pkjorlie Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Have a '96 Discovery 1 with bad brake calipers all the way around. Bought it for the wife as a daily driver. Has anyone tried aftermarket calipers, pads and rotors? Like they sell at Summit? Rebuilt OEM Land Rover Calipers are really pricey. Brakes still work but some of the pistons stick from time to time, then when they let loose, the pedal gives a little. Just not a cuddly feeling when the pedal drops and you can feel the pistons scraping into position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I replaced my rear calipers with some from Allmakes I think it was? Seemed like good quality, worked fine of course! Great price too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulmitchell1984 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 iv just uprated my frotn discs and calipers to defender 110, vented drilled and grooved, rears iv left standard calipers but changed for drilled and grooved.. you probably can get other after market brakes but expect to pay for the privelage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Series 1 Discos don't have brakes, they come standard with motion retardation units I replaced all of my callipers - which were :- a.) worn and b.) the pistons were constantly sticking. c.) The regulating valve to the rears was kaput. I installed new LR (quite good enough) callipers but fitted them with stainless steel pistons and the beast now stops on a dime at 100kph (60mph). A new pressure regulating valve was fitted (after market) with an external adjustment knurled screw - still in its original location however this type of PRV can be installed in the cabin and adjusted "on the fly" to give more, or less, rear brake bias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkjorlie Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 OK guys, thanks for the input. I now have all the calipers, rotors and pads replaced and I'm thinking @Boydie is right about the "motion retardation units :)". Still takes a bit to get it stopped. Nothing even close to brakes I have on my 2010 Liberty (Jeep) with 70K. I do still have an antilock indication on the dash. So next I'm gonna have to look into that big box on the fender. Then after that figure out why the cruise control don't work. Thanks again, input is always appreciated. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 My '93 MY 200Tdi has standard callipers - refurbished - and discs. I use Mintex pads. It stops like a stoppy thing in the land of Stop. Well actually, it locks up like a b&st&rd if you are not careful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 I had a set of rebuilt calipers along with Bosch discs and pads all round, locks up all four wheels on tarmac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkjorlie Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 Apparently there is something wrong in the big box on the fenderwell that controls the antilock. It brakes, but it really doesn't stop very well. I'd be very hesitant to tow a trailer for instance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Mine had antilock braking when I purchased it some 5 years ago, it, along with the air bags were the very first things I "deep sixed" - antilock breaking is fine on bitumen but on a loose outback track when you want to avoid a obnoxious emu or kangaroo they are next to useless. The airbags went because Julie wanted a grab handle and a small area to put her lip-balm in . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkjorlie Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 Boydie, We drive it almost exclusively on blacktop but after seeing another post on disabling ABS I'm ready to pull the fuse and try it that way. Did you re-pipe around the modulating pump/valve block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheffield Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 I refurbished the existing calipers by cleaning them and fitting stainless steel pistons and OEM seals, together with silicon fluid. I can lock the front wheels if I have to, which I found out the other day avoiding a stray dog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkjorlie Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 I refurbished the existing calipers by cleaning them and fitting stainless steel pistons and OEM seals, together with silicon fluid. I can lock the front wheels if I have to, which I found out the other day avoiding a stray dog. Wonder if there's a way I can disable the front ABS, and leave the rear intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 no, abs works by comparing wheel speeds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Pk, I removed the ABS modulating pump block and stored it in the garbage bin , I then installed an after-market adjustable rear brake pressure regulating valve (PRV) on the inside wheel arch on the passenger side of the engine bay, the supply line to the rears was removed, shortened and re-flared to suit the new PRV, new supply pipes to the front brakes from the master cylinder and the PRV were made up, it's easy enough to do with a length of steel brake line, a1/4" diameter hand held tube bender and double flaring tool kit. At this time I replaced the three old rubber flexible brake lines with stainless steel braided units - not essential if your'e driving on bitumen but wise if, as I do, you do a lot of off road driving. Getting the right rear brake pressure was a bit of trial and error to avoid rear brake lock-up but at the same time have good response, - drive, brake hard, adjust, drive, brake brake hard, adjust etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkjorlie Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 Boydie, You got a picture? I would appreciate if you do. Also, where did you get the adjustable PRV? or was it just a standard industrial hydraulic PRV like Parker? As an engineer myself, I have access to many hydraulic suppliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Have a look in my photo gallery, there may be some shots there. There are two "tappings" on your master cylinder, the front one nearest to the bulkhead goes to the front wheel port of the PCV ( nearest to the sealed adjustment cap) , the second goes to the rear wheel port of the PCV. (these on the standard PCV are on the underside) there are three ports on the top of the PVC. The two that are nearest to the adjustment cap go to the front wheels (one wheels per port) while the remaining port furthest from the adjustment cap goes to the rear wheels. If you have a friendly local LR wrecker you should be able to recover most of these hydraulic lines from a non-abs Disco or Defender. I got my adjustable one from RallyQuip, a local Sydney dealer in all components for rally cars, it can be located inside the cabin so that the driver can adjust the rear wheel braking bias while driving, quite often in a rally car you want the rears to lock to first to give better turn-in. Considering your UK insurance requirements I'd advise you just retain the standard non-ABS PCV it works well and it will be legal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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