landylro Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I seem to be plagued with issues accross both my landrovers at present maybe they have decide to take a xmas break !!I just rebiult my 2003 V8, new pistons rings, bore hone, camshafts, rockers, lifters, all bearings water pump, oil pump all new hoses etc etc. All bearings were plastiguaged and a lot of time taken to do as close to perfect a rebiuld as possible.I Ran the cam in for around 20 mins at 2500 approx rpm and engine ran fine with no noise using an SAE30 oil. Changed oil filter oil to 10w40 ( with 1220 ppm zinc )as recommended for my conditions and am not sure when exactly the noise developed but at around 80km I noticed what I thought was a tappet noise only when the engine reaches around 94-100c ( this is about the max temperature based on ECU info from the inlet manifold temp sensor).I thought perhaps it could be a valve lifter which as unlikley as it seemed I changed all the valve lifters anyway for another new set!!!The noise still exists and if anything has worsened as I have now driven 400KM ( also now changed oil and went from Penrite to Castrol same spec but no change to noise) I have also have a significant oil leak from the front of the sump gasket ( yes new gaskets were used and appropriate sealants where specified) only once the engine is hot. Its been suggested crankcase is pressurizing same issue happens with oil filler cap removed not sure if that affects it as I dont understand the crankcase pressurisation possibility.It has been suggested to me its a dropped liner but I had read on the Robinson US website that the V8's from 2003 on dont drop liners due to a manufacturing change in the block by Landrover to try an address the issue. One ssupposed local expert has told me what Roninson states is wrong and the blocks never changed in respect of location of the liners ..... Motor doesnt use coolant. Have run engine removing one spark plug lead at a time to see if the noise changes but the noise stays the same.The noise is definetly temp related as there is absolutly none on start up or until engine gets hot, noise getting worse the hotter the engine gets.At the moment ther only option I seem to have is to remove and strip the engine and fit Darton sleeves.... note the people that did the heads and all the block work including a light skim on the block didnt find anything to indicate slipped liners. All they found was an unusually ovality on the central cylinders not on the thrust side but on the opposing cylinder walls which nowone could explain.So far my wife tells me I have spent the princely sum of 20K AUS( yes this car has had a lot of new bits,...) on this car ( yep I have spared no expense) and as much as I dont want to do another engine removal/strip etc I am too commited to this car not to get it 100%.Appreciate all your help and ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 So you are in OZ. If the bores were oval why did you just hone them? The correct way would have been fitting top hat liners while you are there. Back to your noise, what does the oil pressure look like when cold and when the noise starts and when the noise is very loud? And after all of that, without hearing the noise it is a bit hard to try and diagnose. Also what brand of parts did you buy? After the mashining work was done have you painstakingly opened all oil gallerys and cleaned them, have you cleaned your crank oil gallerys propperly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Care to post a video of the noise? Have you looked at exhaust leaks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I think I would have to try a thicker oil just to see if it made a difference. Cheap test compared to stripping it back down. My RV8 3.5 oldy runs 20-50? And I can't think of anything that is going to be annoyed by thicker oil. Broken rings can tick like a tappit. Normally tappits are noisy at tickover when the pressure is low. I swear one of my new ones was acting daft for a while. I have got a fearsom exhaust blow when I rev and work it hard. Knew I shouldn't have put gaskets on The only ticking we had was valve timing so bad on a 2 litre side valve the piston was just clipping the valve. I think it would disintergrate a V8 overhead valve though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landylro Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 The engine was checked by specialist engine machinists but they are 150KM's away so can't get them to hear it although they admit theres probably not much point. , engine was meticulously rebiult, lots of time spent preparing all main components block heads crank etc by steam cleaning including oil cap rocker covers manifolds dip stick dip stick tube you name it we cleaned it.. small brushes through all oil and water gallerys , crank block etc making sure everything was spotless, bearing tolerance to specs checked everything corecttly lucbricated etc etc we were cautious about a speck of anything getting intot he engine... We spent over half a day cleaning the already realtively clean parts we got from being machined, then 2 days tro put the engine together, you can wack an engine togtehr I guess but we checked all tolerances and cleaned/chased all key threads after so much effort etc its why I am a bit Mildly miffed and stumped at what the issue is... Not the first engine I have rebiult first to have this issue though. Oil pressure 4.5 x 100 bar at start up moving to about ,.8 when hot 94C at idle fitted external VDO oil pressure guage. So oil has been no problem new oil gears although it really didnt need them and all parts from Turner engineering i.e pistons, ALL bearings valve lifters, rockers camshact etc etc... nothing cheap used on this far from it and EVERYTHING replaced. I also had a proffessional mechanic helping who has biult a number of engines. The bores were not so oval or worn as to require anything mnore than a 2 thou hone so why rebore , the liner issues were largekly resolved by the changes made to these later so long as the liners were fitted correctly and mine were checked. I thoughyt it was a long shot asking here as everyone inoloved professsioanlly with the motor trade hasnt been much more help except to say strip it down and identiify the issue anything else is a guess. Not to keen on thicker oil in a new tight motor although it may get away with it. I run the same oil in my other LR V8 and it the LR specced oil here...so cant be that. We will try an tie the noise to a cylinder by doing some spark testing matched to noise then check top an bottem end of that cylinder which will give us the issue. thanks anyway. Happy New year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Look dont take this the wrong way, its not personal, I am very passinate about this product and persoinally think if you are a ordinary or specialist engine builder other than Rover you may burn your fingers, your friend that helped you has he rebuild Land Rover V8 engines before, and you? What I am saying is did you use a workshop overhaul manual? Every manufacturer has his own little tricks. All the conrods dont face to the front of the engine etc. If you are confident about the cleanlyness then it seems something may be assembled wrong or missed during inspection, but again not hearing the noise physically makes it very very hard to diagnose. NEVER EVER ASSUME PARTS ARE CLEAN WHEN THEY COME FROM THE MASHINE SHOP, they do look clean because they are absolutely cleaned BEFORE any machining and work is done so they can do their work propperly, all the mashining shavings and crank grinding shavings are still in the components after their work, they dont have the time to clean again, it is the assemblers responsibility for that, that is the reason for asking. Did you prime the oil pump? Did you have oil pressure before you fired up the engine? Ooo I know there are a few here that will tell me I am way over the top making sure oil pressure is there before starting a engine, we can have this conversation over a BBQ later. What is the oil pressure at 1500rpm hot? What is the oil pressure at 2000rpm hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cress Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I have had an incident with a V8 Rover, not the LR. The engine was rebuilt, oil pump primed with loads of vaseline etc. The motor ran fine with a healthy oil pressure. however after running for a while it developed an unusual squeaking noise, about once every 2 revs. It turned out that one of the "NEW" rocker shafts I had fitted had an oil feed hole missing. Not to say thats the problem, but it can be something as simple as that. Can you identify where in the engine the noise is coming from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 So whats the verdict? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Still no result? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
affiliate Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I have this very same issue. Doesn't tick under load ie up a hill and doesn't tick when cold. Would love to know what the issue was before i start throwing cash I dont have at this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
affiliate Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I have a 2004 d2a v8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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