landrovermanuk Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 I've had a quick look but haven't found an answer to my problem so apologies if it's all ready on here... Right, I've got 3.9efi Auto in my 90. It started running rough so bought a new coil, cap and rotar arm. Trying to get the arm off I pulled the inside of the distributor apart after two failed attempts at rebuilding it I bought a new one. Any way had to convert it from a 3 pin plug to 2 pin to fit. I cut the plug off and loosely connected a couple of wires to get it running. Every thing ok, engine ran fine, pulled the dizzy out to solder the wires and then realised that I hadn't marked the direction of the rotor arm. I have put the dizzy back in and pulled it out half a dozen times or more moving the arm round until it has started. It starts but runs very rough, I've tried adjusting the angle of the dizzy to adjust the timing but it's not improving it much. I've tried rotating the rotor 180 degs to see if that helps but then it won't start at all. Due to the fan and shroud I can't get to the crank to turn it to tdc without a major strip down.... Any I deas or am I just going to move the rotor arm round one tooth at a time? Sorry it's so long winded and thanks for having a look and maybe a chuckle.... I'm blaming the kids....What's that for? Why are you doing that? How does this work? Why are you swearing at the car? Oh and I need it done tonight...lol Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Ok just had an idea. What if I roughly mark the plastic cover inside the dizzy with the 8 points of the cap outlets for the ht leads and turn it over. each time I turn it over mark off the point nad then move the rotor arm round to the next point. Once it's running I can then tune it by ear until it's running smoothly? Any pointers with that??? Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Suggest you don't mark the cap outside or inside as the spark may start tracking between the posts. If you want to mark the dizzy do so on the metal not the cap. If you can't get on to the pully bolt then you won't be able to find TDC with plug 1 out very easily. You could take the ht lead off the coil then pull plug one and gently using a screwdriver/wood/plastic rod see if you can feel the piston height. then take the screwdriver out and turn the engine over on the starter a flick of the switch try again and see if you can get near TDC, always take the screw driver out at every step though as you don't want to jam it/damage he engine, that will reduce the amount of trial and error but still could be 180 deg out. Another possible is to remove all the plugs and try to turn the engine over using the fanbelt to get to TDC on plug 1?? I have seen it done once before so it could work. Then you will be within 10 deg ish of the right place? Hopefully you will get a better answer soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 I'm in Essex. Where abouts are you If your not to far I could pop round and have a look. Been running a v8 for a while now !! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Thanks for your reply. I've been outside and now got her running. She's not perfect but I think it's good enough. I'm going to take her for a test run soon. I've tried advancing and retarding the timing. It either ran or didn't. She runs smoothly then has a little cough and splutter and then runs smoothly again. The whole reason for all this was that she was running fine when driving but was running a little rough and even dying when pulling up at lights etc. Sometimes she'd restart straight away other times would struggle. Last time this happened 2 or 3 years it was the coil, so that's what started all this...lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Sorry Andy missed your reply. I'm in Thundersley. That's a very kind offer. I'm going for a test run in a minute now the roads are a bit quieter. So fingers crossed. I really need her running smoothly by lunch tomorrow as I've got an outing planned... I've got a back up car if worse comes to worse but it's not a Land Rover so boring...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Right just got back. Might be running a little rich as there was a bit of a petrol smell from the exhaust, or could be petrol in the exhaust from all attempts to start her earlier. Out on the road there was a bit of a misfire under acceleration and she was hunting at the lights. Once up to 30 to 40 mph she ran fine. I only took her just over 1/2 mile to get some petrol, then half mile back. The fuel filter is a couple of years old but doubt it's that, can't think of anything else... Land Rovers you got to love them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Is it possible to strobe it in the morning to check the timing? If its running but maybe a little rich, mark dizzy and block with white board marker and gently adjust dwell angle until it runs sweet with a less fuel rich exhaust fume, could always run it by a garage and offer cash for timing and nox meter to do it right then mark her up so it don't happen again. Funny, I was having real issues running on gas and thought it was coil, cap, rotor, amp etc,. turned out to be Lambda sensor going to LPG ecu was breaking down!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 When you are turning the engine over, if the fan is in the way from the top, try turning the engine over from underneath a little at a time until you get to TDC. You keep having to stop and look, but it works. I do this on my RRC sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 I'm thinking of trying the local garages in the morning. I know the two closest only do MOTs on saturdays. So got to try further afield. I've tried adjusting the dwell angle. It either runs or it doesn't, I just can't seem to get that final bit to make it run sweetly. I've plenty of room so it's not that. I've heard that you can get a diode that you plug into the Lambda sensor wire so the ecu thinks it's working fine then you can remove the catylist. Don't know where to get one or how much though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 When you are turning the engine over, if the fan is in the way from the top, try turning the engine over from underneath a little at a time until you get to TDC. You keep having to stop and look, but it works. I do this on my RRC sometimes. I've looked at this I don't think there is enough room between the pully and the fan to get the socket on...I'm trying to get hold of a strobe gun for the morning.... I just hope it's something simple.... Thanks for the reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrovermanuk Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 Ok, got a timing lamp. Connected to battery and no1 ht lead. It only flashes once in a while, not constantly. What do you think. Dodgy lamp or is no1 only firing once in a while? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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