gadget Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I need to shim up the CV joint end float. Do i need to use a DTI or is a rough guess at the end float gap ok? Obviously the reason i'm asking is because i don't own a DTI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I don't think it is critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I need to shim up the CV joint end float. Do i need to use a DTI or is a rough guess at the end float gap ok?Obviously the reason i'm asking is because i don't own a DTI What do you mean by c/ v end float. Do you mean the gap betwwn the hub flange and the circlip. If so I set mine with a gap there at full lock. I too don't think it's critical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 The TD5 i helped change a wheel bearing on last week had two shims between the circlip and the drive flange, one of the shims was VERY thin, which suggests its supposed to be done fairly accurately. Once installed there was no gap, and the circlip required some effort to get it to go back on and seat correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 There is a specified end float as you have alluded to. It should not be very tight to get the circlip on. The end float is set by the length of the stub axle and the wear on the bronze bush. If you haven't changed these parts then don't worry about it, set it as it was before. If you have then in the absence of a DTI I would set it just short of being tight - so everything is free to rotate but there is minimal end float in/out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 Yes, i do mean the gap between the circlip and drive flange. Having rebuilt the axle completely the gaps are very different from the original. The original shims are no longer shims anyway, they're now tiny rings of corrosion. The haynes figures are set the float between .08mm and .25mm, but that fine book also said that the swivel preload was over 4kg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 4kg preload is for railko bushes AFAIK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 4kg preload is for railko bushes AFAIK. Yup. And it feels too tight on conical bearings, but the haynes book doesn't mention any other figure. 1.16kg - 1.46kg was what i found on line and that feels ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 yeh the landrover manual gives that 1.16 to 1.46kg figure for taper bearing swivels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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