IanT90

Aha that's it I didn't know there is a right or wrong way to fit the slave so fitted it with the bleed nipple at the bottom to make access easier. Will this cause my problem ? I also fitted the new one this way too as I didnt know there was a right and wrong way.

Yes the springs are still attached to the pedal (its a 300TDI by the way). Not actually tried to actuate the gears but suspect the clutch is not working at all so have not tried. I have checked the access panel off the top of the housing to check the rod adjustment at the master cylinder I can move it back and forth using a screw driver. When you get it so far with the screw driver the spring actuates and the pedal goes back to its normal position.

Just got my defender back last Monday after a week having gearbox reconditioned and new clutch assembly fitted. Drove home from transmission specialists and it was like a dream all gears where silky smooth I was delighted. The next day drove it again and it felt a bit sticky on the gears, again drove day after and it was a bit worse. Surmised it was possibly the slave cylinder as the clutch pedal felt light not much pressure similar to a car ! usually needs more foot pressure to activate. So ordered a new clutch slave cylinder (genuine part this time too) and decided to fit it today, went in easy enough although I thought there was a little too much movement in the push rod (was still connected to the clip though). I used my easy bleed system and bled the cylinder till no air came out and disconnected it all. However, when I went to press the clutch pedal it went straight to the floor and stayed there. I thought I had not bled it enough so tried to reconnect the easy bleed and start again but must have damaged the thread on the reservoir cap and fluid leaked everywhere. Next resort got my son out of bed and decided to revert to the old foot technique, this didn't work either fluid was being forced through and air but no pressure in the pedal, still sticking to the floor after being depressed. Decided to put old slave back on I new it worked before removal(even if there was a minor leak, blow me same issue could not bleed it pedal has no pressure. Spoke to guy at transmission garage he said fetch it in Monday and they would look at it. Problem is I cannot drive the damn thing so only course of action is the get it delivered by a recovery vehicle extra cost to me. Does anyone have any advice as I am at my wits end, if its a fault on the clutch assembly when it was fitted, its definitely going back Monday and they can sort it, but if its something I have done or not doing please advise was planning a short break next week so in dog house with my missus again. After all the expense and time put into it over last 12 months I seriously considered getting shut of it today thats how fed up I am at the moment. So if anyone can help or give advice I would greatly appreciate it. Ian

I was also asking the same question recently for my 90 hard top, you can I believe fit side windows and the DVLA are not interested. However fitting seats or changing the colour for example does require notification. I also discovered that you can convert a 110 to a station wagon and get it re-registered through the DVLA, but this does not apply to SWB for some reason. You can register the changes for a 90 but it remains a commercial. I just wanted to fit side windows, rear seats and respray it. Wasn't that bothered about conversion through DVLA to SW just thought it simplified matters. As I don't need to re-register as a SW it makes life simpler and avoids the dreaded VAT issue mentioned above. My only dilemma now is whether to go for 2 forward facing or 4 inner facing seats (I know inner facing are dangerous etc).

I got a TRW/Girling today, bit too late to fit it though as I am working again tonight. Cost me £28 but hopefully it will be worth it for peace of mind. Struggled a bit to bleed the old one and surprisingly there was plenty of hydraulic fluid still in the master reservoir. That got me thinking again so did the taste test and I am 90% certain now the oil leak is engine oil not hydraulic. That gives me 2 problems: First is that the oil is coming from the engine! having done the cylinder head in January this year due to oil leak at rear of engine I am now wondering if its not been sorted after all and is running down to the bell housing (problem is transmission specialists said inside of bell housing had oil in?) During the gearbox rebuild they replaced the crank oil seal and bush too so convinced oil is not coming from there. The other thing is that after bleeding the clutch today the pressure in the pedal still seems low, compared with the period before I had the rebuild on the gearbox (I have bigger leg muscles on the left due to clutch operation, now it appears relatively easy like a car ?). I did find some improvement today in gear changes while collecting the replacement slave cylinder, but still getting the odd sticky changes and no where near as good as Monday when I picked it up, the gear changes where like silk across all the ranges. Planning to change the slave tomorrow morning as soon as I get home, so will let you know how it performs after the change. The Guy at Land Ranger services said its common when gearboxes are re-built/refitted its common to get mis-alignments or part failures ? He was a bit vague with the comment and didn't qualify his remark with an explanation why. The money I have been and will be throwing at this thing lately, I could have gone and bought a newer TD5 with less issues. I keep getting the raised eye brows off her indoors lately too, every time I buy another part for it, plus the constant nagging about the oil leaks.

