kevin7799 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Bit of an usual one really - my fuel gauge drops to zero when I brake or indicate, and then come back up when a release or cancel, it doesn't affect performance just annoying. Can anyone shine light on what could be causing this - many thanks Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 you have a bad earth connection, where black wires meet eachother or the body/ chassis remove the wires, clean them up with an abrasive and reassemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Change the fuse and try to clean the fuse holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Voltage stabaliser behind the dash is another possibility Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin7799 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 sorry, a bit of a novice here, (1995 defender 110) vulcan bomber - are these wires likely to be behind the intrument console? reiny - fuse for the petrol gauge?? stuck - voltage stabiliser - haven't a clue what that is but I'll look it up Many thanks to all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Ok, you need to get up to speed on electrical circuits fast. This is an oversimplification, but it works to explain: The + (positive) electricity in the battery goes in a wire to the fuse box, and then on to the brake light switch. When you press the brake the switch closes and the + electricity flows to the light bulb and then back to the - (minus) on the battery via the bodywork. This makes a circuit. Your landrover has a break somewhere in this circuit, most likely between the brake light bulb and the bodywork, and the electricity can't quite get back to the battery. So, it goes another route - through your gauges. What you need to do: Get a wiring diagram for your landrover - it's a fairly simple wiring loom, if I recall correctly. Get a continuity meter of some form, I use a multimeter, and, a long piece of decent auto wire with a crocodile clip on each end. Get access to the brake light wiring - I think it's through the inside back of the rear tub. Connect the black wire coming from the light fitting to the - terminal on the battery and test the brake lights - if the problem is solved then the bit between the black wire and the - terminal of the battery is faulty. Follow the wire along until you find the fault - it will probably be where it's bolted to the body - corrosion is most likely, but it could also be cut or ripped. Disassemble every connection as you go and attach the wire until you find the problem. Logic, linear thinking and stubbornness are what you need. Post up your results, and sorry if this is a bit simplistic - I assume you are starting from naught. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin7799 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 your assumption is right, many thanks for the idiots guide, just what I needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Glad it's pitched right - don't want to condescend. I suggest you get the workshop manual - google it - also check the tech archive here. Then print out the circuit diagram, trace it with a pencil and work it through in your head. Write down where all the connections and components are in the vehicle ans you'll be 1/2 way there. Assuming a previous owner hasn't done something stupid. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 sorry, a bit of a novice here, (1995 defender 110) vulcan bomber - are these wires likely to be behind the intrument console? reiny - fuse for the petrol gauge?? stuck - voltage stabiliser - haven't a clue what that is but I'll look it up Many thanks to all Have a look in the engine bay, above the clutch master cylinder on the bulkhead, there will be a black wire on a ring terminal, clean that terminal and the surface underneath it as a starting point. Next, at the rear of the vehicle, on the inside, i the corners of the vehicle theres a cover plate over the lights. Remove this and then you'll see the wiring to the lights, look for a connector block with all black wires going to it, remove each wire and again, clean up and shove each wire back in... Then, clean the connection where the wire from the connector block meets the body work. Hope that helps, let us know how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Kevin 7799, the gauges, indicators and brake lights use the same circuit, hence the same fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Kevin 7799, the gauges, indicators and brake lights use the same circuit, hence the same fuse. If the fuse didnt work, nothing in the circuit would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin7799 Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 Hi Guys, its taken me a while to get around to looking at this, you know the story, demanding red head wife, 2 kids etc etc. Anyway - in the end i had the fuel gauge dropping every time i breaked, indicated, put the lights on and all it was was the earth to the rear windscreen wiper had rusted up and needed replacing. As it happens i was replacing the rear door and noticed it by chance, thanks for all of your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Voltage stabaliser behind the dash is another possibility Defender don't have a voltage stabiliser for the gauges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 I nearly had a heart attack when my 110 used to 'overheat' in the rain - with headlights on. Eventually I noticed that the fuel gauge also went up at the same time! I added an earth lead from the bulkhead to the engine which got rid of 90% of the problem. It seems to be a normal Defender thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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