gonewestnz

Hi guys and girls, My 90 is a petrol V8 and. Having recently moved to NE Scotland from sunny NZ was thinking a pre heater would be good for me and my land rover as winter draws round. I have looked at webasto thermo top c and like the idea of the engine being warmed up in the early hours, I realise I will need a separate fuel tank for diesel. I also see eberspacher do heaters but mostly ones like the Airtronic that just heat the interior( which would be nice). I see people on here suggesting using an oil radiator plugged into the mains to warm the interior and defrost the windows which suggest an Airtronic would be an expensive all but second hand option. What recommendations do you have Thanks G

Just to be sure before I wire in my wireless receiver does this look correct

My series 11a and defender 110CSW V8 that I owned had bonnet mounted spare wheels never showed any signs of denting. The biggest issue was lifting the bonnet with the wheel on and removing the wheel from a bonnet is not as easy as lifting it off a back door as I'm sure most on here know. Anyway a little off topic.

Yes adventure top is a 25% upgrade so probably a good general upgrade but as stated by JST above and Gigglepin themselves the advantage of the pro top is that ratios can be altered depending on the weight of the vehicle and the terrain it is tackling.

A good point and one I had planned to ask cage builder to include with cage. PP cages include harness bars which I like as gets the harness at the best height and angle for a safe fit . Not sure how much competition I'm going to do but the most robust cage I have seen is PP's FIA cage it looks very solid and a work of art.

Ben at Gigglepin is digging me out a second hand top housing gear so I can get winch back together and will give me more time to look at if adventure top is suitable or if I need to save up for a pro one.

Jackmac yes that's the cage Christine at NOR says they have applied for MSA approval and I like for the fact you retain rear load space.

Thanks Todd good to see some photos and switch icons could be useful. I'm putting a fuse in the switch line as per the Albright wiring diagram would a 10amp continuous fuse with a 20amp max load be suitable or is this a bit big? Graham

Oh and the main winch power lead is a David bower one with big on off switch on passenger seat box.

Ok thanks guys think I'll go for an on-off toggle switch with "flip up aircraft cover" and a mom-off-mom to power winch in and out. The Gigglepin free spool came with flip up aircraft cover switch so i will fit that also. As for location I'll put them somewhere on my centre console near to my ARB switches which sit just behind the auto leaver as don't want to be stretching for them at a key moment. I would say I am mechanically minded not electrically minded so all this advice gratefully received.

Ok thanks that's help full

Is anyone making 10 spline HD axles these days, I'm running ARB diffs so am stuck with 10 spline axles.

I suspect original heavy bonnet is to support spare wheel mounting option when the td5 was produced I guess the bean counters at LR saw an opportunity to save some material cost as the fashion for bonnet mounted spare had diminished and so they could lighten the construction.

I've found Christine at NOR answers my emails in a timlely manner they appear to be striving hard to get the business back to full strength. Yes Jacmac my roof shows signs of some close encounters with trees and steep banks that would have been avoided with a full external cage which is why I was looking at this option. Do you have any pictures of the cage you have fitted? It looks like a rear internal hoop with cross and rear braces and full external would meet my needs but that sounds like it would be very heavy and expensive and the price will just escalate with lighter tubing. The original reason I looked at converting to a truck cab was cab external cage is cheaper and with no roof at back to hit solves that issue and lots of folk make MSA truck cab cages. Also truck cab would reduce the centre of gravity slightly? One comment I had from a land rover friend was that removing the CSW roof and putting a truck cab on would significantly reduce the weight over the back axle thus reducing downward pressure and rear traction off road particularly when climbing or descending steep slopes.I was intrigued by this theory but questioned what about the successful winch challenge vehicles with truck cabs or with tray backs and pointed to the fact any high up roof weight is not so good on side slopes. I begged to differ but to coincide the rules of physics are why a cage is a good idea.

What is preferred set up for winch control switches on the dash/interior. An on/off and a mom/off/mom or two off/mom one for wind in and the other for spool out ? Pros and cons ? Any one got a wiring diagram I'm looking at hard wiring my 8274 and also thinking of getting a remote and doing away with the wired winch controller thoughts? Any recommendations for remotes some eBay ones look a bit cheap?

Yes Jackmac that's my understanding of the rules too but North off road say they are in process of getting approval so will have to wait and see if they can work it out but I have my doubts. Muddy not sure removable stays would be practical or even MSA certifiable perhaps someone could tell us. Looks like I'll be going for a PP internal external although I see they also have an option for full internal with an additional external front hoop but that may just be OTT.

Is this now red and featured in LRO this month?

After another chat with Ben at Gigglepin I am happy with the rattle so bottom of winch all buttoned up. Now the top housing rebuild is turning into a mission so looks like another week until all is finished. The snap ring that secures the roller bearing into the gear is so old it appears to be fused to the gear. Have tried using a pick set,junior hacksaw punches and a few swear words. Also soaked it in WD40 for 48 hours. Ben is coming to the rescue once again and is looking for a second hand one to tie me over until I decide which twin motor set up to go for adventure series or pro series and have saved up some pocket money for it.

An old post but a new question/observation I would like a full external cage for my 90CSW but it doesn't appear any of these cages meet MSA standards. I have been speaking to Kim @ PP cages and Christine at North off road. Apparently North off-road do a full external cage with an internal cross that they are trying to get approved by MSA and the only other option is to go for a very nice PP Internal rear external front cage or full internal but the trade off for no room in the back is a bit of a big ask for my use. The Whitbread full external looks good but again apparently it is not MSA regs. Safety devices replied saying none of their cages are MSA certified and asked why I needed it! I was a bit taken aback by this comment as I want to get a cage for any eventuality I am likely to need so makes sense to go for MSA one. I did consider converting to a truck cab but prefer the utility of the full body although as stated this will be compromised with internal MSA cage. Are there any full external cages that I haven't considered that are MSA approved. Being based in NE Scotland I am going to have to travel to get a cage sorted it seams though. I have spoken to portal rover in Inverness who are also looking for a full external option for me but don't hold much hope.

Another thought what top housing ratios do the challenge guys typically run in their pro top housings as if they habitually use 25% then The cheaper adventure housing may be worth a serious consideration

I am interested in this information too as I am not sure where to go as far as competing but have upgraded my 8274 with the nice giggle pin parts and was going to stick with a standard top housing for the time being but as I am having issues with the old top housing gears I am now deciding wether to get standard, Gigglepin updated gears or go for adventure top that has up rated gears. Would be good to here from people who have used the adventure top. The 'flamin' inline motor mount appears very popular in Australia winch challenges and is cheaper option but how it compares for speed and strength with GP is a good question too.

Hi Jackmac after about the sixth attempt without grease I gave in and used a minimal amount to hold them in position again after about another five attempts I got it to go together and bolted it up. However as it has taken me a couple of weeks to disassemble the winch, it is a 1984 one and appears to have never been serviced , I couldn't remember if the break assembly had a rattle or not and it was so corroded it probably didn't. Graham

Hi guys I am in the process of rebuilding my 8274 and have spent a greater part of today trying to reassemble the brake after adding a Gigglepin main shaft. I have had a devil of a job getting the brake together without the ball bearings moving but finally have it all buttoned up. It appears all good however I can here a slight bearing rattle when I shake the assembly is this normal or is it likely one of the ball bearings has somehow moved to where it shouldn't be?