IanT90

Well access not a problem and top bolt came off without ease it oil too. The bottom bolt is another matter the whole shock turns when I try to undo the nut, there does not appear there is anything to lock the shock in position with like a spanner etc Any clues ?

I have another little task as part of my MOT failure list. Replacement of worn rear shock absorber bushes. May sound lazy but do I need to remove the road wheels to take the shock absorbers off ? I know it makes access easier but have the front end up on my axle stands while I work on the steering box and drag link section. Still waiting for box to arrive so stuck at the moment. I could use my trolley jack and remove the wheel but don't like working on vehicles with just a trolley jack bad practice. So was wondering if I can remove the shock's while sat on the road wheels, replace the bushes and refit ? Any comments recommendations ?

Thanks as I was suspecting but you confirmed it need to take it to a garage. Regards Ian

As part of my MOT failure list the oil leaking from my steering box needed addressing. I could have gone for the cheap option of replacing seals but as I don't know how long the box has been on and the general condition of the other components, I decided to replace it. Two options one get a second hand unit around £75 to £80 which all seem to have the same description funny enough " in good working order no leaks" but also have the comments "NO returns accepted". I ruled out buying new purely because of cost. So next option was a reconditioned box with 24 month warranty at £180, as I am intending to keep the old girl thought it was worth the expense. Sat down to read how to remove the old box and replace, seemed pretty straight forward, even I could manage it without too much support or advice until I got to the drag link arm removal. Apparently I require a specialised puller to remove it, typical. I checked and the reconditioned unit does not come with one fitted, so it's got to come off ! Next possible problem is there are 2 different variants of box 3 and 4 bolt. One gives more turns than the other got that much, typically mine is a 4 bolt so hopefully when replacement box comes today its the same. I have no intention of buying a special tool just to remove the drop arm (wife already considering divorce after all the money I have spent in last 12 month on parts and tools). Is there any tips for removing this stubborn/awkward item without a specialist puller or should I go to my nearest land rover garage and get them to remove it for me. Any advice as usual will be greatly appreciated. Regards Ian

Thanks for all the advice, bit of a struggle getting the old one's off but managed it eventually and copper slipped the new before fitting all sorted, confident that they are back as before within +/- 1.0 mm. However, the tie rod track rod end was another matter. I have ended up buying a new tie rod, the track rod was completely seized on to the rod. No matter how much lubricant, tapping with a hammer, gentle heating and brute force I couldn't shift it. The actual tie bar at the other end doesn't seem a problem and should come off easy enough. Only £10 incl. VAT for replacement rod so hardly worth struggling with the old one. Anyway, until the new tie rod can be collected at the end of the week it's on to the next job removing the steering box ! But that's reserved for another posting :-) Thanks Ian

I have just done mine along with everything else including new swivel seals etc Ended up replacing stub axle too bearing had collapsed and damaged it. Until you start stripping things down you have no idea what to expect. I would have needed a second motgage if I had taken mine to a garage. I also changed my brake caliper at same time. Nice luxury getting someone else to do the work but sometimes jobs are not straight forward and costs can spiral add the labour on top and its ouch. I don't know where abouts in the country you're based but on average I would agree with the above comments small garage will average £30 to £40 an hour labour. Good luck

Thanks for the feedback will measure. I had the joints off recently while doing work on swivel and seals etc So not a problem. Just wondering if anyone knows which thread is used on which side of the vehicle to save time and make sure I am undoing not winding on ?

To begin my saga just completed my N/S swivel and axle overhaul including new brake caliper :-) really pleased with myself. Thanks for all the advice and support much appreciated. Took the old girl in for her mot today and she failed nothing to major phew ! One of my track rod ends has excessive play so decided to buy set of 3 so I can replace them all in one go. I am aware they have opposite threads to what you expect but unsure which is which ? So I don't screw up the tracking was planning to mark up and count the turns but want to make sure I am undoing them not the opposite. Also have to replace bushes on rear shocks any tips when taking the shocks off as I plan to give them a clean and coat of hammerite before I refit. All advice welcome. Regards Ian

Just changed my oil used mtf must admit was expecting miracles. In reality it has reduced gearbox noise but initial gear changes are now more crunchy than before I changed the oil. However it does improve after driving for a while. The oil did need changing it was black and gunky. But honestly can't say it's made any dramatic difference.

Cheers for that makes sence its kinda what I thought but nice to have some confirmation. Thanks for the feedback appreciated.

When I was struggling to remove the needle roller bearing from the stub axle I demolished the oil seal in the process. Did make it easier to get the bearing out though. Now my predicament is I am unsure which way around the replacement goes. My workshop manual doesn't show the right orientation. I do know there is a right and wrong way. Does anyone have any idea ? Some advice would be greatly appreciated.

No such luck for me just a narrow rim. Orderd a set of punches of various diameters just find the most appropriate size and take my time.

That figures but not so critical with new bearing and race, suppose mixing a worn race with new bearing or visa versa isn't a good idea.

Thanks much appreciated I particularly like the slot in the old race so I can remove it after. Regards Ian

Just spent best part of an hour trying to get the wheel bearing races out with a puller with no success. Didn't want to drift them out in case I did some damage. They appear to be in good serviceable condition. Could I leave them in and re-use with the new bearings ? Read somewhere that bearings and races come in matched sets so not sure if I can re-use. If push comes to shove I will have to drift them out with a punch or old screw driver, then there is the problem of how to get the new ones in I don't have a press was thinking of using the old bearing and a G clamp ! Any recommendations ? holding up the job now getting withdrawal symptoms now not driven the old girl in over a week

Cheers for that I will take your advice. Although already used some on top and bottom pins plus taper bearings. Also a small amount on the cv. If I use anymore I would be leaving the swivel housing short. Was hoping for a little left over from greasing the wheel hub bearings to compensate. Suppose its swings and roundabouts. Just thought cv could have done with a little more. May order another small pack of one shot off ebay to top up swivel housing. Thanks for the advice otherwise might have mixed them in the cv. Cheers ian

How about using a lithium moly grease ?

So do I go for a specific cv grease ?

I bought 2 kits for my axle/swivel refurb. One came with one shot to go in the swivel housing. Another smaller one came with the wheel hub bearing kit. However I could do with packing my cv joint aswell while its out but don't want to use the sachets from these kits. Without going out to specifically buy more one shot what alternative could I use that I could buy from say a local car parts shop ? Video's on you tube suggest any EP grease which I suspect is Lithium based. Any advice on this would be appreciated.

Problem sorted used stanley blade tapped it around the back until I could get a flat screwdriver blade behind then worked aroind gently teasing it off. So its off with no damage.

I was led to believe that all makes is the worst of the pattern parts followed by britcar especially for bearings etc thats why I was going for Bearmach ?

Thanks but think this is for earlier model suspect mine is ftc3154.

Planning to buy new stub axle but want to re use my original bush. Any tips on how to get it off suspect using heat to expand it but would welcome advice. Plus was going for Bearmach stub rather than cheaper Britpart option is it worth paying the extra ?

Sorry not brass its phosphor bronze.

Thanks for advice Les,debating getting a new stub axle rather than risk the old damaged part. As the original brass bush is on good order and is now matched to the existing cv. Thought about swapping it to new stub. Is it just a straight forward heat it up till it expands and comes off or is it more tricky ?