Jump to content

Saying hello


Wytze

Recommended Posts

Hello to everyone on here.

My name is Wytze and I am from the Netherlands.

I bought a basketcase in December , and a nice 109 stawag last saturday.

In it's registration , it's still a petrol version, but there is a 2 1/4 diesel in the bay. I want de diesel in the registration first.

Then the plan is to change the 2 1/4 for a 3,5 ti mazda with a ZF 4speed autobox. And ofcource insulate the hell out of it.

Here is a picture of her:

post-54711-0-82319000-1378197933_thumb.jpg

Will be reading a lot on here, and try to minimize the stupid questions :blink:

But if i have qustions i know i will be in good hands.

regards,

Wytze

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a virtual look round your car, it really looks very well build... But you allready know that.

In mine i plan to have a 3.5litre mazda which i allready have. It's mated to a hp22 4speed with a borg warner.

I tryed to do some calculating. If i want 60 mph at 2000 rpm i would need, 31" tire's , 3.54 diffs and a 14D lt230.

Groet,

Wytze

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3.54 diffs into a Series vehicle are simple, even the Salisbury is a fairly simple swap. I guess you don't need the hill climbing ability of lower gears! ;)

There are few stupid questions - it's wise to ask for advice, even if you think you already have the answer. There are plenty of stupid answers, though, so cross check everything!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that, it has to do a little of everything. for me and the family,mostly going out on holiday's and weekend's.

She won't be doing more than a little langing, and pull a double horsebox.

But i think in low gear she will have enough for what i want.

I allso read that changing to 3.54 diff's will require other shafts? cause mine is from 78.

Groet,

Wytze

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, your shafts will fit 3.54 diffs. All Salisbury diffs have 24 splines. You just need to make sure the front diff is 10 spline - that was standard on RRCs, Discoverys and Defenders up to about 1994 (around the introduction of the 300Tdi). I believe that any axle with the thick five-bolt drive flanges and plastic cones or domed all-in-one flange/shaft set are 10 spline, and that the thing star flange with small plastic cone or flat all-in-one flange/shaft are 24 spline, but that may be inaccurate. The rear diff will need to come from any Salisbury equipped 110.

Reading manuals on Salisbury diff installation is worrisome, but it's actually pretty easy - I did it on my 109. Remove the prop shaft and the pinion flange, half shafts and rear cover. Use the spreader tool, undo the bearing caps and lift the (very heavy) diff carrier assembly out of the housing, followed by the pinion and its inner bearing.

With the spreader still in place, install the new diff carrier with its bearings, then slacken the spreader to check for free rotation of the carrier in its bearings without any play. If that's OK, and it usually is, spread the axle again, pull the carrier back out and install the new pinion with its inner bearing. As long as there is no damage or significant wear to the races, don't bother disturbing the outer races already fitted to the casing - it's not ideal to "mix and match" bearings and races, but if they're in good order, then it'll do no harm as the production tolerances are very tight. Fit the new pinion and then the carrier and check for backlash - the pinion height will be correct already as they are also made very accurately; the pinion bearing shims are for casing inaccuracy, and this has already been set with the original shims for the old diff. If there is excess backlash between the carrier and pinion, you'll need to transfer shims from under one carrier bearing to the other side, but this is also unlikely and I have not heard of anyone having to do it - the diffs always seem to be a direct swap with no shim adjustment. On reassembly, do the pinion flange nut up to 150'lbs and it'll be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, I thought that i could just change the whole of the diffcarrier... But thats no option then...

Must find me a front axle from a RRC then... and a rear from a defender and check for play before i buy...

Allso, I read the thread from discomicky...... think thats a very good way to convert to disk brakes...

I must say, i really like it here... its good to read so much knowledge and experience...

Groet,

Wytze

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The front diff is in a removable carrier, so is as simple a swap as you thought, but the Salisbury rear diff case is integral to the axle - you need to swap the innards over. Like I said, it sounds scary but is in fact incredibly simple. The worst problem is having to remove the speedo for recalibration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, I thought that i could just change the whole of the diffcarrier... But thats no option then...

Must find me a front axle from a RRC then... and a rear from a defender and check for play before i buy...

Allso, I read the thread from discomicky...... think thats a very good way to convert to disk brakes...

I must say, i really like it here... its good to read so much knowledge and experience...

Groet,

Wytze

Thanks for the vote of confidence!

Daan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy