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WesBrooks last won the day on January 4

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About WesBrooks

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  1. Thanks for the comments guys all very fair, particularly around availability. I had a cursory look for the toyota v8 too but that is in limited supply. I want a petrol, and would love to stick with a V8 almost purely for nostalgia, the rumble, and it's kinda been passed down in my bones along with brewing my own beer! Any how I digress. If I could get a more recent engine in and mega squirted then I'd consider that but realistically the cut off is around £5k for something that is do-able. The conversations going on here imply more like £10-15k for the LS then all parts shipped over which would be a ball ache.
  2. What sort of money are the adaptors to fit an LS onto a ZF box? I'm 80% set on a cross bolted RV8 route but should at least have an idea how much this route would take. I'm guessing £3k for a crate engine ish? Pain to get in and running but once in I'm guessing it'll be a much easier life than running a RV8?
  3. Don't tin, use crimp on ferruls as in the following link. Tinning screw terminals is not great for long term reliability. I used to tin for neatness too. http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/29861/tinning-wires-that-will-be-screwed-in-to-a-chocolate-block-terminal-strip
  4. ....then after sorting out camera you've somehow got to discourage the person I'm not that keen on spiders! :-D Edit: He he! 'the person I'm not keen on'! Just testing the forum's Language auto correct.
  5. Yeah, that's what I feared and put it back in to a 'jobs for later' pile! :-D Failing ONVIF my next approach was going to be raspberry pi (or similar) + web cam. At least I would know what it was doing then.
  6. I've been looking into something similar recently and ended up returning some cameras as I didn't trust them. I wasn't happy about the active-x software that was needed to configure the camera. Technically there is little reason why you should need to do this but the one I returned and another I'm using at home couldn't be set up fully with the Onvif viewers. I'd say avoid DBPower cameras from Ebay. I'm still looking for a HD night vision pan - tilt - zoom that can be set up without it needing to be connected to the internet, ONVIF compliant, and linux friendly.
  7. The only source of information that I've found is the enquiries@dvsa.gsi.gov.uk email address. With these I've found that unless you ask a question that could be answered by reading the text in the IVA test guides then you'll get a response a month or two later (even if replying to a previous email) that starts with something along the line of 'Sorry for the delay, due to the technical nature of your enquiry it was passed to me...'. I did ask to visit a test station to get a feel for the test but was declined that or a meeting. If you have got direct communication with a tester you are fortunate, and they are going above and beyond. Talking of which there is a help to pass document going around which is a better first read than the test guide to get a feel for things. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-to-get-a-pass The locost forums are a massive help for getting your head around the IVAs and getting an idea of common stumbling points. In essence you need almost OCD levels of attention to detail to get through on first pass, or be super routine and run it through a mock test where you or a mate (a favour in such a magnitude that could only be repaid in copious amounts of real ale!) test it against the guide. I'm on the same side regarding the IVA. I've only been balancing on the fence because my project wouldn't have needed one originally (re-body of a discovery) but since the work now includes engine and I'm thinking of moving engine back a bit, going under seat fuel tanks and cutting overhang then all of a sudden it is well and truly IVA territory. In the past I've worked in the design and development of machines that were potentially harmful (laser processing very low oxide aluminium and titanium powders can get 'interesting') and it was always reassuring to have a framework to work to which could get signed off to say you've paid due diligence. The grey areas were always appreciated by finance and project leaders as a route through was generally cheaper, but on who's head are those choices on when it goes tits up with your own car? It does have the opposite effect of stopping you going overboard too. This also provides a marker down for what is deemed an acceptable build standard and taking the design significantly past this is unnecessary spend unless it is for the vehicles dual purpose of the 4x4 use. The IVA is after all only intended to test for suitability for the on road section of it's life, not the private land (green lanes are technically on road I believe) off road adventures and play. Edit: Here are the locost forums - https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/
  8. I've read through it a few times and it is great if you are making a fairly standard saloon or locost/seven style car. It does however get particularly confusing when it appears to be more restrictive than both C&U and EC regulations around issues such as lighting. I tend to focus on specific sections that I'm currently working on rather than the whole lot in one shot. At least one read through cover to cover is a good move though just to ensure you have a decent feel for what is passable.
  9. I hadn't twigged the type approved exemption thing extended to external and internal projections. The commercial IVA test is the light goods or N1 class that I referred to. The links are to the websites hosting the most up to date copy of the guides.
  10. According to the following site the date modifications need to be older than to avoid the need for an IVA test is 1998. This is the date the SVA test came in, which has now been replaced by the IVA test. http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/licensing-legal-section/old-modifications-chassis-368130 Acceptable evidence might be quite tough though!