Changed the slave first around December last year maybe even January this year, cannot be specific. I then discovered the leak running down my clutch pedal and decided to replace the master which I did in May this year. The Master is definitely a Bearmach I am not so sure that's failed now, the slave I am not so sure about the make now, it was cheap. Until gearbox went in for the overhaul I had not noticed the leak from the bell housing, but the guy's said it was oiled up inside there and cleaned it out with brake cleaner before re-assembly. It was definitely worse when I got the defender back on Monday. Only driven it 3 times since and short journey's I noticed last night while struggling to select gears that the pressure in the clutch pedal had dropped off a little so assumed it was one of the cylinders leaking. Assumed again wrongly it was the master at first but after some consideration wondered how oil could leak into the bell housing from there ? So realised it has to be the slave as you said Mo. However, unless its a cheap nasty part which it most likely is I am dumb founded its failed so quickly ! Thought it might help BrianJJ14 make a decision on how to progress with his problem as it sounds similar ? clutch cylinder failure. I am going to bleed the system and make sure the reservoir is fully topped up this morning when I get home from my night shift. Then I will order a new slave cylinder and if in stock will fit later today. Going to try and get a TRW Lucas part as they supply the OEM to Land Rover. Alternatively may consider Girling, used that make on my old series models in past with no issues if they still supply them for the Defender or at a push Bearmach, as I suspect the master is now okay (always trusted them up to now). I will be avoiding Allmakes and Britpart at all cost. Just hope I have not done any detrimental damage to my new synchro rings in the mean time (cost £500 for parts from Land Rover, transmission guy's didn't use cheap shoddy parts there phew!) I will have to be careful with my gear selection on way home this morning, fortunately not far to travel only 9 miles and mostly motorway so not many gear changes. Regards Ian Hope my post provides some help and advice to anyone reading and this finally sorts my gearbox/gear change problems for the long term or at least foreseeable future (particularly the oil leak's on my drive, which my wife is getting more aggravated with daily ). Just my diff/prop shaft oil seals to do and replacement of a couple of oil cooler pipes which are weeping and then oil leak free - LOL and pigs might fly.

Just had second thoughts might be the slave cylinder that's more likely to be leaking directly into the bell housing. Will check that first whatever the fault I have learned my lesson and will go for genuine parts in future. Ian

Hi there just checked the master cylinder I fitted, it was a Bearmach and I bought it in April and fitted it in May this year ? As aftermarket parts go I have always had no problems with Bearmach in the past ! Notified the seller I suspect its faulty, will inspect it tomorrow and if its leaking as I suspect will have to get a new one and hopefully get a refund on this part. Any recommendations on which manufacturer to use Girling or just buy from Land Rover as genuine part ? Regards Ian

That's a weird one had problems myself and replaced both cylinders specially as master was leaking. Then realised I also needed drastic remedial work on gearbox so bit the bullet and took it to transmission specialist who just finished rebuilding my box with new input shaft (splines worn), new gear #2 and synchro rings plus bearings, they also replaced clutch with HD kit I supplied and welded part of chassis where cross member fits. Picked it up Monday and it drove home went like a dream no clunk's or struggling to find gears. However, got it home and noticed oil leaking from the wading hole on the crank case. The following day took it out and gear selection was deteriorating, struggling to get specific gears again. Tonight while driving to work, it seemed to be getting worse (considered taking it back to the transmission specialists) then noticed the clutch pedal was lacking pressure and realised I must have a leak on the master cylinder and that's where the oil leak is coming from. As I had a new crank oil seal fitted as well with the clutch kit. I don't know what make the master cylinder was, I got it off Ebay thought it was Bearmach usually avoid Britparts. Its been on less than 2 months since I fitted the master, hard to believe it's failed already but everything points to that. So when I ready this topic it made even more sense as the symptoms are similar. I am going to see if I can find out who supplied the part and see if I can get a refund and next time get a quality part, may even splash out on a Land Rover genuine part it will be worth it to get it sorted. Regards Ian

