or down from the US in two days.

I had thought the aluminum bodies of the Defenders would be good here, and yes, the aluminum is more or less holding up except for all the fuzzy white aluminium oxide, but the steel....oh it's in bad shape. And the bodies are held together with steel. As I am sure you guys realize from your own experience. Keeping a Defender here is like watching your corrosion problems ( doors, hinges, body strips, suspension, exhaust, brakes) in time lapse photography.

Thanks for all the help. D.A.P. in the US says they can ship me the parts for the front wheel brakes immediately, but don't have the rear brakes in stock. So I will get started with their shipment, and then hope I can find someone in the UK to ship the rear parts to arrive in a week or so.

We have a truckload of sons coming to visit for the holidays, and I have found that bad brakes get a whole lot worse when the 110 is loaded up with people.

Now, if I can just find a good deal on replacing the soft top on the 90 with a solid pickup truck style top...