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ZF4HP22 - Kick down adjustment/Questions


Les Brock

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Hi Chaps,

Correct adjustment procedure required for a 200/300 Tdi not a V8, if its any different :lol:

Land Rover Workshop Manuals _ 300Tdi Discovery _ 44 - AUTOMATIC GEARBOX - ZF _ ADJUSTMENT _ KICKDOWN CABLE ADJUSTMENT.pdf :rtfm:

Is this info correct ?, as mine appears to be the opposite way round

as in ???

A = 6 threads

B = 28mm

C = 1mm

The shifter is also out of allignment as it wont go into 1st because the shifter as you move it rearwards runs out of console before it engages

Anyone got a piccy of there linkage to allow me to cross check mines installed correctly

Now bearing in mind its on axle stands, will the auto behave normally and shift correctly or does it need engine load ....flippin new fangled work of the devil thing they are !!!!

Ta :i-m_so_happy:

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Where do I begin Les? I have a very similar setup on my 90, a 300Tdi with auto which was originally fitted with an EDC pump. I presume that you, like me, now have a manual pump and two throttle cables - one for the kick-down and one for the throttle.

Mine was already cobbled together when I bought it. I found that the amount of travel on the Defender throttle peddle/cable appears to be greater than that on a Discovery as, with the operating arm fitted as pictured in the .pdf, the kick-down cable from the gearbox runs out of travel before full throttle. I discovered that by flipping the operating crank/lever between the cables I was able to get the kick-down to work correctly with my throttle - well, more or less - in other words so that the kick-down is pulled about half as much as the throttle as opposed to twice as much. I can now use full throttle without over extending the kick down cable, it no longer sticks, it does kick down and still changes sensibly at lower throttle openings.

If you have a similar setup to me then I would be inclined to throw away the setup manual and do it by eye/feel.

It is apparently possible to buy the correct levers/brackets to run the kick-down from the pump as on older Tdi engines though ISTR feeling that the cost was unjustified...

HTSH

Chris

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On a V8 'C' is 1.5mm, but I find it better on mine with about 3.5mm, as it raises the shift point to about 5500rpm (and probably makes up for some stretch), given yours won't get there 1mm sounds about right -this is the critical figure, I am pretty sure anyways, as it determines the tension on the cable.

So... basically put it where it works for you and doesn't stick :)

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The critical measurement is the 1mm extension with throttle on idle stop , you then need to have a bell crank that the kickdown cable connects to and the position (radius) should be that which allows full pedal travel ( ie opens throttle to maximum) at the same time that the kickdown cable gets to full travel. I have 300tdi auto in a 90 with edc (so retains immobiliser) but the fly by wire TPS is mounted to the bulkhead. The acc pedal has two bell cranks , one operates the tps by cable the other operates the KDC . HTSH

BTW you should feel the Kick down cable "jump" at just before full cable travel

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Cheers for the replies chaps,

Not sure what the linkage is on mine, I'll take some pics, but looking on the web it looks notheing like the pics I can find :lol:

mine does not seem to reach the kick down "jump" point so will be looking at that at the weekend :rolleyes:

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  • 1 year later...

May I restart this thread, and ask just how critical is the 1mm measurement? Can it be more? I have changed the EDC injector pump for a mechanical one and find the throttle travel is longer, leading to problems with the kick down cable, causing harder later changes. I have made a new lever at the connection between the kick down cable and the cable from the peddle to change the ratio of the two arms, and now the throttle is fully open without over pulling the kick down cable. But with the end of the outer of the kick down cable at the 28mm stated in the manual, I can not get the gap between the crimp and the cable less than about 3mm, even with the cable from the throttle fully slack. The kick down cable inner does not want to pull in any more to reduce the gap. Does this matter or must the relaxed position be 1mm? I assumed the 1mm is to ensure the cable is not still tight at closed throttle, and I am sure that given the amount of wear in the old lever there was more than1mm there before, but I do not want to cause a gearbox problem. I am after smooth changes at fair low revs rather than hard performance. Before the throttle position sensor went bad I could hardly feel the changes and would like to restore that situation.

Any advice would be appreciated.. .

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Yes it can be made more to make the box hold onto a gear longer - I have done this on a couple of V8s, to do two things: compensate for cable stretch and as the V8s were modified, it moved the change point more into the power band of the engine.

I think I have around 3.5mm on mine.

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Correct setting of the KD cable is essential to get the gearbox to change at the correct points , if not enough the pressure in the box will not be correct , if too much pull you will get high and hard changes .

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