tommobot

Any ideas where to start? Surely you can't go too wrong with new shocks and springs.... also looks like the bushes on the underside are in good nick.. well the ones I can see anyways...

I've recently brought a Defender, with a 2 inch lift, big wide tyres and dislocation cones on the rear axle. It tramlines a bit on bumpy roads, but occasionally it just feels terrible. Utterly terrible. My plan is to fit castor corrected radius arms in the future, but since I don't predominantly use it off road, I think the dislocation cones are a bit overkill, and well, making it awful on the road. I've seen a few people with the cones at the top at the spring, whereas mine are on the axle? To remove them, I've purcahsed some spring retention plates, and new lower spring seat. Is this all I need to remove them, and will this work?

So bit of a bump... I got all the plumbing set up as the images above, with the non pressure cap etc.. and basically overheated again... temperatures rose, stationary or moving. So, plan number 2; I removed the header tank, and ran it as the Series 3 set up with the outlet between the carb tee'd into the top hose as on the images below, again temperature rose, stationary or moving.. I'm thinking now, get rad recored- fit a viscus fan, and hope that this sorts it... The only solution I can think to possibly try a 300ti rad, but again this involves ripping it all apart again/ Other thoughts are that from memory, when I had the defender front end, it had a full width rad with 2 possilby 12 / 14 inch fans, if these fans weren't working it would again, overheat... So I'm wondering possibly i'm not shifting enough air through the rad Thoughts / input again welcome..

Found one from a RRC locally, and got it pretty cheap! How does it kill the engine? - Stop the water pump from working or a knock-on from the lack of cooling?

Managed to have a look this morning, under the rubber capping was a thread as shown below...Yay... So one presumes I can 'just' put one on.. In terms of finding one to fit, do I need to get one specifically for a 3.5 on carbs, or will any for a RV8 (3.9 etc..) fit if anyone knows..

Ah, thanks for the link.. I've found a photo of the water pump.. I guess I can't fit a fan onto it - Anybody familiar with the look of it?

After a bit of advice regarding viscous fans, I've seen lots of threads saying about the removal of the fans but none about actually re-fitting a new one, well to me anyway. I've absoutley no idea about them, I know how they work in theory, but don't really have any practical experience with them. From what I can gather, they appear to fit on a threaded bar on the end of the water pump? There seems to be various types of (3.5 V8) water pumps, some which allow for fan fitting, others which don't. Unfortunately i'm not around the car at the moment, but if for instance my water pump did not allow for fitting of a fan, I assume the only way to rectify this would be to change the entire water pump? So, assuming what I have got so far is correct, what is the actual part that I require. Is is a case of simply threading something on such as : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Viscous-Fan-1994-Range-Rover-3-9-V8-Automatic-/371587807436?hash=item56845bf8cc:g:oFgAAOSwwpdW-67R And then, job sorted? I assume not, as that seems far to simple! Input very much welcome. Further more, another thread I have running here; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=97524&page=2 Basically, I have a V8, series rad, and electric fan infront of rad pushing air through.. I can just about squeeze a electric fan behind the rad to pull air though, but I'm also thinking I could maybe get a viscous fan in there and shift a hell of a lot more air!

Where did you locate the flow from the carbs, the blue one on my photo... I assume thats the new one you've located at the top of the radiator?

Thanks for the replies guys! Lots of good information flying about So, the 'easiest' solution, with what i've got at the moment I guess would be something like this: Blue - hose from carbs to top hose or heater hose Yellow - Rad to header tank Red - Blanking cap on radiator This would mean i'd only need a T junction on the lower hose, alternatively as suggest I could add it into to 1 of the hoses going to the heater unit, with the addition of a 1 way valve... thinking about it, that actually sounds easier? So, does this all sound feasable, sounds ok in my head, input welcome..

Yep, its not my photo, but my engine bay is pretty similar (well in layout anyway!)

That all makes sense to me, the only question, in my mind at least is where to run the pipe from just below the carbs.. As shown on image below, that used to go into base of radiator...

I would be up for doing that, as you say its a proven system.. However, I'm getting slightly confused with the plumbing of all this.. Below is standard setup I believe, the small pipe below the filler cap leads directly to the expansion tap? On the previous setup my engine / rad had flow from the top of the intake manifold to an inlet on the top of the radiator, I can't see where this would now flow if I used the above setup..

So the thinking of putting a non pressure release cap on the rad, and retaining the header tank should work fine then? Well, in theory

I've fitted a fan infront of the rad, theres space behind still just about to squeeze another one in... I thought it may run hotter, however I don't use it for heavy off-roading at all so it should be ok in that regard. My aim was to run it for a few months and see how it goes, if its not working / too hot, I would get the existing rad re-cored.

I'm after some advice on my cooling system for my hybrid. I brought it with a defender front panel (and rad) and have been refiting the series III front panel along with a series II / III radiator. I've read reports of people using this radiator with the V8 and it being ok. My main question revolves around the header tank setup, as seen on the photo below I still have the original header tank, and the series III radiator has a header build in at the top I believe. I've brought a non-pressure release cap, that I was going to put onto the rad and was aiming to keep the original header tank. Is this sensible, any other ways of doing it, any input welcome.. I'm aware that I could remove the header tank entirely, but I would imagine it would be difficult to judge the coolant level in the system without the header tank? Anyways, input welcome.

Looks good! I'm very interested to see the space behind the rad / front of the engine, I assume you've removed the shrouding from the front panel and located the radiator as far forward as possible?

Is it 2 of those filters, or just the one? I'm sort of visualising that it may be 1 either side as the ends that slide out look like they may be each able to hold one of those filters?

I now have sourced one of these, AFAIK the correct V8 airbox etc.. Can't quite visualize what filter should go in here? Should it be one of these?

I had a bit of a play with the idle adjustment last night, but could only get it to idle with the servo plumbed in at silly revs... You could get the idle set perfectly, then give it a rev and the revs wouldn't return back down. Strangley, post adjustment to idle speed, the moment you take the servo hose off it runs perfectly everytime.

Bit of a bump here.. still struggling on with this. Left the project dormant for a while but now back on it. To further add to my confusion, the car is rocking a series 3 bulkhead with series 3 pedal box and servo. The servo previously wasnt working. Brakes are still good, but firm and obviously MOT fail without servo working properly. Theres a vac hose going to I believe the previously refered to open breather at the back of the engine, but when its all connected the revs drop to around 200/300rpm. With a bit of throttle its fine but it barely idles as is. I assume that its that the idle needs adjusting on the carbs (no idea how to do this) an would assume that for some unknown reason the car was setup to run without the servo? Any advice / input welcome

Hmmm i've tried covering the breather at the rear and it kills the engine at idle... Also, to further add to confusion it appears to be running a Jag V12 auto gearbox, not a LT95

Ah excellent, I thought it may be something like that... I'll look at getting a little Ebay micro air filter jobby which must surely be better than leaving it open...

Ah, thanks for the input.. That makes sense.. I'll upload some a bit later, its a Series 2 Hybrid I believe with a RR chassis and obviously a V8...

I've recently purchased a Land running with a V8 on carbs... Problem is I know nothing about carbs at all.... So after a bit of advice / few questions.. I've probably done around 1000miles in it so far, and apart from running out of petrol a few times no issues at all! Every other 3.5 V8 I've seen on Google images however seems to have a different layout of piping entirely. - Firstly, flame traps? As far as I can see it doesnt appear to have any? - There is a small breather towards the back, at the centre on the top of the engine that constantly produces a high pitch whistles when running.... When covered it kills the engine? Should this be connected to something - or even put a small breather filter on top of it? Anything else pointed out that looks a-miss on the photo would be greatly appreciated