eds Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Having barely survived the excitement of a swivel rebuild, it is the next problem. The clutch gave up working. Pedal was not there and clutch not disengaging. Checked clutch reservoir and it is bone dry. Where has all the fluid gone? None to be found in the foot well.... I refilled it but nothing has changed. Does the thing use fluid, in which case topping up and bleeding should solve the problem. Or is it new master/slave adventure time! Les mentioned in a post that clutches are self bleeding to a certain extent. Will it sort itself out on it's own? Hopefully! Thanks for the support as usual............ always appreciated :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I had a Range Rover that would loose the clutch fluid. I got to carrying brake fluid with me. Fill up the resevoir and see what happens... Then you can fit new parts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 the master usually fails 1st and dribbles down the pedal onto the footwell, if you fill&bleed and its still not working-it could be the clutch fork has punched through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Can you see the clutch fork moving to diagnose this easily? I am hoping it is just a case of leaky seals and new cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brighouse shed Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 try looking on your drive when my slave packed up it didn't fill the footwell but dumped it on the drive instead. double de-clutching refers to your knuckles i found when mine gave up and still had to get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Mine did the same, and is in the process of having the slave changed. take out your wading plug from the bellhousing and see if anything comes out. Although the dust inside can soak up the fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Mine did this. Seal had gone in the slave cylinder, fluid was in the bell housing. HTH's Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 As everyones said above, its your slave by the sounds of it.. Change both cylinders, decent quality ones are about £30 each last time I changed some.. its worth changing the flexy hose as well. As jobs go its not difficult but time consuming I always find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 I am ordering the new slave and master and flexi........... Are there any gaskets or unknown bits needed for the job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 No, It's an easy job if the rod doesn't come off the arm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 You should replace 2 copper washers if its a TD5.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Does the rod come off the arm often. Should I half expect it to separate or can it be avoided with secret knowledge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Mine did & it was a pain in the arse to get back on. I'm no expert but if I had to change a slave cylinder again I'd do the following: Remove the pipe from the slave cylinder then remove the two bolts, ease the cylinder back about 10 mm then grip the rod with a pair of narrow jaw mole grips, try to hold the rod in position whilst you remove the cylinder. Before you push the new cylinder on to the rod give it a clean and lube it with some new fluid, grip it again and push on the new cylinder. If the clip that secures the rod to the clutch arm does come off it is possible to get it back on without taking the gearbox / engine out but it's a sod. HTH's Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minimaquinas Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 it must be the month of slave cylinders leaking as i have just changed my mates on his td5 10 minute job including bleeding it if only everything was so easy lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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