Just bought my first Land Rover (Series 3) 1977 - question about spares!

[Bradshaw]

Hi Guys,

Total newbie to Land Rovers so apologies in advance for any wincing I am about to inflict on you all....I live in Malta & have just purchased a 1977 Series 3 as a workhorse, wife & 3 dog transporter.

Did a lot of research into Land Rovers - what bad points to look out for while purchasing, after seeing a couple of absolutely neglected, oily monsters, I found what I think was a good buy for the money - a 39yr old vehicle will have its issues - oil being one of them, so this one only having 3 small ones was an eye opener....its a 2.25 Diesel.

2 of these are in and around the LT76 gearbox (266811 A.D.C.3) - the main one(s) being from the transmission brake - (always known as a handbrake to me - i'm learning)

I am trying to find the correct part numbers for ALL of the seals from Paddock spares - I have also read there is a felt seal too?

The leaks are from where the backplate join the transfer case (is that correct?) & from the front bottom of the drum (assume that is the seal behind the castle nut?)

I have only had Tank (his name - my wife's idea after she drove it for the first & last time) for 3 days so not had chance to start tinkering & stripping - but needless to say I feel I am doing ok so far regarding diagnosis?

Thanks guys in advance for any help

Regards Si

 

[Daan]

Welcome to the fold. While sorting out the handbrake, check for play in the bearings, as this tend to be an issue on series landys. You can remove shims from the speedo drive to adjust.

 

Daan

[Snagger]

Both of the leaks you describe are from the same source - the output seal is failed.  It does happen that the area of the output flange that the seal runs against is scored or pitted, in which case a new seal will not work well and will soon be worn out too, but let's hope not.  You'll find out when you dismantle it.  You can either eeplace the part or have the old one sleeved by an engineer's workshop.

You can buy seal and gasket kits that contain everything for a full overhaul of the oil leaks.  The Britpart gaskets are fine, but their seals are a contradiction in terms - they don't even seal when new.  But Corteco or Angus seals, or Bearmach, who do decent pattern parts.  There is a felt seal on the transfer box output shaft, which is cheap enough as a genuine part. You will also need the split pins for the output shaft nuts and for the hand brake linkage.

Park the vehicle on level ground, engage low range first gear (to lock the front wheels, as you will be removing the hand brake) and chock the wheels.  Drain the oil from the transfer box.

Remove the rear prop shaft and the transmission brake drum.  Remove the split pin and cotter pin from the hand brake linkage where it connects to the L-shaped relay, and don't lose the anti-rattle spring from the cotter pin.  9mm spanner works well for me, I don't know what the correct Imperial spanner is.  Give the shaft a hard tug around in every direction to check for play.

Remove the big split pin from the nut holding the output flange on the transfer box output shaft, then the nut, its washer and pull the flange off.  You will notice a felt washer that seals the splines behind the big washer - that is the one you will replace later, though I have re-used mine many times with no problem, but if the nut and washer and front end of the prop shaft were oily, it needs a new one.

You will now see four studs and nuts holding the oil catcher ring (a roughly square pressing that sits around the output flange nose).  Remove the nuts and locking washers and pull the brake assembly and oil catcher as one from the transfer box.

Now you can see the oil seal and replace it.  You will notice a vertical slot underneath it - this is the drain for the oil catcher ring that tries to keep any oil leak away from the brake.  Clean out any muck from it, and separate the oil catcher ring from the brake back plate and give everything a good clean.  The shoes can probably be cleaned well enough by scrubbing in hot very soapy water or running through the dishwasher with a couple of tablets for strength.

Refit in reverse.

If you also have leaks from the shims between the speedo housing (the casing between brake and transfer box) then you need to disconnect the speedo cable, undo all the nuts and slide the housing off.  Then remove all the shims and carefully clean them.  Any burrs or rust should be removed with fine wet and dry paper, then lightly smear each shim completely in light grease before refitting one by one.  If there was significant play, you can leave one shim out and re-assemble the speedo housing and just the flange and nut to check again for play, select neutral on the red lever (after making sure the car cant roll) and turn the shaft over by hand to check the bearings aren't to tight.  It's better to have a small amount of play than overtight bearings, but you can buy thinner shims and you may also want to check the bearings if there is much play - the rear bearing outer race can easily be pulled out to have a look.

Given your location, I suspect you know Patrick (Gremlin) - say hello to him.  He'll also be able to give plenty of good advice- he knows his way around Series vehicles and Defenders well.

[Flailbasher]

Hello there, 

 

If you would like a pretty much full list of part numbers for every part of the series 3 check out this book:

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-parts-book/

it's completely free from the web page. I've used this book for my restoration of a 74 series 3. 

 

Hope this helps! 

[Bradshaw]

Hey Guys,

Thanks a lot for all your advice!

Gonna be ordering parts tomorrow and the above advice is a great help avoiding the pitfalls for the newbie.

As for Snaggers comment on Patrick - unfortunately I do not know him, but sounds as though I should...so any contact info for him would be fantastic!

Thanks

Si

[Snagger]

There is a thriving Land Rover scene in Malta, and he's in the thick of it.  He has a white 109 rag top with 200Tdi and Defender transmission - I'm sure you'll come across him.

[Tal]

3 hours ago, Flailbasher said:

Hello there, 

 

If you would like a pretty much full list of part numbers for every part of the series 3 check out this book:

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-parts-book/

it's completely free from the web page. I've used this book for my restoration of a 74 series 3. 

 

Hope this helps! 

I wonder if western has this one already? useful stuff