Anderzander
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Posts posted by Anderzander
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Can't believe it - after posting that and then coming out from work - some one's nicked it tonight
Wasn't cheap either.
Sigh
some people are "Persons Resembling a Pink Starfish" aren't they?
Trying to think where it could have happened - at work I park in a secure carpark, so if it was nicked there its someone I work with. I parked up in town long enough to buy some lunch - lots of school kids about then. If not there then it was in my village last night and I didn't notice this morning
blx
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I got sorted thanks Dunc - I bought a short rubber one : http://forums.lr4x4.com/link
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All suggestions gratefully welcomed.
My friend posted a picture of his truck after he'd replaced the floor on here..... you can see where he mounted his cb ...... just on the roof in the middle: Seems to work very well...
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Would you remember under hypnosis Dave?
3....... 2....... 1.......
you're under!
Now please complete the following sentence:
"I started to strip my H14W by removing the ......."
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I think ABS and traction control cause problems in some ways.
People who are used to them and then drive a 4x4 without them - suddenly realise how much work they do without them necessarily being aware of it.
And some people who have them have no idea what it all does whatsoever! ('What is that juddering on the brake?"). So when they reach the limit of its ability its a HUGE suprise.
I guess both those types of people also at the same time find out just how much momentum a big 4x4 generates!
I followed someone up a single track twisty road with ice on a lot of the corners - I took it easy and had loads of under-steer as the front end slid into the corners. They just left me for dead with their wheels doing all sorts of clever things! I bet from having glimpsed their casual demeanour they had no idea what their car was having to do to cope with their driving.
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[replaces clothes]
Thanks guys.
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and D send myself into Debt!
I'll confirm there is nothing really wrong with it before I commit to paying for a rebuild. If it had just been parts and my time I'd have done it - but I can't run to the expense of paying a professional for it at the moment.
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I'd have to get A from Superwinch or here? and B would involve troubling my engineer friends....
So perhaps just flush it out, new gasket, fresh oil and mask it up to paint it then!
My free spool lever is as stiff has hell - with the unit not having been used for a while, so hopefully it'll free up with use.
Thanks for the reply Nige.
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I sent them a few emails with no reply - so I guess the next step is to try and ring them.
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How does Waxoyl stand up to steam cleaning?
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They do fit along the wheel boxes - it is a very tight fit though. On mine it would only fit one way....
give it another go?
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I have Ralph!
I took the end cover off and the bolts around the drive shaft - creating no extra movement nor revealing any more obvious bolts. I thought the worm gear might pull out so that the main shaft and gear would pull out through the cover .... but not movement or clear place to drift it out.
There are two grub screws holding the fitting onto the end of the drive shaft but they are starting to round inside - and it looks like it won't make any difference to removing that shaft.
I've searched for the info - but whilst I know folk on here have them I can't find anything.
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How tight is it?
beyond grease and a hammer tight?
have you measured it and compared it to your old one?
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I'm a new owner and it need stripping and servicing .......
How do I take it to bits!
Everything is a bit seized on it - I thought from the diagram that releasing the tie bar would enable the whole lot to slide apart - but it isn't. There is a bit of movement when you apply a bit of leverage between the drum and the body - but I don't want to damage the seal there.
Without a manual and an obvious order to strip it I don't want to mistake stubbornness to move with shouldn't move! and damage anything.
So if someone could just get me started please?
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I have an apple and it only runs on windows.... so I'm a bit stuck on that front.
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Just found out what this is:
Its the headlight levelling switch - two switched lives (red/orange) - one earth (black) - and one 'I know not what' (blue/yellow).
Should come in Handy!
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Thanks guys! I have a haynes manual with its wiring diagrams - but it doesn't show many of what would be extras. It does have the headlight leveling and the audio circuits - but no front fogs or spots or anything else like that.
So any help gratefully appreciated!
Just been out and took some pics now - found two more unused connections behind the headlight:
This is the one I was referring to:
also found this one on the end of a large loom, all taped up:
and this little black one, which is perhaps the headlight leveling you described?
That small white block connector I posted earlier - is it definitely the old hifi one?
This is the back of my radio:
The colours match all of those that would normally go into that big LR 13 pin one I've iso adapters for....?
Could anyone look in Rave and post up a diagram for front fogs or spots please?
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Mud do a nice one:
http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/MUD_centre_panel.shtml
Not Carling switches but a match for the standard style. Though there are some slightly more bling illuminated ones...
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I swapped the switches round last night on the little centre console - so that my phone charger doesn't get in the way in 4th or 5th and so that I don't have to lean over to clean the back window....
and there is an unused block connector on the loom behind there..... anyone shed any light on what its for?
I've also noticed one behind the headlights .... is that for front fog lamps?
Anyone who wants to know how easy it is to swap them around - I've put pictres up in one of my albums: Link to first pic
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So I'd use that as the switch for the light -
on all the time, off all the time, or switched by the reverse circuit?
Sounds ideal
can you point me where to get a good one? ebay? cpc?
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Marcus - I'm just running it without at this point! I'll fit the electric one in the summer.
So far my experience has been that the engine is totally over cooled and is currently being easily controlled by the stat and normal airflow.
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How would you wire one up to work with the reverse lamp as well as be able to work independantly? Will it take two feeds or would you need to do something tricky?
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LOL!
What happened in that linked thread? Did the guy succeed in importing the landy?
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I have Teng ones - they've proved very robust and good value.
H14W help
in International Forum
Posted
You're my hero!
Thank you so much.
That lot should go in the tech archive...