IanT90

I ended up biting the bullet and ordering new T piece. Had another attempt removing the brake pipe coupling without success. Even had a go at loosening the flexi pipe nut that's solid too but at least that nuts not round so still chance to get it off. In the mean time made a blank coupling for the o/s so I can disconnect that pipe. The n/s I will cut the pipe off just before the coupling and crimp the end to stop fluid loss. I can then remove the T from the bracket and hopefully have more room to maneuver and get the flexi pipe disconnected or at least loose ready for new T when it arrives. Sounds like a good plan hope it works loosing patients now and my deadline keeps slipping.

Just checked I can get a t-piece and the rear flexi hose for less than £10 so not that bothered now it's going to get sorted one way or another.

Thats not a bad idea although its dependent on me being able to disconnect the flexi pipe. On plus side I save on cost of a replacement 3 way connector but have to contend with full system bleed after. Hate bleeding brakes.

Started original topic about week ago now, regarding my issues refurbishing/replacing my rear brake assemblies. Good news is I got the near side brake pipe to bend to the correct shape, got it connected to the caliper. However, I don't seem to be able to free the other end of the pipe from the brass T-piece connector. I bought a good quality 11 mm brake pipe spanner that wouldn't shift it (in fact hex head started to round off). Tried WD40 and heat still no joy. Finally got some mole grips on and tried the brute force approach still won't budge. The off side, which I was dreading came loose easily from the T-piece, although I have left it connected for time being. Firstly this jobs becoming a pain: Debating worst case scenario now, replace the brass T-piece that's assuming I can easily remove the flexi hose from it. Down side major bleed of the complete rear brake assembly and front too (was hoping to bleed individually). Guessing I wont get the 3 way brass coupling cheap probably genuine part only :-(. So Planning to persevere trying to get this awkward coupling off ANY TIP's !!! If I could get this pipe and connector off the rest is fairly straight forward, as I already have new pipe in place to reconnect. Before I start the off side, anticipate the coupling to caliper will be a problem. So Iv'e already ordered brake pipe, new couplings and a flaring tool set (be prepared). As the coupling to T-piece has already been slackened off off side refurb should be easy in comparison. Anyway as mentioned above any tip's, techniques etc will be greatly appreciated. Ian

Ordered brake kit includes flare kit, pipe cutter and pipe bender. Seperately I ordered 25 meters of brake pipe and 20x 10mm fittings. Shouldn't get stuck again.

Not at my local garage don't think he drinks ! Don't think his wife let's him lol bit under the thumb.

Funny enough I now remember replacing all my brake pipes on my old 2a many year's ago now. Didn't think I would need my brake pipe flaring tool again so sold it. Ah well you live and learn.

With my mot imminent decided to overhaul rear brakes: New discs, calipers and pads. Started on near side, disc replacement was straight forward, even greased and checked bearings etc while apart. Then hit problem, brake pipe was not moving stuck solid in the caliper. Tried easing oil and heat but no success. As I was planning replacing caliper thought no problem get new brake pipes replace them too. N/S not to bad got Bearmach part £8 not perfect fit one bend is 45°wrong way but its adaptable. The O/S is only available as original part from LR at £75. So if I have same problem on the O/S I will be fabricating my own pipe. On top of this needed to replace bottom bushes and washers on shocks N/S no problem. O/S could not get bottom nut off so ordered new set of shocks. Can always keep the N/S as a spare. So what started as a straight forward job or 2. Has become a pain in the proverbial the brake pipe is a really annoying problem anyone else had same issues ? Ian

Quick question should the radiator cooling fan be on permanently. Thought the viscous cooling unit only came into operation once the temperature rose to a certain level ? Can anyone confirm or correct me on this. My fan is permanently on from the minute the engine is started. Regards ian

Tried nfu local office would not insure me with my post code, weird it a nice quite area. Tried link from above got quoted £550 so continued ringing. Eventually settled with Lancaster insurance worked out around £340 a year allowed mods covered green laning and off road agreed a price. Only down sides max mileage 8k per year which is less than my annual anyway. The other is an excess of £650. Got extra 25% discount for joining series 3 and 90 110 owners club which is £20 a year. Good price.

Had same problem on mine had it a while turned out to be a leaking water pump. Still not sorted as I am getting a new cambelt fitted at same time. Just keep topping up water every couple of days make sure level doesn't get too low or when you top you can get airlocks in system and overheating. Check around the waterpump for signs of rust

Cheers for that tip I will add them to my list of insurers to call. I reckon I have about 6 companies to ring now, see which gives the best cover at a reasonable price. Thanks again everyone for the feedback as always much appreciated.

Got a few options to try now. Just one more night shift then I can start rimging around. Unfortunately I don't have a garage and average just under 10k a year so that's a bit restricting. On the plus side it's fairly standard and I intend keeping it that way for a while. Appreciate all the feedback

Thanks much appreciated probably go for 15/40 plenty of cheaper options out there for that grade

Which semi synthetic is best to use 10/40 or 15/40 ?

Last one I fitted was a Bermach been fine upto couple months ago. Registered mileage is 140k but can't confirm that's correct. I will carry out full service asap see if that helps sort it. Had couple of conflicting suggestions regsrds the correct grade of oil to use. What's the general consensus based on a well worn engine ?

Thanks pretty much standard except for a roof rack disco alloys and fitted side windows in rear.

My insurance is up for renewal looking for a company who don't mind upgrades like fitting rear forward facing seats. 20 year old defender registered as commercial. Last company was cheap enough but wouldn't allow me to fit rear seats. Any recommendations

Funny enough due for a service and when I checked oil level it was on low side, I only had some 10 40 available so topped up with a litre of that till I get around to doing service and oil change.

Had an on going problem my oil pressure warning light keeps flickering intermittently and sometimes stays off. Seems to be more of a problem after start up than when the engine is warm. Checked oil level that's fine, also fitted new oil pressure switch so not that. Even replaced spade end connection to switch as the old one was loose. Any ideas it's a 300tdi engine.

Just a quick update just got my replacement indicator stalk this morning fitted it took me 15 mins and hey presto light issue is resolved. Just annoyed I had to replace the light switch and didn't need to, but at least I have a spare now just in case. Thanks for the help and advice much appreciated saved cost of an auto electrician. Regards Ian

Well I decided to buy a new relay and it arrived yesterday, didn't work replacing it but at least it eliminates another possible fault. Just waiting for new indicator arm to arrive now !

Its a 300 TDI 90 and just after ordering a new indicator stalk, I discovered some heat damage to the C282 yellow relay in the fuse box. The pin 30 on the relay itself appears heat damages plastic melted around the pin, the socket also has evidence of heat damage. Suspect this may be my cause ?

Thank's I will look at this, as I am stumped at the moment. Search for a wiring diagram now. Regards Ian

The flash works using the indicator stalk so suspect that's okay. Had the off side headlamp off no wiring issues. Realised that when ignition is off headlamp goes off and reverts to side lights until ignition started again, wonder if that's a clue ?