neil01 Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 well, cut out the boot floor of the L reg disco 1 that i was given (yes given!!) at the weekend and this is what i am left with. i have had this suggested to me: simply replace the support bars under the floor, cut out all bad metal, prime and rust proof all existing metal then have a sheet welded right over where the old floor was. wouldnt be neat but practical and quick. would the idea with the sheet steal pass the MOT? the vehicle is not going to be used for off road. (yet) cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobyone Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 to be honest, it is sheet metal welded badly together from the factory so the mot station wont really care. they are just concerned with exhaust fumes coming into the cockpit area through holes. get some sheet steel. get some cardboard, cut out the compound corners carefully on the cardboard pieces, then stick a bit in the middle and tape it all together. remove and transfer shape onto steel and cut out. how you fit it is up to you, but bear in mind that there is alot more surface area to trap water under and if not done properly then it wll rust away right up to the edges of the floor. before you 'stick' it down, run a good bead of polyurethane all over the floor you are sticking it too. and seal the edges too. some people rivet it down but i have heard horror stories that some mot stations will fail that. but i had one done this way and it was more secure than when it rolled out from land rover and passed 2 mot's this way. i think it is the likes of quick fit and newer mot test stations using newer regs to test cars with. plus they look for making some money out of you... you can drill holes in the replacement sheet with a view to puddle weld it to the floor, but remember the fuel pump is under there and also there are seatbelt brackets for the rear seats too. an easy way around that is to remove the seats come mot time then they cant fail it for that... ask your mot station if rivets and seam sealer are an acceptable way to secure your new floor, and then rivet it, as this way you can remove it if you have to, but be wary of how much polyurethane you use to seal it. i used just a line all around where the original boot floor sits, but the body floor side not the boot floor obviously. regards richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobyone Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 **********AND DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT WELDING IT IF IT IS A PETROL MODEL AS THE TANK IS RIGHT UNDER THE BOOT FLOOR.********** if it is petrol,remove tank from under first if welding, but i would go with rivets or rivnuts(much more expensive), but be very careful when you drill the holes as you can pierce the tank easily, diesel or petrol model. stick down first then drill the holes very carefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil01 Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 here are a couple more pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 well as for the MOT my boot floor was pop rivited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil01 Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 thinking about it last night again(!!), could i weld the z sections in to hold a floor plate and then rivet in an aluminium chequered plate? would this be MOT pass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 thinking about it last night again(!!), could i weld the z sections in to hold a floor plate and then rivet in an aluminium chequered plate? would this be MOT pass? can't see why not mine was just a bit of galvanised sheet the only RRC had a aluminium floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil01 Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 lrfarmer, thanks for the info, do you have any pics? also, seen this thread on another forum: http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=107999 would this type of idea, but with chequered plate ally, pass in MOT in UK (in the thread it was done in France) thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinny Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 i cant see it being a problem as long as it looks decent from underneath ive never had an mot man lift the rear carpet to look under like you said the motor was a freebie so i would get it sorted also check the cills at the bottom of the door pillars mine had the worm there, chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barmiebrumie Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Here's one I done earlier replaced with new 'straps'/'cross beams' & then droped new panel in, had to weld a few patches on the sides but no big deal & its better than a sheet of steel as the boot floor is made corrigated for structure & remember that if its got 7 seats these rest on the floor, the rear seat belt anchorages come through & are welded to the floor as well so need to be strong in an avent of an accident Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Replacement boot floors are pence from Paddocks etc. Well, <£50 BOOT FLOOR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobyone Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 if it was a free car, i suppose the cross braces and panel could be bought, but looking at the pics you out up, you would still need to patch some of the floor. make the cross braces as they really are just pieces of steel, make 'em out of thicker stuff though. and dont forget to stick 'em to the boot floor before you fit the flor or they will just rust both out again. at least if you get a repair panel you will have access to the fuel pump again. and have rear seat belt anchors too. richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil01 Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 cheers for the input fellas. see the following : cleaned up: removal of wheel arch carpet led to this: and this: and this: and this: DAMN!! its all on the N/S only. O/S is fine. i think i have a leak from the drain channel. the alpine window is fine as i have uber sealed this sacrifiing astethics for now but the water still pools. so i remove the rear interior cards to get a better feel of where it is coming from. Its rasining here so hope fully i will know soon! shame to do all this work if its going to go again!! regards, Neil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinny Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 i would say the water is getting in through the join where the roof is fixed to the sides thay seem to use a white paste type sealer i know its messy but i dried mine and filled the gutter with waxoyl/underseal this has cured it for the last 2 years,chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil01 Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 thanks Chris, yep i can see some of that white sealant crumbling amonst some rust in the gutter!! it is defo coming through from there. dripping down a formed metal "hole" about 2 inches behind the upper mount/anchor for the rear N/S seat belt. thried to upload photo but it wont let me at the mo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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