I appreciate all the advice and its given me plenty of thoughts on how to move forward. My existing insurance is cheap only £200 a year don't know what NFU will cost me in comparison. Anyway that's besides the point at the moment I need to get my mods done. First stage is to get my side windows fitted, the restricted vision, particularly when reversing (blind spots) drives me nuts. I can then get it re-sprayed. This I can do with the existing insurance company (a one off cost of £14 to add windows) and I can then notify the DVLA whilst its off road being re-sprayed. If the seating does not need to be registered with the DVLA as the advice suggests, I can do this at a later date. I am sure my son can manage sitting up front in the center seat till the existing insurance runs out next year. This will save me the cancellation fee with my existing insurance. However, I am now deliberating which seating option to go for in the rear. Inner facing seats was my first plan this gives me 7 seats and they fold out the way when not in use, plus cost is not to bad either to buy and fit. But on the other hand forward facing seats are safer for passengers all be it at an extra cost and less space (I know they fold away too but are a little more obtrusive than the inner facing seats), the safety aspect however, does seem to outweigh the benefits of the inner seats though. Anyway I have plenty of time to reconsider my seating options, priority at the moment is to get the windows fitted and the body re-sprayed. Once again thanks for all the advice I will keep you posted on my progress. Regards Ian

I have a basic hard top 90 with 3 front seats and no side windows. I bought some sliding second hand side windows with the intention of fitting once all my mechanical work was done, then get a re-spray and fit some rear seats. While sourcing some rear seats recently I was advised to contact my insurance to see if they will accept this modification. Glad I did because they got back to me and declined the seats, and declined the side windows too, unless I was upgrading/ renewing existing windows (for a £14 admin fee). As they seem to think I have fixed windows in the back, changing to sliding isn't a big problem for a nominal cost of £14, it at least improves visibility when driving blind spots drive me nuts. I was told they could cancel the existing insurance and find an alternative under-writer who possibly would allow the rear seats (but this would incur a cancellation fee and probably higher annual premium). Considered is it worth waiting till my insurance runs out next year and do the mods just before then insure with another company ? Then the thought crossed my mind If I am having a respray later this year, I should notify the DVLA plus could do the changes then and change insurance. This leads me to my question does anyone have experience of changing their vehicle registration to a car/county from a commercial ? If I am changing my insurance anyway, I may be better to insure as a county under car insurance than as a commercial vehicle again. I would appreciate any advice. Regards Ian

Really interesting thread specially the PDF link on how to tune a 300TDI. However, I am a firm believer in if its not broken don't tweak it. So as my Defender is running sweetly at present, with just a puff of smoke at initial start up, I will leave it that way and give the fuel pump a wide birth in particular fuel boost adjustments. Thanks anyway guys for the the links, was an interesting read and passed so time and expanded my knowledge. Regards Ian

Just been trawling through Ebay as its Sunday and I was bored. Suddenly I came across a "fuel boost pin". Never heard of one of these before, there again my knowledge with respect to TDI engines is limited so that's no surprise. It's claimed that you can get improved MPG and an increase of 15BHP by fitting one of these for a cost of around £30. It does say some later 300TDI models need to be electronically tuned so wont work, not sure if this applies to mine need to have a look. Apparently if it's a 4 screw square face on the pump you can use the pin. Does anyone have experience of these ? and if so, is it a worth while mod for the price ? Quotes a 15BHP increase, fair enough but that could just make up for the loss in BHP due to age of the engine anyway. It mentions improved fuel economy too but doesn't say how much ! Is it just one of these gimmicks that makes you think your actually accelerating faster and your fuel gauge is moving down slower, but in point of fact not a lots changed ? and your money would have been better spent on redex to clean out your injectors etc Would appreciate some feedback Regards Ian

