BFRieck Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Hello all, newbie here with two Series III questions. I would like to install a tow bar to flat tow the 109. Obviously, the tow bar has up and down flexibility - nevertheless, I assume that the tow bar should be fairly level when both vehicles (tow and towed) are on flat ground, no? Other than considerations of what is safe under the conditions, is there any reason not to tow the LR at highway speeds - I realize the LR's top speed is about 62 mph. Can I safely tow it at say, 70 or 75? (By "safely" I mean will it hurt the vehicle?) Second question involves the driver's seat location. Adjusted to the rear as far as possible, the driver's seat is still too close to the pedals, steering wheel, etc. for my taste. I'm only 5'10" so I know it will be even worse for my 6'3" son. Has a mod been developed to gain more legroom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Not sure about the law in the US (I believe it may even vary from state to state), but here in the UK any "trailer" weighing more than 750Kg has to have an approved overrun braking-system or other mechanism for applying the brakes on the 'trailer'. I can't see any reason for the transmission of the towed LR to suffer damage - just put all the levers in neutral and (if you have them) set freewheel front-hubs to 'free'. But do check out the legal situation!! There may be a US-equivalent to the NTTA: http://www.ntta.co.uk/law/ - that can give advice. --Tanuki. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Thanks, I'll check out the US requirements, but I don't think we have them here in Texas (it would be state by state). It may be that certain, particularly heavy, trailers are required to have so-called "panic" brakes which, should the trailer come loose from the towing vehicle, fully apply the trailer brakes but there are certainly a lot of trailers on the road that do not have them. I've been stopped for trailer violations before, but only because I lacked (or I was unaware of their failure) proper lighting. Never been asked about the brakes - either their existence or whether they were working. Lighting will be somewhat problematic since the LR has a 24v system. Most folks just use the independent, magnetically attached subsets - obviously, if I go that route, I'll have to find someway to mount them since they won't stick to the aluminum bodywork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Do not put the high/low gear in neutral, leave it in high. You only need to leave the main in neutral. See here: http://www.severnvalleyleafers.co.uk/ and go to resources, towing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Do not put the high/low gear in neutral, leave it in high. You only need to leave the main in neutral. Not a good idea as the mainshaft will be turning with no oil being thrown about by the layshaft gears cos the engine wont be running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Not a good idea as the mainshaft will be turning with no oil being thrown about by the layshaft gears cos the engine wont be running. So would it be best to have it all in gear and somehow have the clutch depressed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Hmmm, seems I remember being advised somewhere to put the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in high range 4th. Anyone ever heard of doing it that way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Based on what that other site said you would effectively have front and rear props linked with the transfer box in neutral which would be bad. Unless you happen to have freewheeling hubs, then you may be ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Assuming non-free wheeling hubs, is the optimal situation having the transmission in neutral and the transfer box in high per the severn valley leafers link? What is going on in that situation? When the tranny is in neutral, what part of the box is turning? Is everything that is turning being lubricated? If not, how much does it matter? It sounds like flat towing a Series is not all that unusual so there must be some configuration that doesn't do much, if any, damage, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I've always been rescued with t'box in high and main in neutral......not that I've been rescued for a while I'm glad to say! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 If you leave the main in neutral and the transfer in high the bronze centre bearing will melt- been there done it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Oh what joys, if you leave the T'Box in neutral you risk windup and halfshafts, in you leave it in high you bugger the main box...sounds about right for LR design. Sounds like another good reason to fit FWH to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 OD in neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Well, where am I? Is there ANY safe way, other than FWH's, to flat tow my Series III (no overdrive on mine)? Well, thinking about it, I suppose disconnecting the propshafts at the axles will work unless that somehow messes up something in the axles although I can't think, offhand, what that might be. Obviously, crawling under the truck at the beginning and end of each tow is a little bit of a nuisance, but better than ruining something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Pull the rear half shafts and replace the flange ends with a spare pair to keep carp out and lube in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Just how often do you plan to be towing this landy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 How often? At a guess, behind your RV, quite a lot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 I'm not an RV'er, so I won't be dragging it with one of those. I'll drag it down the highway to and from offroad excursions fairly often; at least twice a month on average. It could go a couple of hundred miles each time. I'll do it often enough that taking it apart (i.e., disconnecting the propshafts or the like) would be pretty inconvenient, especially if the weather wasn't good. I've been using a trailer which is inconvenient enough in that it involves setting and adjusting the ramps, tying the LR down, etc. - plus the trailer rig is a little heavy (tongue weight) for the towing vehicle. I also think the towing vehicle's fuel consumption would be a little less if I wasn't dragging the trailer in addition to the LR, especially since the added height (+/- 18") increases the wind resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Whilst I’m not qualified to comment on the effects towing will have on a series transmission* (although the Severn Valley leafer’s link seemed the most sensible, IMHO). With respect to other members on here, given that you received conflicting advice, perhaps a call to Ashcroft transmissions in the UK would give you confidence, given you’d get some answers from a transmissions expert… Seems that perhaps the best solution would be getting a good trailer setup. A proper, dual (or even tri-) axle car transporter trailer should not impose too much tongue (nose in the UK) weight on a vehicle rated to tow it. Having a good trailer setup also has the advantage that you can get the truck home, should you have some kind of breakdown that makes the vehicle un-towable (bust a diff, steering borked, whatever). Obviously that would not be a cheap solution. A trailer built for the purpose should also not require adjusting of ramps and the like, and with practise and proper tie-down straps you should be able to get the loading down to <5 minutes…ultimate ‘luxury’ is one of those hydraulic tilt-bed trailers which don’t need ramps at all. I’ve hired one in the past and it was really easy to load a car which was basically otherwise immovable (‘barn find’, brakes seized on, tyres flat, etc). Just my $0.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFRieck Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 I think you're probably right about the trailer. The pictures you posted are certainly of a nice one. I've also seen a trailer that lowers the deck until it is flat on the ground (not the expensive hydraulic cylinder operated type, but one that uses a simple boat type cable winch. I have a massive tilt bed trailer used for hauling a bulldozer that is hinged. One leaves the trailer hooked to the tow vehicle, releases a pin and, as the vehicle backs off and the weight shifts, the bed of the trailer tilts such that the rear contacts the ground. To load is the reverse (trailer deck is weighted such that, empty, it will remain tilted). It's pretty scary with the 'dozer since the trailer deck is above the wheels - shouldn't be too hard to build a similar design with the wheels outboard of the deck making the tilt much less steep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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