tommobot

A bit more info, I have FTC5202. Which as above doesn't fit in with the existing threads/ system. A bit of reading suggests I may need FTC5072(for disco and 300tdi).. or FTC5071 (for series 3/3.5 V8 defender).. I'm running a V8 R380, and the era would suggest it would be a UNF? thread, although I don't think they had r380's so not sure if the throw of the piston would suit..

So I've had another look at this, I had s leak which was my cause of the issue.. I cannot for the life of me get the male thread from any of the existing 200tdi pipework to fit the slave cylinder.. Does anyone know if the thread pitch / size changed between a 200tdi and td5 / V8 / 300tdi slave cylinder..

Is that with a ezzibleed?.. I have one in the shed to be honest, I could give it a try.. The clutch pedal has been pushed down all night so I'll see how its done soon

Nope, no pressure bleeder, just the traditional open nipple, pump pedal, release pedal, close nipple.. check and top up master etc..

The master was previously working with a lt77.. it's now affixed to a R380 but can't see why it would cause issue? I'm still a bit off driving/startup, so I'll try a pin the pedal down for a few days, see what happens..

Yup.. bleed screw at the top.. On the pedal it's probably 60% dead, with the final part maybe acting properly.. I've contemplated adjusting the pedal height but it seems to be behaving incorrectly to start off with..

I'm converting a 200tdi defender to a M52 BMW engine using an adapter plate a V8 bell housing.. It's all together and refitting the hydraulic system.. I've currently still got a 200tdi master pedal, whereas the slave is a 300tdi/V8 /td5 unit to suit the bell housing Come to bleed and getting very little feel.. I'm now it's best to replace both, but could the reason for no feel be the cross comparability of the items.. I'm thinking I should get a 300tdi master, though would this fit on the 200tdi pedal box.. I believe it would? Anyone able to confirm or any other input welcome!

Can someone please confirm the thread sizes on the outlet / inlet on the unit on a 3 bolt steering box. I believe this may be imperial sized, whereas the 4 bolt is metric. I'm realabily informed that the metric sizes on a 4 bolt are a M14 x1.5 thread and M16. This is to provide an adapter for a an-6 thread, but I'd image I may struggle to find an imperial to an-6.. Many thanks for any help!

I'm eyeing up ideas for my 110 CSw Long term I'd like it to be petrol and LPG, while not impacting the internal space. I'd be happy to replace the main rear tank with a sizeable LPG unit. This then leaves the petrol to be housed. I see britpart offer a reserve tank, that sits in the rear wing.. it looks like this is only as a top up to the main and at face value has no provision for a fuel pump. Any ideas or input welcome.. Thanks

I had very similar in my 110. Ultimately it's down to the overhang on the rear wheel.. came to the conclusion the car park can't accommodate for every single variable...

So Mrs tommobot drove the 110 this evening.. Successful!.. not 100% convinced but it was much quieter and nicer to drive, and to be honest it was only down the road for 5minutes but it was a very rutted and off camber downhill road.. Plotting next move now, and getting excited as it looks like a may get away with keeping it! Got a few months to finish off another project and then could start on 110. .. Completely random question, lpg tanks.. are there any off the shelf solutions for underneath the vehicle..?

Very true, I've gone back to 235s with cross contact tyres.. World's apart... Driving is it a pleasure! However, these substantially lighter wheels have now introduced a slight death wobble.. I'll start looking at the pan hard bushes and then the swivels.. The heavier wheels must have been masking the issue.. but a step in the right direction..

Clutch pedal is suprisingly fine... Miles better than the old 200tdi (90) I had previously that was like a boat anchor to engage!

Interesting.. just as I thought. As I said previously, I've put much smaller wheels on it last night, fist proper drive and I honestly can't believe the difference... It feels like an lotus Elise in comparison to be before, but ultimately the main test is Mrs tommobot. She makes a fair point of how are the moms with dogs and kids driving new defenders!? I'll hopefully get her to give it a go this evening and then go from there..

