Jump to content

Discovery 1 Brakes


pkjorlie
 Share

Recommended Posts

Have a '96 Discovery 1 with bad brake calipers all the way around. Bought it for the wife as a daily driver. Has anyone tried aftermarket calipers, pads and rotors? Like they sell at Summit? Rebuilt OEM Land Rover Calipers are really pricey. Brakes still work but some of the pistons stick from time to time, then when they let loose, the pedal gives a little. Just not a cuddly feeling when the pedal drops and you can feel the pistons scraping into position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Series 1 Discos don't have brakes, they come standard with motion retardation units :hysterical:

I replaced all of my callipers - which were :-

a.) worn and

b.) the pistons were constantly sticking.

c.) The regulating valve to the rears was kaput.

I installed new LR (quite good enough) callipers but fitted them with stainless steel pistons and the beast now stops on a dime at 100kph (60mph). A new pressure regulating valve was fitted (after market) with an external adjustment knurled screw - still in its original location however this type of PRV can be installed in the cabin and adjusted "on the fly" to give more, or less, rear brake bias.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

OK guys, thanks for the input. I now have all the calipers, rotors and pads replaced and I'm thinking @Boydie is right about the "motion retardation units :)". Still takes a bit to get it stopped. Nothing even close to brakes I have on my 2010 Liberty (Jeep) with 70K.

I do still have an antilock indication on the dash. So next I'm gonna have to look into that big box on the fender. Then after that figure out why the cruise control don't work.

Thanks again, input is always appreciated.

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine had antilock braking when I purchased it some 5 years ago, it, along with the air bags were the very first things I "deep sixed" - antilock breaking is fine on bitumen but on a loose outback track when you want to avoid a obnoxious emu or kangaroo they are next to useless. The airbags went because Julie wanted a grab handle and a small area to put her lip-balm in ^_^ .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I refurbished the existing calipers by cleaning them and fitting stainless steel pistons and OEM seals, together with silicon fluid. I can lock the front wheels if I have to, which I found out the other day avoiding a stray dog.

Wonder if there's a way I can disable the front ABS, and leave the rear intact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pk, I removed the ABS modulating pump block and stored it in the garbage bin ^_^ , I then installed an after-market adjustable rear brake pressure regulating valve (PRV) on the inside wheel arch on the passenger side of the engine bay, the supply line to the rears was removed, shortened and re-flared to suit the new PRV, new supply pipes to the front brakes from the master cylinder and the PRV were made up, it's easy enough to do with a length of steel brake line, a1/4" diameter hand held tube bender and double flaring tool kit. At this time I replaced the three old rubber flexible brake lines with stainless steel braided units - not essential if your'e driving on bitumen but wise if, as I do, you do a lot of off road driving.

Getting the right rear brake pressure was a bit of trial and error to avoid rear brake lock-up but at the same time have good response, - drive, brake hard, adjust, drive, brake brake hard, adjust etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have a look in my photo gallery, there may be some shots there. There are two "tappings" on your master cylinder, the front one nearest to the bulkhead goes to the front wheel port of the PCV ( nearest to the sealed adjustment cap) , the second goes to the rear wheel port of the PCV. (these on the standard PCV are on the underside) there are three ports on the top of the PVC. The two that are nearest to the adjustment cap go to the front wheels (one wheels per port) while the remaining port furthest from the adjustment cap goes to the rear wheels.

If you have a friendly local LR wrecker you should be able to recover most of these hydraulic lines from a non-abs Disco or Defender.

I got my adjustable one from RallyQuip, a local Sydney dealer in all components for rally cars, it can be located inside the cabin so that the driver can adjust the rear wheel braking bias while driving, quite often in a rally car you want the rears to lock to first to give better turn-in. Considering your UK insurance requirements I'd advise you just retain the standard non-ABS PCV it works well and it will be legal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy