sussex-landy Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 My head gasket needs changing and while I have rebuilt a few V8s on my series the p38 4.0 looks a little messy. Anyone done it and any areas to look out for or jobs worth doing at the same time. Looking to get one of the full gasket sets with bolts and do it in a day, give the heads and rockers a good clean up. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 It's no different than the other Rover V8s, the plenum is just a lot bigger. There's one more gasket there than there was on the old ones, and that's all there is to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 As Ben said, basically the same engine, only a lot more tubework on top and some more piping for idle air ect. While you have the intake manifold off, have a close look at the camshaft and tapperts and check how much slack there is in the timing chain. I'd put a spanner on the crank and see how the cam responds to changes in direction. If there is any noticeable delay, that means the chain has stretched. Changing is not such a big job, just like on an older RV8. You can even change the cam with the engine in the car, but space is very limited. Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 just remember where everything goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sussex-landy Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 Thanks, I take digital pics at stages so I can check where it all goes got used to doing it on my hybrid which had nothing standard. When you say timing chain I wasn't going to do that yet as I shouldn't need to take the cover off for the heads so wanted to prove everything was good with new gaskets before working on the timing cover oil leaks and a new chain. I would prefer to finish the head gaskets before I start another job then do the oil change and timing just in case there is a liner issue and I px it. Thanks Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sussex-landy Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Looking through rave for torque setting for heads and I was not sure what this means. get to 20nm then add 90 degrees seams a little vagueanyone know of a specific value like the 3,5 v8 had Cylinder head bolts: +* Stage 1 20 Nm ................................. 15lbf.ft Stage 2 Then 90 degrees ................................. Stage 3 Further 90 degrees ................................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 Land Rover introduced stretch bolts just before the P38 for the cylinder head bolts. That's why new bolts have to be used when doing the heads, and the reason for the 90 degrees etc. I think that the bolts changed around the time the serpentine front end came in and the heads went to 10 bolts instead of 14. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sussex-landy Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 Got down to the injection manifold which will be coming off today but wanted to know if anyone puts the heat shields back on the exhaust manifolds as mine didn't play ball so got opened like a can of tuna not sure it needs much shielding or if I should get new ones. also the plenum gaskets looks a little worn and bent with some black sealant type stuff so wondering if I should get as new one as I suspect this has been opened before due to how loose some of the bolts were which on the injection manifold is a little surprising especially considering mine is a 1 owner vehicle so could have had some minor issues found then sold on, still have my fingers crossed it wont be a slipped liner or cracked heads might even be the bolts have been loose and loosened off even more on the runs up and down to the alps since I bought it. I got a bunch of what looks like valve guide seals any changed these before and are they easy to do and worth doing, never had stuff like this on my old 3.5 V8. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 The heat shields aren't really necessary, just make sure the plug wires are out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sussex-landy Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 If the liners are loose but dont have visible signs of dropping is there any good places that can refit decent liners to the block if I take it out. Also is there any stuff you can put in the coolant to seal them not that I would with cracked heads or blocks but liners might be worth it. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sussex-landy Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 Done the gaskets and put it all back together 100% but won't start just turns and no fuel comes out the two feeds eieither to the injection rail or auto choke in the air intake. It's was all good before I took the heads off, even opened the bleed valve on the backnof the injection rail and put the key at position 2 a few time to give the pump time to pump fuel and yes there is fuel in the tank. Is there some process to get it moving or would something cut out the pump even though its turning over fine. Thanks Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Did you reconnect the crank sensor if you disconnected it (you probably did, IIRC it's mounted to the LHS head)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sussex-landy Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 I did disconnect something on the back of the lhs head (as your sat facing forwards in the vehicle) but I am sure I reconnected it, its a little strange as no fuel comes out either feed and I would have expected it to squirt out with the bleeder open. Will check it all again today, been through RAVE this morning and there is nothing special like with the diesels so should just pump the fuel up unless I have missed a sensor off. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbowler Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 The heat shields aren't really necessary, just make sure the plug wires are out of the way. Strongly suggest you fit the exhaust shields, the heat build up will melt the bottom of the airflow meter pipes Chris bowler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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