WHO4 MUD Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Hi and Happy New year to you all I was wondering how you I can tell if my brake discs need replacing? My rear pads are defenatly gone on both rear wheels (will be the secound set the tuck has had) one side is down to the metal and the other has got quite alot left id say about 6mm. Truck has done 45,000+ odd and hasn't had new discs. Im regreasing all the wheel bearings (done one corner last night) wile I have the hubs off etc do you think it worth changing the discs? I started checking the wheel bearings because i was getting an intermittent wobble from the rear could this be possible be a warped break disc or would that be more permanent? Many Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 usually a warped disc shows up under braking more . Rear wobble is more likely wheel balance which if severe can cause premature bearing wear. With the unequal wear of pads you need to check that piston is not siezed on one side. If you have gone metal to metal defo need new discs, as new pads wont last very long at all loose bearings usually cause increased brake pedal travel . HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 If the pad wear is uneven, then it is worth checking to see if you have a siezed caliper piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHO4 MUD Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 cool thanks for that, new discs and pads for the rear and all the wheels balanced, should have thought of that it has been a wile sine i had them balanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHO4 MUD Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 one more question if one of the calliper pistons are seized what is the best way of unsiezing it WD40 and a hammer?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I would say, take the calliper off and try to move it with a g clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 IMHO if you have a seized caliper, remove it and either do a full recondition [replacing all pistons, honing the caliper-bores and replacing both the inner fluid-seal and outer lip-seal] or exchange/replace it. The various ways to shove the corroded pistons back into the caliper-bores *might* work - temporarily. But they're 100% guaranteed to bugger-up the seals and it's only likely to seize again - or worse - fluid-leak-fail in the near future. Sod's Law is that it fails when you make an emergency-stop: nothing good can be written about that "my brake-foot is hard on the floor and we're not slowing" moment. New/Exchange calipers are cheap. They're quick/easy to fit. And a hell of a lot easier than explaining to your insurers just why your brakes failed. --Tanuki. "If you can't catch it you can't eat it" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorrick Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 if it was warped discs, you can usually feel the break pedal pushing your foot back and moving whilst breaking as mine are doing at the moment after 1 month from replacing tall 4 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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