Boris113 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 First off sorry if this is in the wrong forum, I wasn't sure where to put it. I've finally managed to track down a welder, Murex Tradesmig 260-1. It's a single phase unit but I currently only have a 13amp supply in the garage. Does anyone know the correct way to wire in a 32amp blue plug into the fuse box? The fusebox is in the room adjacent to the garage so drilling a hole through isnt a problem but I dont want to start playing about with the household electrics. The house is only 10 years old if thats makes any difference and we already have a big fuse in the box that is used by the cooker, can I use the same fuse or should I use another? A mate of mine simply spliced into a 13amp socket and connected a blue plug into that so there are no fuses in the circuit other than in the main fusebox but that didn't sound like a particularly good idea to me. Thanks in advance, Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisW70 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 It needs to be on it's own dedicated 32amp fuse/breaker at the consumer unit, cabled direct to the socket with no other devices (other than a local isolator) in the line. Cable size minimum 4mm² but if it was me I'd probably do it in 6mm² - I'm assuming it's single phase wired in twin & earth? The problem with splicing it into a 2.5mm² ring is the cable is only rated at 27amps (assuming no correction factors apply) so depending on the location of the socket on the ring all that current could be flowing down one leg making the cable rather warm and drastically reducing the life and affecting the insulation possibly. YMMV... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Own supply run in 6mm cable from fuse box. If the cooker is run in 6mm, you could run a 6mm supply from that, but if the cooker were on at the same time as welding, you could well take it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 I agree with the comments above regarding putting the socket on its own breaker. I'd look to use a type C or D curve rather than a B, which could trip due to the inductive load of the welder's transformer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Thanks guys, To ear on the side of caution I will run a seperate 6mm2 cable from the fusebox (i presume that is the same as the consumer unit?) with it's own dedicated fuse. Is this a job that is safe to do myself or should I get an electrician in? What type of isolator should it have and can this be located in the garage or should it be by the fuse box? Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrKev Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 sounds like you should get a sparky in if you don't know the answers to these questions, sorry. The socket you choose should also be shuttered or interlocked in some way if the premises are domestic. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Haha I have very limited knowledge of household electrics so i think my sparky mate will be bribed with beer tokens...I don't want to cause irrepairable damage. On a slightly different note, I presume household insurance is invalid re fire etc unless it is done by a qualified professional? Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Since 2002 ish you should get a part p certificate for a new circuit which a correctly qualified electrician can issue on behalf of the building inspector or you can contact the building inspector directly who will organise the approval. That said very few electricians bother as it means extra work for them registering the work online and I've never heard of an insurance company refusing to pay if this certificate isn't available but that doesn't count for a lot. My parents recently sold their house which they had had gutted and refurbished by professionals, the buyers survey picked up on the fact that the windows, boiler and electrics hadn't had the relevant paperwork registered with the building inspector so they had to pay to get them checked and registered. It's your call As for your situation I would put a new mcb in the box, if you have space on the rcd side put it there, if not you can get mcbo's with the rcd built in, athough some say the transformers in welders can trip rcd's i haven't found it to be a problem yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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