Chassis is decent, bulkhead decent, existing running gear is generally decent...doors are a bit ropey, but aren't they all. I've added about £350 worth of sound proofing to doors, roof , floor, bulkhead, basically everything I could. It was still loud, but admitidly that was mostly my fault but running silly wide wheels.. these have now been replaced by 235s road based tyres, only driven round the block but the difference seems night and day. What actual difference is there in terms of steering between the later models is there? - that was the main area of vagueness that she hates.. I can't see how are complete rebush, new shocks, overhaul etc to get as good as can be cannot be far of a modern defender. Tbh, this one's got an 3 bolt steering box, but was rebuilt in the last year...but still. The fundamental design is surely still the same!? The straight six is a good shout.. I would love the smoothness and refinedness of that but fear electrics are my weakness... Requires more reading..

Thanks for the many replies guys, much appreciated. It's certainly alot to think about..🤔 Let's say a tdci 110 is circa 15k at best.. my 110 is maybe worth 6k. If I threw 5k at mine, complete refresh of steering, bushes, shocks etc.. converted to V8 on lpg and a few other usability upgrades does that put me in a better position than a high mile tdci.. Silly dieselgate has now got diesel particulate on the edge of everyone's tounge (Mrs tommobot).. a car approaching tax exemption, with a petrol engine, that is usable.. oh my.. im arguing with myself.. I honestly think if my current 110, had a 'quiet' V8 and the perceived 'quality' of the interior of a tdci era car she would be happy..

A late Discovery 2, V8 LPG with a manual would almost probably suffice for me, but despite looking I cannot see a late one with a manual box anywhere - They all seem to be auto A freelander doesn't offer the same 'do it all, chuck everything in the back or on top of ' type ownership that I like..

So, the basic jist is, no... their not really words apart as I expected to be fair... A Discovery would be the best way forward as I expected.. She would easily agree to a Discovery 3, but the sheer level of electrics and massive BORK factor is hindering my desire somewhat!

Quick querry, we currently have a old 'one ten' with a 200tdi and a load of aftermarket sound insulation thrown at it.. I love it, its simple and reliable but mrs tommobot hates it... Steerting to vauge, no 'power' and gearbox as sloppy as anything and far to loud (apparently) I've only ever driven a 200tdi's and a V8 RRC hybrid. Is a TD5 era 110, or TDCi comparable to a 'normal' car in anyway shape or form...? Or... Is a Discovery a better bet? - I would love a Discovery 3 but just... The fear....

Was just looking back through old posts. For completeness sake the problem was that 1 of the front wheels was pretty much down to 3mm of tread, the other side was as around 15mm.. May be exaggerating the depths, but the considerable difference on tyre size made braking and bumpy roads interesting. 2 new front tyres and it drove like a 'proper' car! Thanks for the help guys

Am I right in thinking that there is a bolt going into the bracket on the alternator from either side? Would I be not easier to drill out the bolt and drill right through (unless it already is) and just put 1 longer bolt and nut on the alternator as the pivot point and the tensioner / adjuster bar as the other fixing? Apologies if this is how it should be anyway! haha 😃

Is it possible to keep the PS pump connected when removing the bracket or does it need disconnecting? I presume this is the bracket in question?

I changed my alternator a few months ago.. Typically one of the (1 of the 2 bolts snapped, or already had snapped (probably the reason why the old alternator failed).. Is there a bracket to which the alternator and power steering fit into which is easily removable? I would need to somehow remove the snapped bolt which i would envisage will be near impossible... (highlighted red on the photo) My initial idea is to take the braket off, and try to drill all the way thgough the bracket and fit 1 long bolt and nut through the alternator? Thoughts please..

How much are you looking for, and is it the full kit?

If you, or anyone else are looking I have a set of the 'cinema' style seats that I'd like to get rid of..