bodumatau

haha, not the loudest, I ended up taking the center piece with the blue box silencer out and putting in a "delta box" silencer, which sounds a bit better but nothing really angry or racy which i don't want anyway, don't want "ze Shermans" on my case (they are a bit finicky about their rules and regs)

yes I considered trying to fiddle the welded downpipes to Y-pipes out but then just took out my crossmember in the end, thank god, made it so much easier, 8 bolts, spread the chassis ever so slightly with a little bottle jack and a piece of lumber as extension and suddenly things are so much more accessible. I was really nervous that my welding would pull the downpipes and they wouldn't fit the cast iron manifolds, but it wasn't a problem. I tacked them into place in situ, then pulled the whole thing off and welded it properly on the bench.

this has happened to my a few times on my Td5's, trick with roadblocks is to hold the brights on with the stalk until the policeman is happy. usually the cheap nasty bits inside the switch burn out.

D8moa, send some pics, much easier to see what is going on, might have some ideas then.

hi guys, sorry it took me while to answer I was busy with my megasquirt installation and not watching this forum. I ordered the following bits for my 110 which is an ex military 2.5NAS with a 3.5 efi flapper in it and the cast iron RRC 4-2 exhaust manifold pipes. Front pipe RH - V8 3.5 EFI non catalyst 1986 to FA399972 NTC1864 - Front pipe LH - V8 3.5 EFI non catalyst 1986 to FA399972 NTC1863 - Manifold gasket (needs 2) ETC4524 Y Pipe NTC4061 - Olive NTC1030 4 pieces center section (silencer) NTC4614 rear section ntc1800 I have read though that others have adapted the front section (after the Y-pipe) to a TD5 rear end and I think I would have done the same knowing what I know now. the Olives come in 2 sizes, can't remember if those above in the list are the big ones or the small ones, big one fits only on the front Y-piece to center section (and probably is ideal to adapt to the TD5 silencer part but not sure) but the flange bolts are then touching the olive. here you can see the crossmember and pipes going over, one the vehicle left side i have about 8-10mm clearance to the crossmember but this seems fine, doesn't rub or buzz. this is the vehicle left side, close but fine this is vehicle right side, bit more clearance. then I had a problem of the Y-piece to downpipes leaking (these were the cheap pipes from paddocks so might be the reason), so I ended up welding them to the Y-Piece and putting in a little expansion joint in front of my silencer, this has solved all the expansion and movement problems.

my V8 mostly runs around without any roof at all so I need it to be proper waterproof so it doesn't end up soaked after a surprise rain shower, till now I have been draping a plastic sheet over the passenger seat to keep water running down the back of the east and into the seatbox, happy to have all the goodies in a waterproof box and plenty of drain holes in the seatbox so the electrics can keep dry.

making progress, almost all the wires for the looms ready, just one question.... maybe someone can help. is there a reason why I cannot connect the PWM orange wire to the Fuel pump relay or the Main relay? both are also fused and ignition reliant to switch on, will the PWM cause interference or draw too much power? getting there, once I know what to do with the PWM wire it all comes out and becomes a loom!!

Thanks FF, one less thing to worry about. slowly the waters are becoming less muddy and the build is making more and more sense.

So I have a question, the Hotwire fuel rail I am putting on has a plug for (I assume) a fuel pressure sensor, but I don't see any connection for this in the megasquirt setup? Have I missed something? Is this plug used at all ?

This really helps break the build down into even smaller steps, have prepped the wires for my injector loom, next are all the looms going to the ECU.... Nige's kit has been a pleasure to work with till now.

Thanks Dave, this option crossed my mind, will it not affect voltages for the ECU having the extra plugs? Or is it negligible. Do you have plugs you would recommend? Right now I am tending toward putting the ECU box under the passenger seat and then pulling the whole thing out if needed with only an extra plug on the wires that join ECU-EDIS

I have another question similar, once you have your waterproof box and solder your plugs on for the ECU, the ECU is forever "trapped" in the box? or are there clever sealing thingy's out there that you can still pull a plug out of? this is a detail that worries me, once the loom is made and the ECU plug on I will never get it out of the vehicle again unless with its waterproof box.

ok thanks gents, nope Nige thought about almost everything else but not the seals. I did ask him but think he is a tad busy. I have found the right crank main seal, so can tick that off. found the o-rings locally, tick that off now just trying to find the valley gasket and the seals for it.

thanks guys, progress report, .. got those 6mm allen bolts off the plenum using the highly sophisticated Land Rover method, hit it with a hammer smartly!!! this worked for 5 of the 6, then I had to use the other good old method, make it hot..... all off now, cleaned up (getting there). still worried about the o-rings and valley seal gaskets if anyone has a part numbers book who could help. ... also found Nigels thread of his rebuild in this section of the forum so will be studying that closely tonight while resting my sore fingers.

thanks Bowie and cheesy. @Bowie, yep I got a whole hotwire top end from Nigel with my kit, so all the hotwire injectors, fuel pressure controllers, start pwm thingy etc. I have taken my Flapper manifold completely off and putting this one on. can I just copy and move this post to the MS section?

