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Clutching at Straws! (2.25 to 2.5 engine swap-clutch wont work&#33


FATBAZIL

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I just fitted a 2.5 N/A Defender engine into my Series 3. The previous engine was a 2.25 Diesil which worked fine. I used the friction plate from the 2.25 clutch (as the splines are diffrent on a Defender gearbox) and the pressure plate onto the 2.5 engine. Eveything seemed to slot together fine. The Defender and series pressure plates looked the same (less wear on the 2.25 so I refitted it)

Started her up but the clutch wont disengage.

No leaks but I changed the master and slave cylinders, bled system but still no luck.

Before pulling out the gearbox have I missed something?

Am I mad?

Help, advice, guidance (and sarcasm) sought and appreciated!

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So you have fitted the series cover and plate(which did work) to the 2.5 engine, and new master cylinder and slave in the hydraulics and it now does not work. I suspect hydraulic issues.

Is the slave piping the right way up with the pipe in the bottom port and the bleed screw in the top?

What make is the master cylinder?

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Not sure what make the master is and the pipework all appears OK.

Everything worked fine when the 2.25 was fitted. I changed the master and slave cylinders after fitting the 2.5 engine and encountering this problem.

The reason for replacing both cylinders was to try to negate any hydraulic problems.

On pressing the clutch pedal all feels exactly as it did when everything was working fine!

On a seperate note-Les, I followed your post for the timing belt swap. Absolutely spot on and a great help.

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How long after fitting the clutch did you actually attempt to drive the vehicle? Vehicles that have been left standing for a while (sometimes just a couple of months), have the problem of the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel - due to surface corrosion.

Les

Good point les. Been about a month since fitting engine and start up. I think i will be pulling it out and takin a look. I think anythung obviously missed would have been picked up by someone on here. Will keep u posted-thanks thus far.
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could it be something simple like different length actuator rod? new one being to long and keeping the clutch engaged reguardless of pedal, different length slave cylinder bore causing same problem?

Will take a look at ths also. Thanks.
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When I put a 200tdi in my old series the clutch was stuck on (been sitting for less than a month). Before you take it to bits I would try starting it with the brakes hard on, clutch down and in 4th gear, that's normally enough to free it up. Put some chocks in front of the wheels though as it took four attempts to free mine up and at one point I ended up stuck on top of the sizeable rocks I was using as chocks. Doesn't take long and it might save you a lot of hassle.

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  • 1 month later...

I finally had some spare time and a couple of days of decent weather. I pulled out the gearbox and stripped the clutch apart. I found that the friction plate was well and truly bonded to the flywheel with rust! I recall that when fitting the engine it Mildly miffed down at one point and the engine got wet. Rainwater must have got onto the clutch and as it stood for nearly two months the inevetiable happened. Whilst the gearbox was out I changed a couple of seals and fixed the handbrake and painted some of the chassis with waxoil. Took her out for a test drive yesterday and all seems well.

Thanks for the advice all.

Cheers

Mike

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