dirtyninety Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Right, ive got to tow a laden trailer 150 miles trip at 7am on wednesday morning. about a month ago my rear wheel bearings were a bit slack, so i thought rather than change them id pop in some new units. Put them in and the nearside has been fine ever since. However the offside developed a squeal last week. Tonight i put in two new bearings and oil seal, but it still squeals!! Its packed to hell with grease and each bearing was coated and rolled in grease to cover all the rollers. Is the haynes manual correct in saying the stake nut should be torqued up to 210Nm/155flbs? It seems an outrageously high figure to me! I need to know reasonably quickly so i can sort it out tomorrow Ill go in the morning and buy new timken bearings and kit. all advice appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Are you sure its the wheel bearings squealing an not the brake pads? I've had that on my brothers 109 when the pads were fitted without any anti rattle springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 The TD5 bearings are supposed to be tightened to silly tightness as they are not adjustable and have a fixed length spacer between the bearings. I've heard some people convert to adjustable by removing the spacer and adding a lock nut ..... is your spacer missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 now this is another thing i was thinking, when my brakes are applied ever so slightly i get the same squeal. The is no anti rattle springs, and the pads do ever so slightly touch the disc. But it does it worse going round left hand bends when the weight is transferred onto that wheel. maybe the inside pad slides across? Cwazywabbit, no the spacer is present and correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 FYI - you can't just reuse the existing spacer after replacing bearings, you have to measure end float and adjust spacers accordingly. This is why most move to early style of locking nuts to save messing around and stocking with various spacers. The later methods is better as its more precise and removes human error, and done correctly the bearings will last longer. Fitting without correctly following spacer method normally results in damaging bearing as you over tighten and pinch bearing. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 FYI - you can't just reuse the existing spacer after replacing bearings, you have to measure end float and adjust spacers accordingly. This is why most move to early style of locking nuts to save messing around and stocking with various spacers. The later methods is better as its more precise and removes human error, and done correctly the bearings will last longer. Fitting without correctly following spacer method normally results in damaging bearing as you over tighten and pinch bearing. Cheers Steve Thats the nugget of information i needed, but didn't particularly want to hear! I'll revert to the early style to get me out this pickle, as i dont have the gauge to measure end float. So, just remove stake nut and outer bearing, pull the spacer out new bearing in nut, lock washer and nut. If it still squeals after that, it MUST be the break pad squealing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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