That's strange just replaced my steering box recently on my 300TDI with a recon unit which was exchange. Came with a 2 year warranty for £180 as long as you send the old unit back (they arrange collection free via a courier). I was delighted with the box great service and it works like a dream now with no leaks. I would highly recommend them and they are always in high demand so may take a couple of days. Or you can take you original unit off and send that to them and they will refurbish that for you. Only two points to mention, I was told the drop arm is a tad difficult to remove so bought a new one as replacement unit doesn't come with one. However, with some gentle presuasion, ease it oil and a decent puller I did get my original off so now have a spare. The other thing when I came to fit the box the mounting holes where too small, apparently on 300TDI there are two sizes 7/8" and on later models 12mm. The replacement box had the smaller diameter holes 7/8" so had two options get smaller bolts or drill them out to 12mm, I opted for the latter and problem solved. Suggest you check the hole diameter before you order and specify (or ask them to supply the bolts just in case). Don't remember the company name off top of my head, but will look it up and reply to you in a PM later. Regards Ian Mobile 07858491865

Sorry to here about the theft I would be gutted if it happened to me and mine is not in the same league as the one in your picture. I noticed same steering lock I used when I first got my defender, until I realised you can slide it across take the cover from the steering wheel front and access the nut. All you need then is a socket ratchet and the steering wheel is off, spare steering wheels are easy to come by. All they need to do then is get past the steering lock and that's not to hard if they have time. Anyway the old steering lock now goes on my brake pedal and I use another old fashioned Autolok 2000 which covers most of the steering wheel. Been contemplating an electrical isolation switch too but kept putting it off. Think its just gone up in my to do list.

Silly question but you don't have one of these new defenders with aircon by chance. Mate of mine has recently been having overheating problems on his car occasionally turned out it was when ever he had his aircon switched on. When I checked it hadn't been re gassed after he had the engine rebuilt. Got it re gassed and problem went. Maybe a bit obscure or even irrelevant but thought worth a mention.

Thanks for the advice looked on the archive and the picture of the130 clutch plate looks exactly the same as the one I was planning to get in the heavy duty clutch kit ? not sure from picture and no details in description but suspect the release bearing is metal too ! The release fork is definately reinforced. Its not a Valeo suspect its Britpart so that's a bit off putting not many good reviews about there parts. I usually go for Bearmach not been disappointed yet. As for doing it myself must admit I hate paying garage bills and will tackle almost anything, but having had previous experience taking a box out without a hoist and on my own it doesn't fill me with excitment. Not worth investing in a hoist probably won't use it again and nowhere to store one, I could rent a hoist for a couple of days its cheaper than garage bill ! Its all the internal stripping out I don't like boring and tedious don't mind the actual getting the box off. I heard you can pull both the boxes back 6 to 8 inches just enough to change the clutch, but fitting the release bearing is tricky. Besides I am 95% sure I am swapping the gearbox for a recon box anyway so the whole lots coming out. Seems steep but at this stage I woul probably be happier to let a garage do it and pay £400 labour. However, if I get quoted more than that for labour, I may review the situation and get a price for hiring a hoist and do it myself.

