Ryan Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Now that I am three months into my Disco ownership and membership to this forum, I am seeing various modifications coming to my attention that I originally thought I would not bother about (the art of pursuasion is strong is this forum! ). One of those improvements I have been thinking about is a 2 inch lift. I've seen a number of kits on the web - some with and some without cranked trailing arms. Are they a necessity on a 2 inch lift? Does anyone have any suggestions for good kits that won't break the bank? Also, will it be something I can fit myself in my carpark or am I going to have to bribe someone with access to a workshop and big boys tools? Another one will be fitting some extra lighting - spots & fogs (for those night time greenlaning adventures ). I don't like nudge/bull bars, so will probably fit them to a light bar. Where's best? On the roof or on the bumper? Also, has anyone utilised the panel where the sunroof controls would be if you had one for lighting switchgear? If so, how easy was the intall? Thanks in advance, Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budgie Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Hi Ryan, You don't have to fit cranked trailing arms with a 2" lift, but they increase the drop on the rear axle and ease the strain on the chassis bushes. A cheaper alternative is a "kicker plate" that MM 4x4 sell. You're more likely to need cranked front radius arms to regain stable steering and stop the thing from wondering all over the road. But it's best to do the lift first and then drive it to see what it's like as not all need this. The best lift kits seem to be OME, but they cost a wee bit more. The rest are about the same quality using Bearmach springs and either Pro-comp or De Carbon shocks. You may find that after you fit the lift then some of the suspension bushes will show signs of ware, this is because they have been settled in one position for ages and now you've move the angles, so you may need to keep an eye on them. If you go for a kit then make sure it comes with the front shocker turret securing rings as the studs on the old ones always break!! Extended brake flexy pipes may also be required if you are likely to be doing some off-roading that involves getting the suspension to it's full articulation, just to be on te safe side - you don't want to snap a line in the middle of the Plain!! All you really need to do the job is spanners, jack, axle stands, socket set WD40 (soak the old shocker nuts for about a week before you do the job) and a pair of spring clamps. As for the lights, I've got a pair of spots on an A-bar on the front, another pair on the roofrack but also a pair of floods on the roof as well. The floods allow me to have them on without blinding the vehicle in front and I got them from a truck place down St John's Road in Hedge End, about halfway down opposite the playing field. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Angle grinder to cut the top nuts off front shockers saves a lot of hassle, and a big stilsons to hold the shocker to allow you to unbolt the bottom mounts is also essential. Otherwise concur with everything above. I actually only fitted a 1.5" lift to mine and find it flexs better than some 2" lifts as there is less spring to compress on the up side. Used a combination of Bearmach blue springs and Procomp shocks. Have no complaints. Also no handling issues and no need for extended hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 light bar, i got mine from greenlane4x4 on eblag. from memory it was just a bit under £100 delivered including the spots. i've just got spacers for my lift, you get the clearance, but no extra rear flex - need longer brakehoses on the front only. i doubt you'll need to worry about the loss of castor, i found changing to MTs gave more handling issues. all i noticed was the steering got lighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waveydave Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I have 4" lift now based on the procomp 2" lift kit and my own spacers.And a pair of crancked trailing arms. Very happy with it no caster problems on the steering so far,and i have done about 40,000 miles on it so far. 2" Pro Comp kist gives good flex although you start to kill bushes but hey thats what happens in a comp car. I also have extra long hoses and they need to be longer for phase two of the hunt for flex,Also have dislocation cones front and rear. I found even with the 2" spring kit i needed to space or remove the antiroll bars as the links flipped inside out(guess which option i took?)Also the stock front prop was not up to it resulting in having to make a high angle one.Once that issue was sorted i went up by anouther 2". No extra lights yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 well you dont need lights when your eyes are closed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddyplugger Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 One of those improvements I have been thinking about is a 2 inch lift. I've seen a number of kits on the web - some with and some without cranked trailing arms. Are they a necessity on a 2 inch lift? Does anyone have any suggestions for good kits that won't break the bank? Also, will it be something I can fit myself in my carpark or am I going to have to bribe someone with access to a workshop and big boys tools? Initially I thought a lift would be a good idea, until someone asked the question: Why? If the honest answer is to look smart, then a fit some larger diameter tyres, say 235/85x16's, they wont break the bank, easy to fit without big tools and then lift is under the diff (where you need it). When you do evetually get round to lifting it, and lets face it they do look nice B) , you already have the tyres. (In my opinion, a 2" lift without larger tyres doesnt look quite as pretty!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waveydave Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 well you dont need lights when your eyes are closed? Eyes closed is the only way. Helps the seat twichogauge work better ,more feel that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 Muchos thanks to eveyone, This all gives me something to think about. The lift is probably something I'll do when my current set of tyres (205's) are getting near the end of their life, and I will upgrade to bigger and probably muddier. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Helps the seat twichogauge work better ,more feel that way do you mind im about to eat i dont NEED that image! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 Speaking of tyres, if I get taller ones, are there adaptors available to go into the gearbox to correct the speedo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Speaking of tyres, if I get taller ones, are there adaptors available to go into the gearbox to correct the speedo? You need FRC3310 (speedo gear for 7.50 tyres). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Just a note, but taller tyres will give you the lift, but you will get bodywork interference issues, so you may need to think about a lift and some arch trimming as well, just to keep the tyres off the bodywork. I have 255/75-16 on mine, and had to trim the rear arches a bit. If you are going to fit 235/85-16 then you will definitely need to remove some bodywork... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 how much you need to cut off is a suck it & see problem as well. i know of a disco with 235/85 colways that just needed a camel cut. with my 235/85s ive had to take about 1.25" off every arch after doing a camel cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevster555 Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 how much you need to cut off is a suck it & see problem as well. i know of a disco with 235/85 colways that just needed a camel cut. with my 235/85s ive had to take about 1.25" off every arch after doing a camel cut. I run 255/70R16 Machos on my DiscoI running on 7J standard rims and didnt have to do the full Camel Cut. All I have done is made some brackets (similar to what the Yanks do on DiscoWeb) and just took the sharp corner off the rear arch. I was primed to do the Camel Cut but sitting there with the dremel I chickened out - anyway glad I didnt as I found I didnt need it. On full articulation on the rear it catches very slightly but from what I can make out each vehicle does diffrenlt things.... BTW - They caught before I replaced for a 1" lift and now I just dont notice. Heres some pics on http://blackcountrylaners.co.uk/photos/kev...es/default.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damoace Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 how much you need to cut off is a suck it & see problem as well. i know of a disco with 235/85 colways that just needed a camel cut. with my 235/85s ive had to take about 1.25" off every arch after doing a camel cut. Silly question- Whats a "Camel Cut". If its a means to get hooge wheel tyre combo's on then I'm interested.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waveydave Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 camel cut is where you trim the rear edge of the rear arch. No good for me i had to trim between 1.25" and 2" off various parts of my arches to get the 285/75/16 MT's in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 here is a normal disco rear arch & a camel rear arch showing the difference. it was only done on the rear arch so camel discos could fit 30.5" or 31" (depends on year i think) tyres. i cant remember how far back you go from the bottom of the arch though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted November 14, 2006 Author Share Posted November 14, 2006 And another thing..... If I get 235/85s, what extra height under the diff will I get, will it be at least what I lost when I fitted QT guards? What is the biggest size I can go to without cutting the bodywork? What range of tyre sizes will the speedo adaptor work with? At the moment I'm tubeless, is it advisable to get tubes? Will I have to make any other mods to anything esle if I just go down the tyre route? Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddyplugger Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 And another thing.....If I get 235/85s, what extra height under the diff will I get, will it be at least what I lost when I fitted QT guards? What is the biggest size I can go to without cutting the bodywork? What range of tyre sizes will the speedo adaptor work with? At the moment I'm tubeless, is it advisable to get tubes? Will I have to make any other mods to anything esle if I just go down the tyre route? Ryan Heres a photo of the difference between 205/70x16 and 235/85x16 ther is a link in the tech archive here on how to trim wheel arches. (if needed) and changing the speedo drive gear is easy job, if you want to do it. Mine was on a defender but, the taller tyres didnt make much change in the speedo, infact made it accurate. I fitted the blue gear drive as I'd bought it already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted November 14, 2006 Author Share Posted November 14, 2006 Thanks Muddy, The pictures put it micely in context, thanks for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damoace Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 here is a normal disco rear arch & a camel rear arch showing the difference. it was only done on the rear arch so camel discos could fit 30.5" or 31" (depends on year i think) tyres. i cant remember how far back you go from the bottom of the arch though. Thanks chap, I'm planning on 32" tyres or thereabouts with spacers to widen it all off a bit. So all info on arch cutting is greatfully recieved.. like the comp shot of the the two tyre sizes, really shows the difference. I pretty much stuck to 750/16's on the Rangie and 206/16 swampers (or diamonds) on the Safari racer. But I want to try something different this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 how much you need to cut for 32s is a good question. i know of a couple of discos with just a camel cut. however to get 235/85 machos under mine i had to cut the arch back by about 1 1/2" taking the entire flat section of the arch off. i suspect you'll need the same if your adding spacers too. id done my camel cut before i fitted the 32s, lucky really i couldnt have even driven on road without doing that. heres my arches before & after more trimming with the 235/85s fitted. pics aint great but should give you an idea what i mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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