IanT90

Recently purchased set of 4 second hand rear forward facing seats with seat belt support bar and chassis brace etc. Thought it would be a straight forward job fitting but nothing ever runs smooth even with well planned out jobs. Started on the off side and commenced by fitting the lower brace which attaches to the rear cross member. First issue the face that sits against the underside of the box section/wheel arch was about 5-7 mm away from the surface. Okay no major problem can elongate holes in support bracket to accommodate that or put up with a slight deformation of the box section (which I have done temporarily so I can get the holes drilled). The next stage is where I am stuck, the seat belt retaining bar does not marry up with the holes I drilled for the lower brace. Does anyone have any pictures to show how this is supposed to work ? Tried trawling the internet for diagrams and pictures without success getting really frustrating now as the actual seat installation parts a piece of cake. All help will be greatly appreciated, I have pictures if it helps ? Ian

It's okay located it and problem sorted

Can anyone tell me the location of the brake light switch for a defender 300TD!. ie under bonnet or in foot well behind the pedal ? Regards Ian

Cheers for the help :-) happy again.

Just a quick update tracked the dodgy section of wiring was under the bonnet. Sorted now light goes off and stays off :-)

Already notified insurance its got 4 rear seats when I changed company this year just to make sure I am covered. Same with any non std mods ie custom front grille, alloy wheels, side windows even got roof-rack on insurance. Doesn't mention seating on reg document. Considered re registering as county instead of commercial. However, insurance cost was not much different between county and mine modified so not worth changing. Thanks for bringing it up though I might of overlooked this if I hadn't been told on a previous post.

Sorry forgot to thank you for info much appreciated.

Great next project after fitting rear seats.

Been considering paneling the inside of my 90 and being short of cash really like the insulation and hardboard idea. Got some nice blue fabric which I used on my headlining I can glue that to the hardboard. What thickness of insulation do you use ?

I had stubborn bolt on one of my calipers stars had rusted away. Cut most of the old caliper off with angle grinder the kept heating and cooling with oil inbetween did this for half an hour then hammered an old socket on got an initial 1/4 turn then seized so let it cool oil again etc took me hour and half in total but eventually got it off. Not as bad as your problem but tip is small turns let it cool friction of undoing heats it and it expands again. Two options completely drill it out and re-tap the thread. Second dill pilot hole smaller than original bolt fit a sacrificial hexagonal head bolt in the hole then tack weld each end to original bolt or what remains then try the heat cool oil trick. Its the cooling thats important thats what breaks the rust holding the thread in place heating alone only works with two disimilar metals with different thermal expansion coefficients. When the metals are the same they generally expand at same rate the rust being an oxidised metal tends to fracture and loosen during the cooling thats when you use oil in the space friction of undoing soon closes gaps again so slowly slowly. Sorry if I am teaching my grandmother to suck eggs. Its an old fitter technique I was taught. Another tip was use cold water as lubricant never used that one. Good luck ian

Cheers for the info much appreciated. Picked it up today and TBH they have done a good job on the repairs to the chassis was quite extensive on rear cross member. Anyway I diverse, took it for a spin and the usual intermittent oil light fault occurred, I pulled over and disconnected the wire to sender and set off again. Low and behold the light came on again as if it was still connected, now 99.9% convinced its a wiring fault, This I can sort out thanks to all the advice, will go ahead and fit an oil pressure gauge anyway good back-up. Thanks to everyone who contributed much appreciated. Ian

One last question assume pressure gauge fits in the end of the T piece and pressure switch goes into the side arm of the T piece. Noticed the T piece is for a TD5 assume it fits the 300tdi ?

Cheers for that should get the old girl back tomorrow first job disconnect the sender see if I get a light. Fingers crossed I do. Like the pressure gauge and sender assume this replaces my oil pressure sensor ? What oil pressure should I be expecting if its okay ie normal ? Assume pressure varies between initial start up and normal driving. Regards ian

That's the one great little bit of kit thanks, just saved me a job was about to post the link Thanks Ian

When It initially failed the oil pressure light was mentioned but only under advisory as was an oil leak. Had a feeling it was a case of cutting the wire not a problem just need to make sure I cut the right one :-) As for pressure gauge any idea on fittings required ? Assume T piece fits into engine with pressure sensor on one side and pipework on the other to the gauge ?

Can't set up link as in work and using my phone. However found it on ebay following description: Motorcycle car brake/clutch bleeder bleed one way valve & tube tool kit set. Price - £3.29 free postage Seller - delhanway2009 If still struggling to find it let me know I will use my pc at home tomorrow and attach the link Ian

Bought this while ago but will try and find link

I spend most of the time submitting posts moaning or asking for help and support. So for once I wanted to submit a positive bit of advice. Following my recent saga replacing the rear brake disc's,calipers,pads and pipes etc I finally got to the last stage bleeding the system and I dreaded it, having done this many time over the years various way's including easy bleeds. I bought a simple one way valve with two pipes attached. Connect one end to bleed nipple open the bleed nipple. Place container under the other pipe. Next pump the brake pedal I did 6 to 10 to make sure as I couldn't watch for air bubbles. Tighten bleed nipple move to next wheel etc I repeated this a second time topping up the reservoir after each wheel. It worked great easy to use,one man operation wish I had come across this year's ago. Some of you may already be aware of this device but for those who don't and still struggle with the old easy bleed it's worth a change. Cost me less than £5 off ebay great tool :-). Works on clutch system too.

