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Axle swivel seals???


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Is it just the swivel seal, the big ones on the balls? when its only these that need doing, I split the balls off the axle tube and withdraw the whole assemble from the diff, change the seals, refit ball to axle tube with new bolts. As its disk braked, you'll be able to just loose off the calliper and hang it on the spring.

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Well....

Oil pissing out almost as quick as its put in and there's cream in the diff oil so I'm guessing(???) that I'm going to have to change them all???

What you reckon??

Cheers, much appreciated!!

How do you know what else is buggered?? i.e. balls, other seals.

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My question was more a case of whether you were planning on doing more work at the same time. I don't know about a rangy, but on my Series axles, the oil behind the big seal is seperate to the oil in the diff and axle tube, so if there's cream in the diff oil on mine, it'd be a case of ball seals failed aswell. wouldn't a rangy have greased swivels?

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My question was more a case of whether you were planning on doing more work at the same time. I don't know about a rangy, but on my Series axles, the oil behind the big seal is seperate to the oil in the diff and axle tube, so if there's cream in the diff oil on mine, it'd be a case of ball seals failed aswell. wouldn't a rangy have greased swivels?

Have to agree. Dont know about the rangie but on the disco theres a seal on the ball to stop the axle and swivel hub oils mixing. Is the axle breather tube still attatched ? If its come off I spose water could have got into the axle that way. If the ball and swivel seals have gone chances are hub seals are shot to.... Sorry, sounds like a strip down needed to me :( If its any consolation its not as bad a job as it seems.

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Had a good look today after reading all the replies!!

Thankyou so much everyone!!

Barrysheene, that thread is the dogs whats its!!!

Ejparrot, thankyou also! I hadnt spotted the little drain and fill plugs on the hubs! I had no idea there were seperate!! I think that it is the swivel seal as I have oil leaking from there but nothing on the discs! And I should of said when the oil leaks out it stops leaking until its topped back up in the diff!

N/s ball looks nice, o/s looks bit nasty at the top. Bit pitted so I think I might have all that side to do!! Hopefully should manage it though with these threads!!

Going to get stuck on the preload I think! Is by feel good enough?? Same as most tapered bearings? Nip it then back off a fraction??

Going to buy bits this weekend. Where would be the best place to get them?? I'll do everything possible to one side and just the swivel seal on the other i hope!

Any ideas how the air valve at the top off the diff works? Is it a one way valve or is it plainly just a hole with a fancy cap over it??

Cheers fellas!!

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The air valve is just a breather tube to allow for expansion/contraction of the air inside the axle cae when changes in temperature happen. All it is is a 90 degree banjo fitting. They do block up sometimes. Find the end and blow down it to check with the diff level plug out.

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If it stops leaking until you refill the diff, then it sounds like there isn't any seals between the balls and the axle tube. Now I know owners of other green oval products remove them and allow diff oil to mix with swivel oil/grease, but I have no idea whether the rangy has seals in the back of the ball by deisgn. I believe the early ones did as I think my friends hybrid has them. They should be about 1.5" diameter, and they sit in a recess machined in the back of the ball where it fits to the axle tube.

Buy new bolts for fitting the balls back to the axle tube, please don't reuse old unknown ones, they're not expensive.

How much work are you going to do? Are you going to do complete swivel rebuilds with new kingpins and bearings? wheels bearings? New balls?

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I bought a complete swivel ball kit from foundry 4x4. If you can live without the car for a few days I'd strip down before ordering parts. I ended up needing hubseals, bearings, swivel ball full kit, new hub,( the hub was too mangled to grip the new bearings ) Thrust bearing etc :rolleyes: . Oh and replace your hub nuts and washers for new they are only penny's. You will also need a a landrover hub nut socket for the hub nuts. HTH.

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As far as I know, all of them were built with a seal between the axle and the swivel. Personally, I would put them in if they are missing

I would have hub seals and wheel bearings on hand, if you don't use them you will just have them for next time :). Lock washers are woth buying, but unless the nuts are completely knackered (from being undone with a hammer and chisel) there is no point replacing them.

As above, you will need a 52mm Socket or box spanner for doing.undoing the hub nuts. I have used both and prefer the socket type, much nicer to use.

Where to buy... Find your local land rover specialist. Buying online can be good for some things, but I much prefer walking into the local indi and getting the bits over the counter. If you're not entirely sure what you want, a rough description can normally help him to work it out or if you have the part and just want a new one you can take it in. However the best bit is it being close, if I have the truck in bits and I've forgotten a gasket, seal or run out of oil I can just go and get one/some. No need to wait for a couple of days for delievery.

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If you're going to go for a full rebuild, then don't by sh*tpart balls, they are the hardest thing to change, so buy quailty. I don't know if teflon ones are any better than chrome, I've only ever had chrome. Spend a few quid on evilbay and get yourself a spring balance, they're not expensive, and make sure you get plenty of shims for the swivel pins.

And please please, buy new bolts for the balls and the swivel pins, they're not expensive

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I fall in to the school of thought that says leave them off. Some poeple swear by them to stop general road carp being thrown up and damaging the chrome, which leads to ball seal getting damaged and leaking, and others say that they split and the carp gets in there and is held against the chrome and knackers it anyway..

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