PieEater3142 Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 mot time and brakes were listed as spongy. So have gone in to check the rear cylinders and after much swearing we managed to get the drum off only to find the shoes pivot out??? Looking at the manual and the rear of the drum, I can't find the normal spring and pin that I would expect to hold the shoes level so that they dont constantly rub. So how exactly should these work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 the return springs hook into the holes on the brake shoe central rib & fit between backplate & brake shoes. the spring with short coils & long bar between fits in the upper holes & sits below wheel cylinder, the other long coil spring fits in lower holes above abutment plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 OK, sorry western you've lost me. My shoes only have two springs on them at present. Will post pics in a sec what I did take earlier. I would normally expect a pin to go through from the back of the drum, through the shoe and have a spring and retaining clip on it to hold the shoe in place. At present I have a spring between the shoes at the top and a spring between the shoes at the bottom. That is all. Should I have anything else? The shoes are pulled together by these two springs which are face mounted and thus pull the shoes together at an odd angle at the front. Has the previous owner forgotten a part here? Or should one of the springs be round the other way? Rolling chassis was purchased with supposed refurbed axles so never looked at them really - other than fitting new track rod ends (boots had perished on the old ones). To be fair they are new drums, shoes and cylinders. Anyway, seems all my faults from the mot lie with these axles. Grrrr.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Correct 2 springs one at the top & one at the bottom, top spring has a hook, a short coil,a rod, coil,hook all as 1 part bottom spring has a hook, long coil,hook have a read of this thread & the links in my replies http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72357 it should explain clearly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 Magic, thanks ralph. Did try a google search with lr4x4 and the forum search but obviously was not using the right phrase. Answer is, the owner before me put the spring in back to front, however from the exploded parts diagram thats not exactly clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 This is how NOT to put them together then From your link Ralph, the top spring goes round the back of the shoes. Yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 This is how NOT to put them together then From your link Ralph, the top spring goes round the back of the shoes. Yes? yes both spring behind the shoes, to keep them clear of the rotating hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 both, right, magic thanks. take em out and flip em round then I will as soon as the soddin rain stops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 OK, sorted thanks once again to the board's knowledge. Never met any springs quite like those before mind. Alot of swearing to get the shoes in to the bottom. Also sorted out the wheel bearing at the same time two jobs done for the price of one (wouldnt have been able to swap shoes round without taking the wheel hub off). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 glad you got it sorted, happy to help, those springs are strong little things aren't they Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 my arm is still aching from fighting them... Amazingly, once the springs are on the right way round, you can adjust the brake shoes correctly Drivers side has been tightened one side at a time till lock, kick the pedal about a bit, then check, then back off a 1/8th of a turn till the wheel spins nicely. I can still hear the pads rubbing slightly but wheel turns easily. Assume I'm doing the right thing as they are new, this should bed them in properly right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 I wind the adjust right in till it's tight, then back off 2 clicks [done more by feel than sound] shoes should just rub slightly, Yes they will bed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 sounds about what i did but 1/8 of a turn rather than 2 clicks as mine dont click sounds like ive done it rougly right though. much apreciated. how often should i be checking them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 entirely your choice, haven't done mine since Sept, need to tweak mine up a bit & get some new brake fluid, cos I've run out of supply in my garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 So once a year when I flush the brakes then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmerboy_y2k Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 If you can't feel the adjuster click round, the grooves on it are probably worn. Which means they can slowly in adjust themselves as mine do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 I adjust mine roughly every 20,000 miles, and that's with drums all round on a 109, and have nice, sharp brakes. It doesn't need doing often unless you do a lot of off-roading, where dirt and water in the drums contaminate and abrade the pads and drums, needing cleaning out and adjustment far more frequently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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