Reiny Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I removed and re-installed my engine for a clutch change last week. everything went without a hitch but I am a little bit concerned about engine temperature. The engine seems to be reaching operating temperature much quicker than it did of late. For instance, on my daily commute to work (approx 5 miles - 20 to 25 minutes drive depending on traffic) the temperature rarely rises above 70 degrees. Today I got to work and the needle was around the 85 degree mark. Hoses are warm (not hot) to the touch. Furthermore in winter, the needle usually sits spot on the 80 degree mark. During the past 3 days or so it's sitting closer to the 90 degree mark (pretty much what it does in summer). At no point (so far) did the temperature climb past 90 degrees even though I drove up a few steep hills. Should I start worrying? I am a stickler for engine temperatures and hate it when I see the temperature gauge climbing past the mid-way point. Something that may be worth noting... when I refilled the coolant I did what i normally do i.e. remove both filler plugs (radiator and thermostat housing), filled until coolant free of bubbles emerged from both orifices and siphoned off whatever was left in the reservoir above the half way mark. Two days later I removed the filler plug on the thermostat housing and no coolant poured out. i topped the reservoir up by less than half a litre and it overflowed again. Do you think I have an airlock somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Sounds as if you have, the only way I've found to get all the air out was to make up a very cheap funnel out of PVC drain pipe, starting with a 1/2" BSP socket and then going from 1/2 PVC to 4" pvc and a short length of PVC pipe - all glued, allow the engine to idle with this screwed into the plug on the thermostat housing and fill it with coolant -the air will bubble out and the system will fill up, after about 15 mins turn the engine off and remove the funnel and screw in the plug, you should have no more air locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Thats a neat idea, I like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 wow! great idea! will try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Another thing. I have read time and time again to set the heater to hot when filling the system. Admittedly I forgot to do that this time and it was on the cold setting. why should setting it to hot help eliminate air locks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 The heater isnt controlled with a flow valve on earlier defenders but a flap in the heater matrix box to direct air. There is however a flow valve on puma engine defenders. I am not sure about TD5's. So for 300's will make no difference. Jad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 My thoughts exactly. Thanks for clarifying Jad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Air locks are often due to the small diameter bleed hoses from the thermostat housing and the top of the rad to the expansion tank being blocked. Try clearing them out and refitting them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 You took the words right out of my mouth Snagger. I was going to ask what those hoses are for and yes I believe that they are blocked. The ends were split so i trimmed them, then i had a hard time to fit them because there was a layer of lime scale (or whatever it was). Can i use fuel hose? if so, what's the diameter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Fuel hose of the right diameter will be fine. I don't know the size, but if you take the old hose to an autofactors, you'll be able to match it up easily. Even Halfords sell the stuff. Remember to save the jointing piece that forms the crux of the J-shape of the three lengths of hose, and clear it through with tooth picks or similar to get the rubbish out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 I bought a complete unit made by allmakes and was a bit disappointed. One of the hoses leaked slightly from the crimp. I cable-tied it as a temporary fix. Tomorrow I'll remove the pipes again, cut the crimp and fit a proper hose clip. Temperature-wise, I don't think that I have experienced much difference. I trashed the old girl hard for about 5-6 miles. There were no hills though. Temp reached approx. 85 degrees and stayed there. I need to try it on a couple of steep hills to put my mind at rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 Tried it out this morning and I think everything is back to where it should be. During the past few days, during my 5 mile trip to work, temperature would reach approx 85 degrees. This morning, needle climbed to a tad over 70. So I think all's sorted now thanks for your tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
currymunster Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Not tried it myself yet but I believe that the bleed plug from a domestic radiator fits the thermostat thread so you can bleed it that way. I got one already but not fitted it yet!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Domestic radiators are unheard of in this part of the world mate It never gets cold enough to use them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
currymunster Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Domestic radiators are unheard of in this part of the world mate It never gets cold enough to use them Oopps I did not notice your location Heres a link - you might be able to order one in??? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-X-Radiator-Bleed-Valve-Air-Vent-Brand-New-o-ring-seal-/181302670310?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item2a367b33e6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Not tried it myself yet but I believe that the bleed plug from a domestic radiator fits the thermostat thread so you can bleed it that way. I got one already but not fitted it yet!! 1/2" BSP IIRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Interesting indeed. Never heard of this gizmo. Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 The round plastic "T" piece on the two air bleed lines is a mystery, why its made that way I dont understand, I replaced it with a 1/4" refrigeration "T" piece (they have "long legs" and it works fine, on a recent trip over the Great Victorian Desert from Coober Pedy to Ilkurluka we experienced daily temperatures of over 45 degrees C and never used a drop of coolant, the engine ran from 90 - 115 Deg. C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Going back to my funnel, first get the Disco on flat ground, remove both the radiator and thermostat plugs, fill the header tank to the half way point (its normal level) at this stage coolant will be flowing out of the radiator, fit the radiator plug. Next screw on the header tank cap. Fit the funnel into the thermostat housing and top it up with coolant, run the engine untill there are no more air bubbles. remove the funnel and screw in the plug. Job done and no more air locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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