After completing my last lot of jobs to get the old girl through her MOT, last one being the steering box (heavy and akward but managed it ). I am now looking at my list of jobs to get done and high on the list is the cam belt which I might tackle myself in the next month and the other is replacing the gearbox and clutch. In my younger days (in the long distant past) I had the gearbox and transfer box off my old 2A and although it was heavy work and a pain to do alone, I managed it with not too much trouble. However, dont remember having to remove cross members then, I had no carpets or soundproofing or floor to remove (already off) and I also had seat base out as part of refurbishment so access was easy. Now I no longer have access to a garage and no hoist available. Just a driveway, two axle stands and a 2 ton trolley jack I am now passed my youth and middle age and heading into my twighlight years, the thought of fighting with a gearbox etc is slightly off putting. As I have a lump sum of cash at my disposal soon, so I have decided to get a reconditioned gearbox and get the clutch replaced with a heavy duty version at same time and pay someone to fit it. A bit extravigant I know but worth it for this job. I have a couple of issues with the gearbox: gear selection (even with new MTF oil), rattle from clutch plate springs during idle and finally an oil leak fairly certain its gearbox or transfer oil but not sure which (too clean for engine oil) coming from wading drain hole (it's not clutch fluid, both master and slave cylinders replaced with new). Not sure if the clutch release arm has been replaced in the past with a reinforced version, so worth getting that done as part of clutch kit ! I have a couple of question's: 1. Of all the recon gearbox suppliers on the internet etc are there any I should avoid and any that members recommend ? 2. Are there any companies who supply and fit recon boxes that can be recommended ? Ideally in the North West area ? 3. Alternatively would I be better just getting an exchange recon gearbox and getting a local Landrover garage to fit it ? 4. Is there anything else worth getting done while my gearbox and clutch are being done ? ie crank output oil seal, bronze bush that takes the input shaft ? 5. I am allowing £600 (+ surcharge for exchange) for a reconditioned box (R380) and around £120 for a heavy duty clutch kit. Any idea what sort of cost should I expect for labour, I am assuming 8 hrs at around £40/hr so £320 to £350 does this sound reasonable ? I would expect a fully equiped land rover specialist garage should be able to swap a gearbox and refit a clutch in 8 hrs, or am I underestimating ? Any Feedback, advice and recommendations would be gratefully recieved.

All I have to do now is find a local tool supplier. Realised it was a tight one Torque setting is 179NM, everyone warned me it was difficult to get the old one off so ordered a new one. If I do manage to get the old one off before I send my old box to the refurb. company (its an exchange) I may stick it on Ebay or just keep it for the future when spares get rare. Very grateful for all the help, thanks again.

cheers for that

Presume that's very firmly tight Sadly its one tool I am missing (Stilson's) besides the correct socket for the job. I know how have I survived so long without a pair ! Tried the biggest spanner size I have 32mm and it's just a little too small. Suspect the nut is imperial anyway.

I am in the process of fitting a new steering box and have just come to fit the drop arm and realised I don't possess a socket large enough and don't have a clue what size to get ? Searched the internet but all I get is its a nut and the part number NH614041. Anyone got any idea what size it is and where in the Wigan, Warrington or St Helens area I can get one ? Need to close the job off by Wednesday as I am back on shift Thursday and won't get the chance and the old girl is due back in the garage for her MOT re-test next Monday. Any help much appreciated Ian

Just replaced n/s swivel on my 95 300tdi that was taper. Not sure if they are interchangeable check the specs for both swivels or measure with micrometer if you have one. If they match just drift out old races and buy set of new pins top and bottom with matched races for a taper roller set up. Just thinking off top of my head maybe railko was used to allow for abs sensor set up on the disco don't have enough knowledge to know if there is a taper roller set up for the top pin which accomodates an abs. Ian

Took the advice and used vice with washing up liquid and although tricky managed to get it in. However, one face was flush and the other was sticking proud. So as not to be beaten I found a large jubilee clip and closed it so it sat on the rim of the shock allowing the flush face of the bush to be free to move. I put it back in the vice and with a liberal coating of washing up liquid tightened the vice again, bit fiddley trying to keep the round clip in place to begin with but eventually got it cenral and hey presto it pushed the bush through the vacant space in the jubilee clip and was perfectly seated in position with equal ditribution either side of the shock. I think for most people the solution Les gave is far simpler and makes sence, but it did give me a stupid sence of self satisfaction to know I managed it in one section. I wont feel as daunted now doing the other side but will lok for something a little less Heath Robinson next time other than a Jubilee clip. I just need to finding a metal ring of the right diameter in my odds and sods collection and job will be easier next time. Thanks again for all ther help and support. On to my last job before my MOT re-test, replacing my old leaking steering box with a refurbished unit. Just got to get myself a new drop arm not a lot of price differance between a new unit and getting local LR garage to remove the old one so no brainer. Oh well here is to fighting with siezed bolts and transmission fluid dripping everywhere.

Hey presto got the begger off next problem the top bush inner collar was siezed on. Got that off with heat and wd40. Maybe I am missing something but how the hell do I get the new top bush in ? How do I get it through the narrow section in the middle Only replaced ones on cars which had a shallow taper and easily drifted in with a rubber Mallet. Any ideas !