Leaking Transfer Box

[Anglo-Frenchman]

The small leak I had on my transfer box has become more persistent now and with an average of 2,500kms per month I think I need to get it sorted out pronto.

It appears that the oil is coming from somewhere high up on the box close to where the diff-lock linkage is mounted and is also running down the side of the LT77. It's hard to see from beneath so I'm going to have to take of the tunnel to get a better look. Do the transfer boxes leak on the mating face to the LT77 and if so is simply (ha ha ha) a case of renewing a seal? Any advice welcome.

[simonb]

Its probably the seal on the input of the transfer which has gone. Mine is doing the same thing (its a R380) -if its definetely EP90 then they seldom leak else where apart from the output shafts. The oil leaks down from the join between main and transfer then runs down the edge of the square cover plate and drips off the bottom bolt. The airstream then usually carrys it to the bottom of the handbrake drum, out the back and leaves spots of oil on the rear door.....

Its transfer box off, remove bolts and replace with studding to avoid straining o/p shaft of the main box. Then drop out transfer and hook out seal to replace. The seal is ICV10000, should be the same for all LT230's.

Was going to do mine this wknd, but ended up doing my swivel preload instaed...

[little nay]

simonb is probably rite. it not to ba a job but get a mate round to help cos transfer boxes r friggin heavy......... well there are for me!

[Anglo-Frenchman]

Wow. Thanks a lot guys. Simonb you've got the diagnosis spot on - right down to the ol spots of oil on the rear spare wheel cover - I wondered where those were coming from? I don't quite follow your reference to changing the bolts for studs. Could you explain that please? I will probably have to do the job on my own but presume if I get trolly jck under the box I can support it on that unitl its free.

Thanks again.

[Mark90]

Swapping bolts for long studs

[Anglo-Frenchman]

Thanks for the link Mark. I presume then that with these studes in place the whole job can be done without actually dropping the box out altogether. Is the seal still (relatively) easily accessible with the box slid back as shown in the picture sequence?

Are there any other seals/bearings that should be replaced while the box is removed? I saw on Eblag that a company was selling recon LT230 boxes with the option of a 1.222 ratio gear for the Defender to improve motorway driving. Can this mod be carried out to an existing box and if so any ideas on the necessary gear/part no etc and ease of job.

Thanks in anticipation!

[Mark90]

You might be able to change the seal without dropping the box completely, but it would be easier with the box out. It's not difficult to get the box back up on the studs. Just remember to keep the weight supported on a trolley jack and not on the studs.

To change to a 1.222 ratio you really need to chnage to a 1.222 box. Think you can change the gears but that would mean stripping and rebuilding the box. Some people like the 1.222 ratio box in defender, some find it over geared, seems to depend on your power output, driving style, etc. I wouldn't want to up the gearing in my 200tdi 110, but then I do tow heavy loads at times.

[Anglo-Frenchman]

Thanks for all the advice - much appreciated.

[simonb]

Drop the box out, it will be somewhat tricky with ur head up under the seat box trying to get the new seal in square! Also gives you the chance to give it a good pressure wash off as well.

I'd also replace the front output shaft seal and pull off the handbrake drum, clean the mud out of it and do the seal that end as well while u've got it all on the floor. To stop the output shafts turning, engage diff lock, to lock them together, then bolt a long thinish (width wise) strip of metal to 2 bolts on the front flange. As you try to undo the flange nut you can wedge this strip against the side of the casing to stop it turning. Before removing the front flange, slacken the nut on the rear one as well. Same effect can be acheived with a bar and two long bolts through the front flange, to stop it turning.

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

Changing from 1.410 to 1.222 involves changing the intermediate gear cluster. This can only be done with the box out, because you cannot withdraw the intermediate shaft with the box in place

Depending upon the mileage of your box the intermediate shaft maybe the source of your leak ……….. there is an O ring in the housing that is prone to failure. When it fails the EP90 finds its way between to mating surfaces of the gearbox/ transfer box and then drips off the cover plate at the bottom …….. it also gets blown back over the rear axle and up onto the rear door. This fault gives the same symptoms as that of the input shaft oil seal leaking. The O ring is on the inboard end of the shaft so the box has to be removed to change it.

Ian

[Anglo-Frenchman]

The box has done around 70,000 miles - the main gearbox was replaced a couple of years back with an Ashcroft recon unit. any clues as to the part number of the O ring in question and ease of renewal?

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

70K is not a huge mileage ……… I have seen plenty with 200K + on them.

Sorry, I don’t have the part numbers to hand (but I bet that Western will be along later with them) , but this may help,

The O ring is 25 and the input seal is 27,

HTH

PS .... if you want the manual in PDF then drop me an email or a PM with your email address.

Ian

[Anglo-Frenchman]

Thank you kindly.

[Anglo-Frenchman]

Sorry to re-visit this thread, but I am about to drop the transfer box out to renew the various seals and 'O' rings and have a couple of queries:

1. When the transfer box comes out does the LT77 g/box entension stay bolted to the back of the g/box as I note it is held with some odd headed bolts?

2. Is there a good way of supporting the box and is there any benefit to raising the CSW up on ramps on one or t'other end?

3. What does the t/box weigh?!

On an unrelated topic, I serviced the CSW today and decided to replace the swivel oil with the one-shot grease. Well, what a pain the ar*se job that was. I thought it would just squeeze into the filler holes as nice as pie. What total mess I got into as it kept backing up in the filler. I tried removing the axle breather banjo thinking that there was some back pressue - no change. I eventually decanated the grease into an old 1/2 litre oil bottle with a long nozzle but still what a pain. Talk about misjudging a task! I'm off to bath in Swarfega. Rant over.

[simonb]

Extension bit stays attached to the main box, see long stud bit above, if you have an engine crane support box from top thru seatbox, otherwise its a trolley/bottle jack from below and some sort of wooden cradle. Its heavy, main and transfer on a wooden pallet weigh almost 100kg. Transfer is heavier than the main, its at least 40kg...