  11. My comment on the age limit being 10 years is wrong, I'm not sure how long ago the modifications have to be before it passes under grandfather like rights but it's more than 10 I think. I'll add a comment on my original post. In a nutshell the point system is the way they decide whether a car is the same car or not following modifications. The more you change, the more it is different to the original that passed type approval and more into a grey area where there is complete reliance on competence of the people doing the modifying. They give a little play room but also draw a limit where they are effectively saying the proportion of people that are modifying their cars who are either clueless or just have a far more generous idea of acceptable risk presents too much of a risk to the general public.
  12. The points system determines whether a modified vehicle retains the exisiting registration plate, needs a new age related registration plate, or needs a q plate. If the registration plate needs to change then you need an IVA. As your engine is a factory reconditioned unit if it is the same spec as the original for the chassis then it counts as the original. Likewise if you change the chassis like for like with no modifications it counts as original. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/radically-altered-vehicles As others have said if the chassis has been modified within the time limit then an IVA is required regardless of the point score. This time limit will relate to when changes occurred to either the points system or sva/iva. It's unlikely to be a rolling exemption meaning if you stay quiet and it's not spotted for 10 years I don't think it effectively gets rubber stamped. Have a look at the IVA test guides for M1 and N1 vehicles to see what you'd be up against. Getting a landy through an N1 would be easier, but restrict you to van speed limits and may effect insurance premiums. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-manual-for-vehicle-category-m1 https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-manual-for-vehicle-category-n1 Major gotchas are likely to be internal and external projections and if you've raised your suspension then the self centering of the steering maybe a little weak if you've not also had castor corrected arms fitted. Beyond that if you do go for a test then everything needs to be super neat. They for example are very prescriptive on acceptable securing of wiring, fuel, and brake lines. Fuel lines would need to be marked. With many aspects where you can show the item under test is the same as a type approved vehicle it may pass. These cases are normally highlighted in the guides. Edit: I've got the 10 year figure wrong. I think for modifications to be exempt from IVA they need to be older than that and there needs to be reasonable evidence of the modifications being that old such as pictures in magazines or show reviews. I'll have a dig around and comment if I do find out the true figure.
  13. My experience of drums all around is a while back now on a '74 VW1303. When cold they tended to snatch and after lost their bite quite quickly when running around 60mph country lanes. Despite working in engineering I never really appreciate things like why people want discs over drums or bigger discs until I get a bit of hands on myself. For me the this has come in two chunks. Firstly going back from hydraulic discs on my mountain bike (set up as a commuter at the time) to rim brakes on a push bike really made me appreciate the confidence discs gave in being able to measure in braking gave which allowed me to make better use of my back brake and hold the front at as close to perfect braking as I could muster. This ultimately shortened my braking distances because as the error is (ie with drums you had less of an idea how much braking you were going to get with a certain squeeze) less you are more likely to squeeze the brakes harder from the instant you perceive a need to loose momentum. While ultimate braking is dictated by the tyre grip if you can get to that ultimate quicker the drum system will never be able to out brake the discs in order to catch up for the little 'lets see how it feels' initial press. Yes the road bike didn't have drum brakes, but the issues were similar to what people have already said regarding consistency. The second awakening came when I followed a brake in procedure for my wife's Toyota Yaris. A small car and equipped with discs up front and drums to the rear. The break in procedure had a number of breaks from 45 right down to about 10 and the difference between the amount you had to press the pedal down and how quickly the car stopped on a given foot pressure was quite scary on repeat runs. I really had to brace myself between the seat and peddle to get close to the ABS judder on repeat runs. After a bit of a short drive they had recovered most of the initial bite and where back to normal. So in a race, fast twisty road, or heavily loaded I could really appreciate why people wanted better breaks, to reduce peak temperatures (same energy being dissipated through a larger volume) be able to shed heat faster and in some cases pad choice to be able to tolerate the higher temps better. From a mechanical standpoint I just prefer the pad force being applied to the disc from either side. The pads can't move far as they are directly compressing a lump of steel applying compressive forces to the material. With a drum you are creating a hoop stress in the drum and expanding the material. Doesn't seem too greater thing to do to a cast item. This is a similar logic to favouring braided hoses in the brake lines to reduce pedal travel and working being done on expanding things rather than braking. All that said though if you keep on top of your maintenance and have good quality shocks, tyres, and the brake system is in good fettle then your in a better place than many of the heaps of tat you see on the road that only get tweaked each year as required to achieve an MOT. The usual advice on driving technique, leaving gaps and not dabbing the brakes all the time will probably be far more effective in improving the chances of you avoiding a nasty than the people who are forever dabbing brakes or trying to rub up against the bumper in front. Edit: I owned the 1303 around 2000, not the original owner! The break in for the Yaris was after changing front discs an pads.
  14. I think the logic behind warming the intake is about ensuring the fuel doesn't condense out of the fuel-air mix. For most power cold and dense is best, but guess that may lead to an increase in unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust as the condensed fuel doesn't burn as well or simply gets pumped out.