changread Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Hi all, My 2002 TD5 clutch pedal went bang to the floor when holding on the clutch up a steep hill in traffic, was in 1st gear so got to the side. While waiting for recovery I pumped the pedal all the time and got it back enough to drive home and it still works. Any ideas? best I can tell a replacement clutch is around £850. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Unlikely to be mechanical failure, probably the hydraulics. Check for fluid loss, if there is a puddle underneath and low fluid it is probably the slave cylinder leaking, if there is no fluid loss then it may be the master cylinder seals with an internal fault. If you have brake fluid in the footwell then it's an external m/cyl leak. If it only happened on the hill and it came back and stayed back then it could have just sucked some air if the fluid level was low. I've a notion that the Td5 clutch draws fluid from the brake reservoir, but I might have dreamed that. Mine is an auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 As said, if it came back even slightly it will be hydraulic, the cylinders are about £25 each and it's worth doing both together regardless of which one has gone (the other won't be far behind). Bleeding them is an absolute nightmare, i've never had any success without using a pressure bleeder, the last one i did i reverse bled it (pumped fluid through the bleed nipple back to the reservoir). Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Hi BogMonster, You are correct. The brake and clutch do share the same resevoir. Re Bleeding of clutch (or brakes) I have never had a problem on any of the vehicles I've bled using the Gunson EzeBleed. Works off the pressure of a tyre and is continually forcing fresh fluid through the system till the bleed screw is closed. Only about £18. Griff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
changread Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Hi all thanks for all your help, replaced clutch slave and master cylinder and a perfect clutch I now have. Once again thanks. Land rovers!!!I now have another problem - water temp. gauge after Turing on the ignition the gauge goes back to the stop and the red over heat light comes on. Replaced the sender with a genuine land rover one still the same, Oh no! start the engine the cooling fan comes on and it runs at 1000rpm- Help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 The gauge is driven by the engine ECU on a Td5, so I would guess either the ECU is defective or it's receiving a false "hot" signal either through a short or a break in the wiring to the sender depending on which way it goes. I can't remember whether resistance increases or decreases as it gets hotter, but if say it increases with increasing temp then it would be an open circuit (maybe a broken wire or damaged connector); if it goes the other way then it's probably a wiring short.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
changread Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Hi all re. water temp gauge - my man with a computer had a poke about and found the wires feeding the sender burnt and shorted out. Repaired and a new sender fitted all ok now. I wish that was it, but no - I previously stated the cooling fan was running, I was wrong it was the air conditioning fan running and still is all time with the conditioning turned off. probably a coincidence. When turned on it works fine, my man with a computer has no fault codes. What could it be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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