tommobot

True to.. The terminals look pretty clean, and the wiring / clamps all looks fairly new~ish around the battery area. Unfortunatly it has RX8 seats in the front, and access to the positive terminal is tiddle poor at best and getting the battery clamp on there is a massive ball bag of a job to put it polietly. If I can't get it working with the starter earth, then seat will be out and I'll double check the connections on the positive end (Haven't removed any thing on this side as part of clutch change)..

So I charged the battery up last night, and tried to fire it in to life. Nothing. The only way I've managed to get it anywhere near starting is with the jump starter and a negative fixed to side bars on the chasis.. Which makes me again think dodgy earth. I'll dig out jump leads this evening, and as above fit 1 end to starter and other to negative. Do I need to go to a particular location on the starter, i.e the little stud (M8?) that sticks out from the rear that should have the earth on anyway? I hate electrics

I got my jump starter thingy on the battery last night, and the starter kicked in a bit more and tried to turn the engine over. Not enough, but enough to make me think its a battery issue. I measured 12.4 accross the terminals which I thought would be sufficeint, but clearly not ..

I get exactly the same as this sound on turning the key..

I've reattached the battery earth to the joint in the gearbox & to the chassis gearbox mount.. The wire from the battery had 2 earthing points so I think i've got that correct. I'll have a look at the battery cable and starter wiring this evening, the little stud at the rear of the starter does not need anything fixing to it then?

I've just done a clutch change on my 200tdi defender, don't remember removing an earth from the starter, but it clicks when turn the key and battery seems ok. Haven't tried hitting it with a stick yet.. Haynes manual suggests starter should be earthed to engine block? - some internet reading says this was not present to start with...? Never had any probelms starting pre clutch change. Since photobucket has shafted the interweb, does anyone have a photo of this area, as I've had a quick look but couldn't see any loose wires in the area.

Excellent! Thanks for the advise! Just noticed your only just down the road from me, I'm in Wilmcote..

Mmmmm from further reading that seems more sensible.... Engine crane to be ordered shortly

Having a look online, it appears that with an engine crane taking the gearbox, transfer & engine out as one with the front radiator out the way may be the easiest / least painful option.. This will be undertaken on the drive and I really don't fancy a couple of us trying to lever the transferbox / gearbox down on a jack, and then trying to realign underneath the car.

Surely if i've taken the props off, linkages off etc.. to remove the transfer box then its not 'that much' more work to change the clutch? Or is it?

Currently thinking replacing clutch as and S/H transferbox. Clutch has always been a bit 'juddery', so if the transferbox is coming off it seems fairly sensible to do the clutch aswell... And there was me hoping it was just the output shaft

The noise got worse.. Popped to LR garage to get parts, on way back very loud bangs from geartrain.. stopped.. investigated.. Carried on slowly, completely a ok again.. 5 mins later, more bangs, barely moves, almost like handbrake is on. Took off rear prop, even worse.. There also appears to be a HUGE crack with fresh oil around transfer box.. Sat waiting for AA..?

Noise has got considerably worse.. Its constant now, sounds like a fax machine, a constant on off grinding. In all gears, underload which vanishes when clutch depressed. Thinking transfer box output shaft again..

I got some of these a few years ago..about £50.. https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Performance-52-189-Reinforced-Extension/dp/B00029X0ZG Managed to get Free shipping from USA through amazon, and got a £12 refund due to reduced export fees

So I've taken the rear prop off and taken for a quick spin.. Normally the clutch judders a bit sometimes, but with the rear prop off it was crazy and super rattly ?.. Is that normal.. To be fair it was ok when under load from engine.. Anyways, noise appears to have vanished, so thinking rear diff is the culprit.. its also got a wee leak beneath

Ah excellent, is it 'safe' for speeds upto 50~ish? The whine mainly occurs in 3rd and 4th gears...

Am I right in thinking I can remove the front prop, and engage diff lock to have 2wd only, or is that for rear prop? Either way, I assume that would be a fairly certain way to dianose if it were one of the diffs?

My 90 seems to have developed a whine, not all the time that seems to be related to when lifting off / coasting... Most of what I could find was stating about whining under load, ratther than when coasting.. Generally underload it seems fine, normal, no noise at all. I would suggest the best way to describe the noise is that it sounds like the overdrive being engaged in a older landy when coasting / freewheeling. It doenst do it with the clutch depressed etc.. I've had a looksies online, suggestions it could be the output shaft. I'll get the UJ's greased up and check the diff oil levels. Any suggestions welcome Its a 90 defender with a 200tdi

I've had a look at the pedal and there doesn't seem to be an indent on the pedal.. i could try without the spring, I would imagine it wouldn't pop back though. I assume it's just a case of bolt in, attach pipings, top up and bleed..

I've a 200tdi with an awfully heavy clutch pedal. I've looked online and it suggests that is a pedal \ spring modification for the td5 pedal. As per: https://thegippo.wordpress.com/2014/10/18/td5-clutch-pedal-mod/ I've looked around a fair bit and it appears that these pedals have a little indent on the back for the spring to sit.. I assume if I don't have this on my 200tdi pedal then I can't do the mod... A few people have said they've done it on 300/200tdi's... Any input welcome...

Ok, this all sounds fairly good advice. I guess if I drop it down aswell, then there is no need Castor corrected radius arms either; massive benifit. So, if I got myself a set of front shock turrets, new standard height springs I would be able to retain the shock absorbers and the end result would be about a standard ride height?

Should be a few photos in the below link... https://goo.gl/photos/uquTWMTPqZgDvjiP6 Also, it probably doesn't help that the rear appears to be sitting higher than the front... I guess it just feels a vague and wandery on the road which isn't great..

You'll have to excuse my ignorance, but the mounts? I assume you mean the shock mounts?

I think there about 33... Good call about the brake pipe, I have never noticed that before! So I think it has a 2inch lift all round, with orange unbranded / unstickered shocks that I assume are 'britpart cellular dynamic rear shock absorber plus 2 inch' If I was to remove the 2inch springs, and return to a standard height, would I need to fitting standard height dampers as well?

Predominantly on road driving, with occasional offroading. I know the big tyres are useless, and make it worse on road, but I have a mental age of about 5 and I think they look good.