SPendrey Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Hello, I've a '95 Disco 300TDI Auto (no spider) that recently went swimming , since that episode we drove home after some miracle mechanical work. The car restarted to drive into the garage (after stopping to open the gates & door) but won't start at all. I turn the key but get nothing other than the glow plug relay. The central locking is not working either which makes me think the alarm is my problem? The battery is delivering 12V (12.4V to be precise). So, I've tried the 'new born/reset' procedure (two actually, one from RAVE and another from the internet) but I can't get the alarm LED to illuminate. On both, the start condition is "doors unlocked", but my boot is jammed locked for some reason. Would it make sense that this is likely the culprit preventing the reset? I assume that's included in "doors unlocked"? Is my best option to remove the rear door panel (break it basically, since the door is locked shut) and sort the lock first, or are there other ideas that might allow me to bypass the alarm? Understandably, if there are then a PM might be the best method to inform me Thanks, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Scott, The battery sounds a bit on the low side to me, should it not be around 13v? Try giving it a jump/charge. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Scott, the rear door could be the knackered spring. Pop the badge off the handle and get some WD40 in there, and have a poke about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterdon Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 The cental locking and alarm ecu is beneath the glove box, it has a coax plug and two other connectors. Have a look at it, it may still be swimming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 The cental locking and alarm ecu is beneath the glove box, it has a coax plug and two other connectors. Have a look at it, it may still be swimming! Yeah, I did have a look today, everything seems to be dry in there. I couldn't remove the ECU itself simply because it is a pig to unscrew! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Short update - after leaving the fan heater focused on the alarm ECU for a couple of hours, the car now cranks, but doesn't fire up. I suspect therefore it is water inside the ECU or relays causing the problem. Will continue to dry them for another day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Well, after another day of drying, the car failed to crank again. So, I sourced a replacement ECU and now it starts fine! However, the central locking only works on one of the rear doors. I've got a couple of eBay-sourced actuators coming to eliminate them, but I believe the problem to be wiring related as there's no voltage (temporarily) at the pink/orange cables when activating the locking. I suppose the driver's door actuator may be a problem, but if i press the bottom on it the 'working' door does lock. So, now the question is this... RAVE shows there to be splices in the pink/orange cabling called S2007 and S2009 (see picture), and I think this is near the alarm ECU somewhere... can anyone confirm their location? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Here's the root cause of the problems I had. Fixes so far have included 3 new lock actuators, boot and rear doors lots of carpet (and underlay) drying a jubilee clip (that we dropped somewhere at the scene) a replacement alarm/central locking module an iPod (to replace the CD changer!) and a replacement SRS/airbag ECU, although I still have the warning light on. Hoping this'll be fixed later this week at a garage who has a T4 system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Where did you take her swimming Scott? Is that one of the fords on the Fosse Way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 It is, and probably the deepest I've ever seen it. The entrance to the ford (the bit where I am) was the deepest section, it shallowed out after this a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Same ford as my profile picture I think! Much shallower then though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murran Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 an expencive troublesome "swim" there then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UkFoxy Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Yeah, I did have a look today, everything seems to be dry in there. I couldn't remove the ECU itself simply because it is a pig to unscrew! When you say you couldn't remove the ECU you meant the alarm ECU?......I have a similar problem with my disco...but...wait for it...I unplug the alarm ECU..& the ECM & it starts & runs fine...Work that out!.....I don't have any speedo, central locking, & some of my interior lights aren't working. I am have changed the alarm ECU ..just the same. I am now waiting for an MFU (Multi function Unit) to come & hopefully that will be my miracle cure! I unplugged the cable that goes to the transfer box for the speedo (No voltage, even turning the wheel)..voltage to the interior fusebox but none to the speedo connector on the dash....treble checked all fuses & they are fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 Blimey, can't explain that! I did mean the alarm ECU, which is awkward to remove because of its location and access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 to remove it you need an 8mm ring spanner and 9" long fingers Actually I managed to remove mine with a set of thumb sockets, these are a 2mm - 10mm socket set designed to be used just with fingers rather than a wrench. It was a person I'm not that keen on of a job as loktite had been applied to the screws! Once out I carried out some rectification including water-proofing with a can of electronic sealing varnish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Here's the root cause of the problems I had. Fixes so far have included 3 new lock actuators, boot and rear doors lots of carpet (and underlay) drying a jubilee clip (that we dropped somewhere at the scene) a replacement alarm/central locking module an iPod (to replace the CD changer!) and a replacement SRS/airbag ECU, although I still have the warning light on. Hoping this'll be fixed later this week at a garage who has a T4 system. May I give a few hints, having crossed several flooded rivers recently in the channel country north of Birdsville recently, most of which were up to the headlights. 1.) Carry a tarp and tie it over the bonnet and wrap it up into the front of the wheel arches. 2.) Seal every hole under the car, screw in the wading plugs. 3.) Use fabric duct tape around the doors up to the windows- yes you will need to climb in the open window!. 4.) Drive only fast enough to form a "bow wave" and once you have one -- dont stop !!! the wave pushes water away from the front of the vehicle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotorat Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Scott - lets see the photos from yesterdays snow trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Sent you a link to my "DropBox" Tony. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UkFoxy Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 So is that your alarm sorted now Scott? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Yes, just replaced the alarm/central locking ECU with another off a 'donor' vehicle. Then retrained it using the method found online (hold the bonnet switch, ignition on/off etc. etc.). In fact, everything is back to normal now, normal meaning the ABS system is still dodgy as a £9 note. I've also got a new wobble I didn't have before, at about 3000rpm, but that's not going to stop me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UkFoxy Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Yes, just replaced the alarm/central locking ECU with another off a 'donor' vehicle. Then retrained it using the method found online (hold the bonnet switch, ignition on/off etc. etc.). In fact, everything is back to normal now, normal meaning the ABS system is still dodgy as a £9 note. I've also got a new wobble I didn't have before, at about 3000rpm, but that's not going to stop me. I replaced the alarm ECU but I still needed to short out pins 1 & 2 before it would start! (Earth to the starter motor) I still have no central locking & no speedo. I'll try the method that you used (tomorrow) & see what happens. I'll try the online method tomorrow & see what happens...I'll keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UkFoxy Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 I tried the bonnet switch method with no joy. Without using the keyfob I can set the alarm with the key in the drivers door & when I unlock it the using the same method it de-activates the alarm...surely that can't be right? As for the central locking I can hear all the door actuators working but the one in the drivers door doesn't push or pull the actuator even though I can here it doing something. I removed the actuator completely & the only movement is manual I'm wondering if the spring has broken inside the actuator?. AND...Rave & Haynes show ONE pink/brown wire going from the internal fuse box directly to the actuator, mine has a manufacturers connector between the two with NINE wires going to the actuator!! From the chassis loom there is a Pink/Brown wire but it's not live & it doesn't have a mating half in the connector that goes to the actuator... I've not even tried curing the speedo problem yet! All ideas greatly received .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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