FridgeFreezer Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 As the title says - my fuel filler cap leaks fairly badly when I go round a left-hander I've replaced the rubber seal on the cap itself but it's made no difference (surely Britpart can't mess up a simple seal?), another suggestion is "blocked breather" but I can't see how this would cause, or stop, a substantial loss of fuel through the cap? Mine is the early type - black flip-up cap with a lock on it, not the type behind a little door. (Here's one that's on eBay) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Mine was like this too - brought me back to my old Mk2 Escort in the fields at home, it had an old Esso tin with a copper pipe brased in for a fuel tank between the front seats. When it wouldn't run we had another way of getting our kicks.... Anyhoo the reason its doing it is because there's a baffle inside the filler neck that you must be missing like I was... don't ask me where to get them the 3.9 conversion has meant it's not a problem for me any more. So in the meantime you know how to pass the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 It never used to leak - surely a baffle won't have just fallen off or gone missing inside the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 John Mate had this Its not closing on the seal enough due to wear give the item a "Tweakette" with LR special tool No 1 to make the clip on the cap lock harder onto the assemble If you wnat to be technical here A "John White number 3a" should be big enough Nige PS I am going to be in sooooo much trouble when Mr "I have a snap on chest with a draw dedicated to hammers" read this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 It never used to leak - surely a baffle won't have just fallen off or gone missing inside the tank? Open the filler cap - is there a second tube within the filler neck - you'll be able to simply pull it out. If there isn't and you just looking down the filler neck then it's missing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Half Orange Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Open the filler cap - is there a second tube within the filler neck - you'll be able to simply pull it out. If there isn't and you just looking down the filler neck then it's missing... Blimey! Mine is missing then! The cap does not leak though........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Half Orange Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 I had a dig around in my manual, and the parts list seems to indicate tyhat UK and Europe models did not all have the extension tube. It would be nice to have though, as it would save havuing to carry a spout or funnel for my Jerry cans. Here is the parts listing, if you need to order any bits: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Well I knew nothing about it until a fella cold called on me one day. He has a late '70's two door with a 3.5 Mazda diesel conversion using the original RR tank. We were chatting about something and he opened the original filler cap to reveal this 'extension' (bloody good idea btw) which I took to be a baffle. It certainly acts as a baffle as there's a thick rib just short of its leading edge inside it that constricts the neck so when the fuel surges up it's stopped by the rib. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 22, 2006 Author Share Posted November 22, 2006 Nige - what are you suggesting tweaking - the little tab that the clip locks onto? I suppose fabricating a drop-in baffle in a short length of pipe isn't too hard but I'd prefer to get this sorted properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Just for my 10c... I don't believe it's a problem with your cap - I believed it was a probem on my original cap so I bought a brand new one. Same deal... I'd be happy to be proved wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 John, Have you tried putting a second rubber washer on? can't see from the pictures that there is much else to go wrong, but the rubber not sealing, so an extra thickness of material might be enough to give it a decent seal. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Just gibe part 6/7 a tap downward with special tool 3A. This then makes the cap clamp tighter job done, the extra funnel bit make no diference, the second seal is a similar fix. basicaly the assemble has worn, so is not sealing tight enough Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 Well I sorted it, and none of this hammer nonsense if you remove the rubber seal on the cap, there is a phillips screw holding the plate on. Behind this is a large spring that pushes down to make the seal. Obviously 20 years have passed and it's done a ScrapIron and sagged so a bit of tweaking about and it's been restored to its original springyness, or some approximation thereof. If it doesn't work 100% then a bit more tweak or perhaps a supplemental spring may be in order. Curiously, hanging round the lab, the springs look very similar to the Volvo 303 diff lock actuator return springs. Hmmm, wonder if Jez would miss one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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