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1999 TD5 Spare key not working


hairyone
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Hi all,

It has been a while (5 years) but I am now back in the LR family way.

Gone is the 1987 90, replaced with an almost as rusty 1999 TD5 Disco 2.

As purchased it came with two keys:

  • The first one operates in the door and ignition and also operates the central locking and disables the immobiliser.
  • The second flashes the red light but does not operate the central locking, If I open the door with it the alarm goes off.

I have read about the EKA but I do not have it (previous owner is having a rummage).

I am wondering what the best way forward is ...

I have opened up the keyfob and there is a sticker on the chip and I believe that someone with a nanocom could use this information and verify whether the key was recognised by the vehicle. If it is not then the nancom can be used to "pair it".

Alternatively I could go to an LR dealer and ask for the same exercise to be performed.

With respect to the EKA code, this can be obtained from LR if I tell them the VIN.

The only wrinkle is that the BCU was replaced sometime in the past, presumably whoever did this would have transferred the programming and the EKA would still be the same as that known by LR.

Cheers

Aaron

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You are correct about the Nanocom, but if you go to a LR main dealer they will only be able to code new keys.Testbook T4 uses a pair of bar codes to programme keyfobs,it was never set up to use the info from the sticker inside.The EKA code can be read from the body control unit with either T4 or a Nanocom.

From your location I would suggest a Nanocom might be a wise investment. I have T4 and recently bought a Nanocom for its abilty to code secondhand fobs,but its also proving useful as it will work on TD5 engines in Defenders without buying extra unlock codes.

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Thanks Ally V8,

Oops ... I'm not as remote as you might think ... I moved back from the Wild West of Colorado to Wild West Sussex ... forgot to update Profile Location.

Nanocom seems the way to go, just joined the http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/ where they have a useful map of people with nanocom and hawkeye devices willing to help follow owners.

Think a nanocom of my own might be in the future though.

Cheers

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  • 2 months later...

Hello to all - I have a very similar problem, so it seemed appropriate to post it in here, rather than create a new thread:

We have a Disco 2 (2004), which we've had for a long old time now. We've always had two original keys, that have always both worked without fault.

Yesterday, for some reason, one of the keys decided to stop working. Battery was still good, red light still came on when a button was pressed, but a new battery was tried regardless in case this cured it. It didn't. My wife and I each have one of the keys. Hers stopped working, and when I got back, mine was still working perfectly. Therefore, I believe we can rule out the battery in the key, the receiver in the roofline and so on.

As an aside, my wife's key plastics were replaced a few weeks ago (not that I believe this to be relevant, but mention it all the same). The main LR logo button cracked and failed from use - therefore, replacement plastics were obtained and I swapped over the blade and the ECB inside. Upon having swapped over the plastics, this key continued to work perfectly until Saturday.

Therefore, I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do to resolve it, or even why it would just stop working like this? Please don't tell me that this is a MD only fix! Is there something I can do at home to re-learn the 2nd key back into the alarm/immobiliser system to have them both working again?

Many thanks in advance for any replies

Oh, by the way, I've tried the "press the padlock button down at least four times to re-sync the key to the car" which I found in the technical manual. It didn't work for me. I've tried four times on the trott, six times, nine times each interspersed with opening and locking the car with the working key. I can't get a reaction from the non-working key at all at the moment.

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Hi,

So from what you say it's only your wife's key that doesn't work? If that is the case then I agree it would seem to rule out the receiver. Do you have access to Nanocom or similar to check key entries. Another thing people report is using a key when parked in certain locations near radio mast etc as this can interfere with the signal.

Griff

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  • 6 months later...

Okey dokey - I've made some progress, but only in terms of ruling some issues out:

1 - I kindly enlisted the help of a D2 boys club member who has a Nanocom. I went to him, and we tried to re-sync the key, with the nanocom following the instructions that we posted on the D2 site. Sadly, this didn't work, and the Nanocom rejected the key. I figured that this might have meant that the key was screwed and would need either repair or replacement.

2 - Having spent some time looking for key repairer's - I found this guy on Fleabay who promised to be able to fix any LR key - solving soldering joints / issues etc or your money back. I decided that I still wasn't 100% on him, so decided to pop in and call on his workshop the next time I was in London. Before starting any work, he brought a transmission tester, and clearly showed me that the key was "working" - i.e. the red light comes on, and his tester demonstrated that a signal was being broadcast. He said, that I simply needed to have my key synced with the car again. He couldn't do this, so I left with it having cost me nothing.

Therefore, I'm still in the position of having only one of our two keys working. The "faulty" key is apparently still working, and broadcasting a signal when the fob is pressed. The receiver in the car clearly still works, as the other of our two keys still works and disarms the car just fine.

What to do next????

Would rather avoid a main stealer - as I'm sure that they'll just tell me to buy a new key for £120 and have it coded to the car. Does the main stealer have the capability of getting my old key, that apparently still works coded / sync'd back to the car to get it working again?

Many thanks...

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I think the key may be just out of synch with the BCU,but still recognised by it.Had one recently like this,which Testbook offered me the option to resynch it after the key showed that the RF test was OK,and the key was good,but out of synch.

I don't know if Nanocom can do this,never tried - but T4 does it and it works. I guess you could use a Nanocom to delete the key code from the BCU and then re-write it.

Either way I don't see why that key should not be made to work with your car again.

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