Retroanaconda Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 One of the things on the list for my 90 is the fitment of a Td5 rear tank, which will free up the under-seat space for location of other goodies. I think I can sort the tank mounting & exhaust, and I should be able to figure out the fuel piping and sender wiring. What concerns me is the fuel filler. I'd rather not use an aftermarket filler, and I think the position of the Tdi filler is too low to put a pipe across, plus the path of the pipe might interfere with wheel movement. In this post Jason suggests making one, which is a viable option. However I thought perhaps I may be able to move the existing one over. If I were to drill out the spot welds holding the filler 'box' to the outer skin, I could then attach it (either rivet it or glue it, the latter preferred as it's neater) to the body further back and cut a new aperture. There would be some fiddling to do with the wheelarch inside but this in itself is not an issue, my problem comes with what to do with the resultant hole in the side of the car. So. How would you fill a hole in the aluminium panel? The top edge is (I think?) swaged over slightly, so that would have to be cut back to a flat surface. Is it feasible to simply bond a plate in from behind with a filler plate the shape of the missing hole in place (to bring it up flush) and then apply some filler to the cut line? My metalworking experience is limited, so any advice is appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Been there done that (With regard to the tank). Why don't you stick to the 2 tanks? I ran with a Y piece filler for a while with the hose going over the spring seat. It was ok, but didn't fill easily so I just cut an additional filler. Like you I didn't like anything out there and looked at all sorts. Even the 110 Hi-Cap filler cowl. Had it for a while but decided it was too big and just went for a marine filler. I put it off for 3 years but I should have done it from the start. Other disadvantages of the Y piece is on a step incline (rock step) fuel drains out of the main side tank and into the rear tank. Not a problem for you as your only going to have 1 tank. Why don't you fit a TD5 Tub if your going to only use the 1 filler at the back. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 Nothing wrong with the tub I have to be honest, and I am reluctant to disassemble the bodywork more than necessary! I don't think I need two tanks, the Td5 tank is a gallon or so bigger than the Tdi one so I'll gain a bit of range, but it's more that the positioning is so much better. It will free up the under-seat space for a storage box which will contain the air heater, compressor etc. etc. etc. The aftermarket (marine or otherwise) filler option is of course the easiest way, but I'm quite fond of the stock look so would like to replicate it. And regardless, it would still leave me with a hole to fill at the original fill point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Fair point. The TD5 tank holds 60L compared to the original 45L so that is a bonus. Storage space would be huge under there! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 For filling in the old hole, if you cant TIG or know a friend who can, I would go with bonding a piece in behind and filling the hole with another piece to bring it up flush, then apply plastic padding or P38 to the joint, sanding back and repainting as required. Series fuel filler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 You might be even better bonding it rather than welding, as there is less(zero) risk of panel distortion from heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 I've added a reply...on the other thread linked to at the top of the page DOH........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 For filling in the old hole, if you cant TIG or know a friend who can, I would go with bonding a piece in behind and filling the hole with another piece to bring it up flush, then apply plastic padding or P38 to the joint, sanding back and repainting as required. Series fuel filler? Yes, that was my plan. Good to know others think it would work. Just standard P38 body filler was what I was going to use. With another piece bonded in behind there the metal will be double thickness so I doubt there would be issues with panel vibration knocking the filler out. A Series filler is the last resort I guess, as it sort of looks standard. And I think you can put the earlier (pre-Td5) 90/110 fuel cap into that surround without issue as the bolt pattern looks similar. Les, you've done a good job there. Interested in why you thought the standard position (as per 90 Td5/Tdci) was too low? Or were you going to install it below the level of the wheel box (as it is at the front in Tdi vehicles)? In this case I think it would be too low yes, so my plan was to install it further up and box in the pipe as per later 90s. I can't Tig, and though I'm sure I could find someone who could, I don't think it's necessary. Bonding with Tiger Seal or similar will be more than strong enough, and I can always chuck some pop-rivets in if I feel so inclined. Thanks for the help chaps, I'll let you know how I get on when I get around to doing the job. Hopefully it will be in the next few weeks, got to finish swapping an engine in another Defender and then there's a few other jobs on the 90 to do first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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