DC_ Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Happy Friday guys and girls I've decided I really need to get my heater fixed as it now is sounding like a chopper hovering outside the front window It's only been working on the usual 3rd setting for about a year which I could live with as I'm in Scotland which isn't the warmest So can anyone guide me to a full write up/manual which shows pics etc to do the job? I know it may involve getting the dash off to do it, but I think it'll be well worth it. Ta muchly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverbo Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Hi DC_, sounds like you have two problems: a)Fan motor worn out (hence the chopper sound), and b)resistor assembly open (your fan operates only on the direct connection setting). I would download the official RAVE manual, as you will need to get the dash out (quite a job - no-one can describe this operation in a few words. ). Search for RAVE, this is IMHO the best manual. Regards Bo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 There's a very good write up here: http://www.roverparts.com/Instructions/RRC_A-C_Heater_Blower_Resistor_PRC8010_1.cfm I assume you are replacing it with one that isn't going to fail once it sees a bit of water? http://britpart.com/AccessoryCategory.asp?PageRef=4&AccessoryCategoryRef=166 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Mines doing the same, but not the noise from the fan, so a new resistor is a must i think, seeing as im replacing the dash soon anyway its a worth while job to do while its out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 You cannot buy the resistors anymore, only aftermarket ones are available. The aftermarket ones are just made from resistors that you can buy in you local electronics store, so you can make them yourself. You need a 2.0 ohm, 1.5 ohm, and 0.5 ohm resistors. No real need to pull your dash apart as you only need to unplug the old resistor wiring under your dash and plug in your made one. To find diagrams of how to make, do a google search on PRC8010G or PRC8010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Honestly, the Britpart one I linked to is made in the states and good quality, I looked at making a set up using stuff from RS, but to get the wattage required it was just as much as buying the unit above, if not more! If you are lucky you can get to the plug to remove the old one, I wasn't lucky, so had to remove part of the vent system to stick my arm into the dash and poke it through, once I had done that everything else was done through the LH vent behind the bonnet, very simple job really. They're not expensive: http://www.lrdirect.com/da4178resistor-heater-motor-resistor-britpart.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaryV8 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Didnt realise they would be that expensive!! might keep it as it is for a whie then.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Jasus !! £190 for the blower? I've had the front grills off and seen the resistor located on the LH/Side (sitting in the RRC). Four wires connected if I remember. So I'll try get in and get to the plug for refitting the resistor. I take it, it's gona be the blower job that the dash needs to come out for? Hmmmm her indoors isn't gona be happy about £190 I'll see if I can locate a second hand unit........... Then the only worry would be how long that would last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Yep, replacing the heater is probably my least favourite job on Rangie after opening the swivels! There's a detailed write up here: http://www.roverparts.com/Instructions/HBM_8844_1.cfm TBH, budget for a new matrix as well, otherwise you'll have to do it all over again when that fails... it's not a nice job, I managed it in 8 or hours working like a crazed fruit fly (needed the car the next day), but your hands will show it with scratches and blood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 :D Oh the joys........... Time to start selling stuff Anyone need a brand new Claude butler mountain bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverbo Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 :D Oh the joys........... Time to start selling stuff Anyone need a brand new Claude butler mountain bike? OK, there is a bungle-bungle way of fixing it, your fan motor is noisy, but there is a fair chance that it will behave OK at the lower speed settings. So, I had the same problem with the resistors (only the "full speed" was working), and to be honest, i couldn´t find the energy to mess with the dash, re-glue the louvres etc here in the winter. So i peeled the four-way switch out (a 90 degrees angle philips screwdriver is a great help) from the dashboard, measured the resistors from here, and found that only one of them were open (probably burnt out). So I reconnected the good one, so now I´ve got off - low speed - off - full blow on the switch. My RRC is a 1990-model, so the schematics shown from Roverparts doesn´t look like mine. I have only two resistors. My schematic is this (the two resistor marked 2 and 2): Don´t know if this is any help, I can live with this until it gets a litle warmer... Keep your Claude Butler - find some used parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Haha. The Claude is awaiting the summer Thanks fo that, I'll prob end up doing the full job................shush don't tell her indoors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Well an update ............. Managed to get the resistor pack changed over Had to get the top of the dash off to disconnect the red plug as it wouldn't pull through due to being attached to the wiring harness The heater now works on settings two and three The air con works on all three settings so I'm guessing the first setting for the heater just isn't strong enough to push the blower? I'm now swithering as to leave the dash off and source a blower or try it now running on the lower settings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 For all those who are contemplating doing this job, ive been sitting here for 3 hours reading through the manual online !!! It says take the plate off that holds the resistor pack so you can gain access to the electrical plug. Instead of ripping off yer skin and half the dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 It's not there though, you need to dismantle the dash! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 What's not there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 When ye take the plate off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 The connector, with that plate removed, I still had to remove the dash.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 That kinda makes me feel a bit better as I even had her indoors out standing on the bumper getting her small hands into the grill to fit the resistor pack and plug the connector together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 The problem is, the wire is clipped in place under the dash, so rather hard to pull it through, especially as the plug is pretty big as well, I tried, dailed and then pulled the dash apart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 Another wee update......... Located a whole 2nd hand heater unit with blower and matrix in it although it's not an exact match as mines has air con too. So decided to try and dismantle that so I knew what to expect if I was swapping over the blower from my unit. Well.............. What a bloo** job! To try an prise the unit apart to get to the blower, so decided to go in from the side as the unit has screws on the side plates. I have no idea how to get the blower from inside that moulded casing apart from using Land Rovers favorite tool the hammer which I decided against. Was wondering if the next bit of the story is significant or not. Whilst inspecting the blower inside the casing I was trying to figure out what may be failing. Remembering that after fitting the new resistor pack the blower only turned on setting 2 & 3. So decided to get the front grill off and spray some lube on the part of the blower motor that visible. After 20 mins or so I tried the switch again and it now turns on all 3 settings !! So after summing up what's involved I decided to live (for the time being) with the noise from the blower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 You cannot buy the resistors anymore, only aftermarket ones are available. The aftermarket ones are just made from resistors that you can buy in you local electronics store, so you can make them yourself. You need a 2.0 ohm, 1.5 ohm, and 0.5 ohm resistors. No real need to pull your dash apart as you only need to unplug the old resistor wiring under your dash and plug in your made one. To find diagrams of how to make, do a google search on PRC8010G or PRC8010 I have this same max speed only problem on my 1990 RRC. Buying resistors from RS is not a problem for me, but what wattage do they need to be? At less than a couple of quid each it has to be worth a DIY job. I've zoomed on the image of the Atlantic British unit and can't read the details on the casings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 I checked the part numbers/wattage in RS when I fitted mine, for the cost it wasn't worth it, they are pretty hefty,2-2.5" long maybe...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willfromsussex Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 im putting a heater unit out of an 89 rangie into my car and the resistors are inside the heater casing itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 The unit I got as a spare had a smaller resistor unit inside the casing also. It was on a bracket riveted to the inside of the blower casing plate. Mines is a 92 RRC so I'm not sure the second smaller resistor is also inside my casing. So is anyone able to advise on whether blower replacement can be done with it incased in the unit itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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