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Rear Wheel Arch


geoffbeaumont
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Attacked the rear wheel arch of my mates Range Rover with a mallet this afternoon (technically my Range Rover at the moment...). Turns out the rust was a bit worse than we thought, there isn't much left around the seat belt mount now and even the reinforcing plate for the mount has a hole in it. I wouldn't be too happy with getting that mess welded up, so it looks like time for a new arch. Cheapest I can find is Craddocks at £52.30 + VAT. Anyone seen them cheaper?

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Paddock want £47 + vat.

I patched my Disco one and it only took a couple of hours and that included cutting and bending a new reinforcing plate. Mind you, if the whole arch is naffed there's no point

Cheers.

Given that I don't weld, it makes more sense to spend the money on a new panel than on labour. I think it's probably too far gone anyway, though.

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Cheers.

Given that I don't weld, it makes more sense to spend the money on a new panel than on labour. I think it's probably too far gone anyway, though.

Does it look some thing like this:-

seatbelt1.png

and after a few hours and a couple of quids worth off plate:-

seatbelt3.png

Tho i could re-use the 4mm reinforcing bottom plate with the nut on it after some cleaning up..

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Fitting a new panel is not a small job, this I know'cos I've done it!

To do it properly, fueal tank needs to be out, boot floor needs to be out, back seat and all the trim and carpets.

Then you'll find the seat box has tin worm, the floor has tin worm, the C pillar, the rear inner wing, and hell knows what else!

Once you start this it's never ending.

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I did a Rangy rear arch some time ago. I think repair is easier/better than replacing the whole panel. You could do all the prep work yourself Geoff, then just pay someone to weld - might be the cheapest option. A few pics anyway.

The damage:-

med_gallery_2_46_631979.jpg

Cut the rust and the reinforcing plate out with an angle grinder.

med_gallery_2_46_262926.jpg

The reinforcing plate can be tacked on from inside the wheel arch and then a 10mm hole drilled through the two. An M10 fine bolt and nyloc then secure the seat belt anchor point as before.

Les. :)

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The vehicle shown had both sides like that. The repair plates were 9" x 6". The corrosion starts between the reinforcing plate and arch metal, so tends to be localised - even when the rot is quite severe. Apart from removing the underseal from inside the wheel arch and removing interior carpet etc, there's not a great deal to do before welding, so not a major job really. I would expect just one arch in similar condition to take two or three hours to make good again.

But then there could also be:-

med_gallery_2_46_218376.jpg

as well as :-

med_gallery_2_46_818557.jpg

Les :(

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:lol:

I remember finding those pictures just after I bought the disco... and thinking you had got off lightly! :ph34r: I did a lot of that on mine, but didn't take pictures :(

My rear arches however, are not really a problem, but this is probably cos mine is a 3 door, not a 5 door.

Mark

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  • 2 weeks later...
The sills will need some attention before too long, but I think will get through the MOT this time. There are a few other patches in non-structural areas around the wheel arches in the usual places, but this truck is actually pretty sound so far as I can see.

You cursed it didn't you, Les :angry:

Decided it would be a good idea to strip the carpets out and be certain of the trucks condition before we started spending money on it. Seem okay from underneath but the sills are rusted through from inside the floors shot in the rear footwells (above the sill tanks, which is why I didn't find it from below. I don't reckon it's economical to repair, really.

Anyone want a project vehicle? :(

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