bodumatau

tired of my clunky LT77 I bought a R380 from Ashcroft and will be fitting it next week. Dave told me I "might have to modify my seat box" but didn't shed any further light on the topic.... any of you out there that have done this before? any tips or things i should watch out for.? how is the best way to get the box in? middle seat cover and tunnel out.. and a block of timber to pull off in the cab? any tips will help here my box of goodies from Ashcroft!

Hello all I am busy planning my megasquirt installation on my 3.5 efi, my current air filter setup is a PROPER bodge. with a flatbar bent homemade bracket coming off the firewall and barely missing the brake lines then barely missing the fuel lines to then barely hold the air filter up so with Nige's setup I can get rid of the flapper (probably make a good boat anchor) AFM, which is currently mounted to the back of the V8 with a flatbar bracket off one of the bell housing bolts. my landy is a LHD so I have the brake servo limiting my space on vehicle left of the engine. so my idea is to put a 90 elbow off the plenum, then the AFM from Nige, then another 90 elbow to the air filter mounted at the back of the V8 does anyone have pictures or know the correct bracket I need to mount the air filter to the back of the V8? (don't the carb V8's have their air filter at the back? here a pic of my current bodge setup. and here what I would like to do any ideas or tips would be welcome

brackets might go inside the bumper, hence not matching to compensate for the thickness of the bumper steel between. if you just bolt it thru the bumper the thin bumper steel will deform as soon as load is put on it (some clever attaches a tow strap to the top of your A-frame coz then he doesn't have to bend down..... don't laugh... have seen it done and then wonder "why it broke") so anything that works on your bumper will always need some sort of load spreader on the bolts.

No idea on the price studmuffin, only know one thing.. Once the oil is in the harness the only way to fix it is to replace the offending wires completely, "cleaning" them only delays the inevitable.

What's the job of the little one way valve thingy in the thermostat ? Is it to bleed air out of the system? That why it needs to be at the top?

Hey rob, thanks for the answer, makes sense, methinks the rigidity of the whole system is my first problem, I have the old "hanging bolt" with Land Rover pipe clamp system and it is really stiff once all bolted up, not anywhere nearly as swingy as a td5 for example. It is often (as you so correctly point out) not the primary problem but the secondary affects that cause the primary problem to keep coming up. I have wrapped also wrapped my downpipes and Y junction with exhaust tape to keep heat off my starter, gearbox and trf case, this seems to work very well but I think the downside is that much greater heat differences will occur as the pipes stay hot inside their wrapping. I need to pull my Y junction soon anyway to weld in a lambda sensor ( bought myself a mega squirt system from Hybrid from Hell) So that will give me the opportunity to have all the bits in my hand and try solve the problem. Rob, I am based in the south of Germany in a village called Heidenheim, sadly very far away from the landy centre of the world

Longest trip I have done WITHOUT refuel is a tad over 2000km ( this was part of a 5000km+) safari I did around Botswana and Namibia with my wife and 2 kids, at the time 1 and 2 years old in my 143 inch double cab (yes you read right 143 inch). The vehicle has 2 long range tanks of 125 and 60 litres plus I had a few jerry cans, we explored the North Western rivers and national parks of Namibia, staying off the tourii routes, mostly on dirt tracks. Not one breakdown except for a few flat tyres ( not classified as a breakdown in Namibia, rather quite normal ), on some sections we never saw another vehicle for more than a week.... It was great!!

Hello fellow landrovites I have a RR efi V8 in my 110 (twin downpipes) and I can't seem to get the push in joins to the Y piece to stay sealed, have now driven less than 1000km and for the third time they are leaking. Have tried good old grey gun gum with standard pipe clamps, then when that leakd I used the White exhaust paste with 75mm wide "joiner" clamps, worked fine while temp stayed normal but took my landy out for a short run a few days ago and the minis 10 degrees was just too much on startup and exhaust is leaking again . I am now seriously considering welding the pipes in situ and then dropping the cross member if I need to take them out again, anyone have a better fix? Rgds Heiko

Thanks all, These tips will certainly make my life easier

thanks Guys, it is indeed the little tips that make it all easier. will post again when I get round to doing it.... at -10 in my garage it is not much fun at the moment..... :-(

nice job andy!! so when you coming by to do my 110?

greetings all.. I feel a little silly asking this but can anyone give me some tips how best to remove a defender dash completely. I have a 1983 110 V8 which I am busy restoring and need to re-cover my dash top and bottom (some EEJET covered it with porno beige pseudo leather at some point..) I would like to reposition my steering wheel a little (I have the old V8 wheel and keep smacking my big mits on the window locking wheel) I need to have complete access to my wiring loom as my current one is........ "creative" any tips on where to start, what NOT to do, what I should try and fix when it is all open. any info would be apreciated thanks Heiko

Thanks Souster and retroanaconda! Rgds Heiko

If you want your bumperettes to work hard don't forget to "tube" the inside of the rear chassis box when you put your bolts thru. Otherwise it will just compress and your bumperettes will be forever loose. Simply measure the inside of the box at the bolt points (simple enough to measure with a vernier) then take a few mm off so you don't struggle to get them in, 20mm sqr tube does the job fine. Land rovers solution of putting a few load spreading plates on the nut side only works if whatever is mounted is deco only...

Did disconnecting the plenum heating lead to any noticeable power gain? Theoretically it should as cooler air is better but how much can such a little surface heat the thousands of litres of air the engine needs?

Just a tip freezer, if your 130 has done any hard work you will find the rear mounting brackets for the load bin are poked, or busy trying to die. A bit of flatbar welded on top of the tow bar extension which bolts into the Ali angle iron edge that runs across the back of your loadbin makes these brackets last a LOT longer. In fact on mine I have built a steel rear bumper which bolts into the mounting holes for the loadbin, put tubes (pieces of 20mm sqr tube ) inside the chassis so it doesn't compress the chassis and loosen when tightening. Then across the top of this steel bumper made new mountings for the loadbin. Works much better.

Hello all, can anyone give me the thread size for the axle breather for the defender? I think it is ¼ inch ? But which thread . Anybody know? Thanks

Greetings All Maybe I being thick but it looks to me like my front axle is too far forward.... Can it be that I have longer radius arms installed? 1983 land rover 110 with an early RR V8 (efi flapper), RR rear axle, old type defender front axle. Looks to me like the axle is about 50mm too far forward ( the bump rubber only mates with half of the bump stop when they touch...) Does anybody have the dimensions of the standard radius arms for the 83 landy 110? Any other advice would also be appreciated as I just bought her recently and still in the rebuild process.