Funny enough I took the console off thinking straight forward job disconnect wires to the oil warning indication light slip a spade end on and connect the other end to the oil pressure switch. Not that straight forward. The connection is like a multi plug with wires soldered on which plugs into the instrument cluster ? What was interesting though was while the console was off I started the engine light went off, reved the engine still no light. Refitted console no light drove down street it came on again intermittently. Anyway in for welding at moment for the MOT not going well though originally only 3 small sections needed patching. However it appears it needs extensive work on rear cross member and tow bar supports, cost around £250 so oil light is on back burner. Hope it's the wiring though getting expensive keeping this beast on the road :-(. Last thing I need now is cam bearing/cam replacement or oil pump replacement. Thanks for the feedback

Its a 300TDI engine. Like the by-pass wire idea will try it tomorrow, finishing my stint of night shifts.

About a month ago I posted a topic about my intermittent oil warning light coming on. At the time I had checked the oil level and it was okay, so replaced oil pressure switch still no joy. Recommendations from the previous post suggested an oil change and as it was due for a service that was my next option. However, between then and now I've been working on rear brakes etc preparing it for MOT, so the result of the oil change was on the back burner. I changed oil and oil filter, light came on initially as I would expect after a change. Then went off great thought I had sorted it. Driving it to MOT station the other day same problem has come back. I suspect wiring problem somewhere as it has no specific pattern when it comes on. Sometimes goes off when accelerating then back on/off when idling. Other times it stays on for a spell when I am driving then goes off for no reason, when I've braked or even turned a corner. Checked wiring from pressure switch to loom even replaced the spade connector with new. Any words of wisdom or advice ? Regards Ian

Thanks guy's much appreciated, the last logical part of my brain that's still functioning correctly told me I was right but just needed some reassurance. Already replaced the N/S disc and don't remember seeing a LHS label. Or if I did I just went ahead knowing LHS was the N/S. As I said previously lack of sleep plays tricks on your mind and you start to doubt yourself. Thanks again much appreciated I can crack on now. Regards Ian

Brake pipe problem resolved thankfully. Apart from fabrication of a new pipe for the caliper which is 90% done, with finish when caliper is in position. However, just finished stripping and preparing the O/S for re-assembly. I took the new brake disc out the box and noticed it said RHS (Not vented but drilled and grooved solid disc, hence my question). Logic tells me its correct but lack of sleep over the last week has taken it's toll and just wanted some confirmation ? O/S is RHS N/S is LHS I always remember it as sitting in the drivers seat O/S right ? May seem like a daft question but once there is that niggling doubt in your mind you become more uncertain, specially when your mentally drained after 6 x 12 hour night shifts and working on Land Rover too. Ian

Got new T piece in post great, so decided to persevere and did eventually get the hose connector off. Bad news the new T-piece had faulty thread (no I didn't cross thread it, turns out it was a Britpart). Anyway carried on and got the rounded pipe connector off too so just replaced the original T-piece. Left the O/S blanked off so I remove the caliper and start fabricating the new brake pipe for that side. Connected the N/S pipework up so that's sorted now as soon as I bleed the system I can tune the old girl around and start with the disc etc. Thanks for the advice. Ian

This is getting beyond a joke now. I have isolated the T-piece blanking of the feeds to each rear caliper, I got a replacement pipe for the near side and new caliper fitted so no problem there. The pipe on off side got damaged removing from T-piece (as its normally only supplied as original part costing £75) this would would have been a problem but got a kit and pipework so can make my own, again no problem. Being able to separate the flexi pipe from the T-piece is going to be a problem I suspect looks week seized in the T- piece. Not a problem you would think get a new flexi hose £4 to go with the new T-piece I have ordered ! This is where the real problem begins There is no way on God's earth of undoing the other end of the flexi pipe. It's covered in hamerite/rust and years of debris from a previous owner and god knows what else, and would have to be cut off. Ah but I have a kit to replace the pipework all the way to the front of the vehicle you might say ? Yes but I haven't got a clue what connections are used ie looks like a female connector on the rigid pipe, which connects to the flexi pipe via a bracket. I cannot find a diagram or sizes of the connectors. I am going to try lots of WD40 and heat on the T-piece to hopefully get the flexi off but as a fall back I need the sizes and a diagram of the flexi connection to brake pipe on the chassis Getting desperate now can anyone help ? Its a 90 Defender 1995 without ABS.