I have the flatter box shape and I managed to get my pipes to go over the crossmember so as not to affect clearance.

It has begun, finally, today..... after coaxing my flapper along for almost 2 years while Nigels Megasquirt kit sat on the shelf..... the flapper just kept running just well enough not to warrant the change.... UNTIL this morning when I tried to fix a little problem I had yesterday evening and suddenly nothing worked anymore.....my temperature rose and I suddenly found myself ripping bits out..... so the build has begun!!! since this is the first time to do something like this I might need some help and direction from those of you who have done it before. so far I have put the dumpy dizzy in, easy and satisfying...... got my radiator out, engine wiring harness out, flapper plenum and bits off, ready to put on the hotwire top end Nigel sent me.... now I need some help: 1. can someone give me the proper part number for a composite valley gasket (LKJ500020?) and the seals for it? I thought I ordered the right one but a tin one came. are the clamps for the composite the same as for the tin one? 2. can someone tell me if the O-rings for the injectors (they have a green stripe around them) are the ERR7309? 3. I can't seem to get the allen key bolts out of the top of the plenum, can I put a rattle gun on these? will they break? I have tried a little impact screwdriver with a 6mm bit but all I did was break the bit.... 4. following question 3, can you get the injectors out to change the o-rings without taking the plenum off? it looks to me like the fuel pipe ring will obstruct? or am I wrong. 5. routing of the injector wires, the factory puts the wires UNDER the fuel rail, but then you almost can't get the plugs out past the injectors? would you recommend the same? I would rather put them on the outside so it is easier to get the loom out and off if I need to work on it. 6. front crank oil seal on the 3.5 V8? ERR1632? is this the correct part? (24D serial number engine)

Um? 1000kg for four wheels? Is this a Smart or A Land Rover rim? The weight is per rim, just as the load rating on a tyre is per tyre. There are no land rovers that weigh less than a 1000kg.....

Sealing the bottom of a Land Rover door is not a good idea, then the water that leaks in through the top can't get out.

but where to find such a crusty one that doesn't end up on the scrap heap cause the crust is a bit thicker than we thought..... not so easy I would also be interested in a bigger V8 if I could be reasonably sure that it was running nicely. what sort of prices are they going for?

@old hand, that is a very good diarrhoea, will try that before swopping to switch.

so a mate of mine had some problem with his 110 that he decided to fix (can't remember exactly what it was) and while he was at it thought he would replace some other bits and bobs, new radiator hoses, new shocks all round, new thermostat, new water pump, give the old girl a bit of a new life, he put it all back together, all worked really well, till suddenly a few months later when the engine suddenly started overheating......and he battled ......he tried air lock, thermostat, water pump, all the tricks, till one day he stripped the whole thing and while he was putting the radiator hose on the workbench a shock absorber bush fell out of the pipe!!!! the very same one he had missed and cursed about when he assembled his fancy new colourful shocks..... it had obviously been in a position that allowed enough water through till a day when it turned and blocked the system just that little bit more and suddenly it all didn't work anymore....

ok sounds good, yes I would leave the original switch in place but it would then rest on the fully on position to keep the flaps open, just the blower then operated by the switch and relay.

Hello fellow landrovites. I have been considering replacing my blower switch with a chrome toggle switch on or under the dash, I never use it at anything but full power and the land rover switch is just not a joyful experience. Is there any reason for me nor to do this? I suppose I will loose the half speed but since I never use it I don't care, anything else?

A 110 won't push a RR Around on an A-Frame unless the speeds you trying at are too high, at a too high speed it won't matter how heavy the towing vehicle is it will be pushed around, but with an A-frame the push will be central and not lopsided. The secret is to start really slowly, I mean really slowly, first gear, using the engine to brake and get a feel for it, then go to second and do the same. You will save a lot of time going down the hill slowly rather than trying to pull two broken vehicles out the ditch. As other members have pointed out the easiest would be a proper vehicle trailer, then you have brakes and no fiddling to try fix towbars etc to the 110